@hank
Don’t know exactly what you mean
Could be the Flashlight User Interfaces Cheatsheets
from CRX
I would ask CRX
otherwise the sheet included is under http://bit.ly/narsil-cs
And Tom’s google drive
Got mine and have a few issues.
First it is super dirty. 10 q-tips just to clean the positive contact.
Second one of the driver screws is cross-threaded and stripped. It’s not coming out without a drill.
Lastly. It may just be me… But turning off the indicator led in the switch takes a miracle of timing. Takes a good dozen tries to get it off.
Nothing catastrophic, but that screw has me super annoyed.
Is there a way to have the button led always on? Even when the light is running?
I managed to get my unbalanced LEDs ‘balanced’ by using a fine tip black permanent marker!
I placed a small black dot on the LED which dims the light just enough to make it appear just as bright as the LED with the lowest intensity.
Screw on the switch cover and it looks perfect!
Should this be fixed by the second/third batches? I’m thinking about canceling my orders
Joechina, thanks, both those sources are PDF files (images)
Try enlarging either of them in sections to make readable pages — the font gets fuzzy.
No big deal. Just wondered if whatever document was saved to PDF is available in original wordprocessing file form, to enlarge the font size.
No need to cancel your order, it should be fixed for the next batch
This is me Mike, you can image that the real smart guys are way to busy to keep up with the thread so I just gave a little info that stuck, DEL is the one with the knowledge but I don’t see him chime in here soon, I am just very glad and grateful he still helps in getting the proper parts.
Can you elaborate a little?
Some have found the click to turn off taking a split second too long does not register as click for off but click hold to ramp down a nudge. Could that be it here?
Glad Joechina helped put here, thanks! Of course I know what DOA means, would be rather stange to be talking about tests to avoid DOA if not knowing what it means 
Hmm yes screws are addressed from now on should be good.
Make a slot with dremel to use a big flathead? Dang I hope you get it out. This is the first real screw issue preventing normal modding (this must be a BLF term) and no inline with the aim. Argh will add it to the OP, thanks for the pic, that helps a lot.
Hmm not on PC, see above for the links of Joechina, it should be there under settings for indictor led.
Hahaha a true super fast “fix”
Can you specify “this”?
About all issues found, yes of course it is the aim to make sure they don’t happen again.
Result ! And now you have dimmer overall switch, which is desirable to many.
By this, I mean all current issues… My modding skill set is limited but expanding. Also I appreciate all the hard work that went into this design and I understand the laws of fine tuning
Well it is the idea to smoothen all issues before getting the rest shipped.
Haven’t updated the list of people having issues yet but each one is one to many.
It seems 2, with 100 doing a nice amount of lumens out the front in a safe way.
I don't think you understand here - the resistor value of 15K was always correct, the problem was they switched SW LED's to a different source. If they go back to the LED's used in the prototypes, the output will be less bright and better, post #13569 here shows the difference.
If they split out the circuit to one resistor per LED, then using two 30K's is the same as using one 15K.
I still don’t know which of the documentationS you want.
- Advanced Notes and Usage document for the Q8 NarsilM v1.0. Please find it in both docx and PDF format in the BLF Q8 google drive share here .
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1IxYZuk4DjcT09aME82VzQ3T2c - Under the same google drive is NarsilM reference for the Q8
- The normal NarsilM stuff (not Q8) is this Googledrive https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1IxYZuk4DjcQWhOOGhTMExCNjg
- NarsilM Cheat Sheet is under http://bit.ly/narsil-cs
All docs are PDF, Toms stuff is also doc.
The cheat sheet is a missused table and in 100% view cells are overlapping, so no WYSIWYG. The only way to see it completely is a PDF viewer.
He Joechina, did you see the cheat sheet in the tailcap in Lexels review, it made me smile big time, you must be even happier, thanks for making it!
Good job, lol, that’s how you put the ‘Budget’ back in Budget Light Forum.
I’ve got the Q8 for two days. Perfect condition, works flawlessly, beautiful workmanship. The menu is not easy, you can slowly open a new thread just for the menu issue.
Thank you guys for your hard work! It was worth it!
I should have made this a configuration option. I suppose you could re-wire the one wire from the driver to the switch to come from a power pad rather than from the MCU pin #3, but I don't know enough to recommend how to do that - not sure about voltage from Batt+ vs. the MCU, maybe a higher resistor should be used, dunno.
yea, i saw it and smiled too.
If you rotate the switch assembly 90 degrees with the brightest above the switch it is symmetrical again.
A Q8 showed up yesterday. No faults! No driver stripped screws, LEDs centered, SW led same brightness…even the tube is indexed and lined up. Works perfect out of the box. If I didn’t know I would say they have already adapted. Great light!! No mods for this one.