Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

[quote]
[/Some have found the click to turn off taking a split second too long does not register as click for off but click hold to ramp down a nudge. Could that be it here?quote]

1. I believe my problem with turn off is mostly me. I have other side switch / e-switch lights I use daily. They go off even if I press too slow or long. (Olight S15) This Q8 does not like having the switch held down even a tiny bit longer than a quick, snappy click.

2. That said there is still the occasional time that the SW LED’s do not illuminate after the light is turned off. Turning the light back on and then off pretty much always seems to correct that. But that on and then off again can not be done too quickly. It seems like if the LED is still in the process of blinking out the 1 or 2 blinks to indicate channel, then the SW LED will not come on in the standby mode as designed. It is supposed to do that, IIRC. :person_facepalming:

I can live with #1, the way the switch likes very short clicks. And #2 is okay.

3. Oddly enough the SW LED’s are now very close to being the same brightness, but both very slightly lower than the other Q8 I have. Any thoughts on that?

Maybe it’s only the first couple dozen they assembled imperfectly until they got the hang of assembling this particular set of hardware. Looking forward to powering mine up when it arrives hopefully within the next week or so.

Ditto. I tried to explain but in many more words.

[quote=MtnDon]

sigh, yeah this has faulty switch assembly written all over. Can you show the solder joints? Or do you see anything odd?
Added to the OP.

Hey, are Thorefire including their “Happy ?” card in the boxes ?

It always brings a smile to me, and I haven’t been disappointed yet.

sigh, yeah this has faulty switch assembly written all over. Can you show the solder joints? Or do you see anything odd?
Added to the OP.
[/quote]

Maybe some initial burn-in of the brighter LED (probably taking most of the current initially) has now brought it down to a closer match with the dimmer one.

Just a thought.

Hopefully you will now find them stable at that level.

JoeChina, thanks, that https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1IxYZuk4DjcT09aME82VzQ3T2c looks like it will have what I’m looking for, text I don’t have to magnify to read.

Okay, I’ve had this problem before where I halve the resistor value instead of doubling it. In my mind, it seems counterintuitive. I’ll just leave that to the experts since they are switching to different leds for the new switch pads.

For those folks that have the current leds and want to try fixing it themselves, Amplificus swapped his 15k resistor with a 10k and his leds started working. Parasitic drain went from 135uA to 155uA, so barely a change. :+1:

In regards to switching the led wire from the mcu leg to a constant power source so the light stays on all the time, yes there is a difference in voltage. The mcu feds about 2.1v to the switch leds. Powering them from the battery means they will see 4.2v. So a bigger resistor might be needed to keep the leds from getting too bright. We might have to wait for someone electrically minded to try it and see if it works.

Or else just swap to new leds in custom colors as that seems to fix things as well.

How much does the output lumens decrease with usage from fully charged Samsung 18650-30 BT batteries until the voltage protection activates?

Start to 30 sec table

4.19V -> 6000 lumens to 5600 lumens

4.00V -> ?

3.70V -> ?

3.50V -> ?

3.20V -> ?

3.00V -> Start 2500 lumens ??

Edit: I compared the Q8 output at ca 3.10V with my Oligh Mini Intimitator 2800lm (that I 2 years got on sale for 25 dollars). My perception then is that around 3.10V Q8 is around 2500 lumens. Is that expected output at 3.10V?

I just encountered some odd behavior. Switched light on (turned off about 50% brightness). It would ramp down but ramping up it would jump in brightness rather than changing smoothly as button was held and wouldn’t go above about 50. Releasing and pressing button ramped down. At minimum releasing and pressing ramped up to about 50 at which point main leds then switch blinked twice. After unscrewing head and re-screwing head behavior is back to normal. Very strange.

On the plus side, the reflector is the nicest I’ve seen. Absolutely smooth and without rings or dust. Even being slightly out of alignment with emitters (or vice versa) there is no significant distortion of the beam.

edit: After handling this Q8 I think that after the minor defects are resolved this light will be a classic for the style and develop a significant demand and following. Observation: If the first production run had been logoed as BLF Q8A and second revised version as BLF Q8B the logo would have had the winged diamond centered above the switch rather than shifted to the right.

Mine are being made in the second batch… But, I have a few thoughts to throw into the fray. I think I was number 8 on the list… I signed on for an ass kicking light, with the BLF logo and some really cool firmware. To date, it sounds like what was basically deliverer. I did not know until the first pics of it were posted that it had a lighted switch that could tell me something about the mode it was in… That is really cool. Honestly, I will change the switch led color when I get mine as I have never been a fan of green light.

I am really excited and the wait is killing me!!!

Sounds like this has come together pretty well for the level of ask for the group. Thanks all!

I was 37 on the list and ordered #472. I hope my observations help the manufacturer make the next batch an amazing product and that those waiting say it was worth the wait after the revisions are implemented. I count myself fortunate to have the opportunity to help improve it and after all on the list have what they paid for I plan to buy another.

There’s been a few reports of issues with the lights and because this is a forum, it seems to get blown out of proportion. So on a positive note, I’d like to give my report on my light. I ordered one light just a few minutes after receiving the discount code from the Miller. After a week in shipment it arrived early just like everyone else in the US. I have to say, it’s a very nice light.

The good:

- I thought it would be bulky but it isn’t though it is “dense” and hefty.

- The anodization is even all around and the body is well cut with no dents.

- The screws were not stripped in either the head or the tail though show signs of wear (perhaps just a little over-torquing on assembly?). Removing them required a reasonable amount of torque without any risk of stripping the screws. There was a bit of dust in the screw holes in the head but that’s probably due to it tapping into the circuit board. I’ve left it as-is and just wiped it down as I don’t see any issues with it. The driver PCB is seated quite firmly on the shelf.

- In the tail PCB, again, no issues. The thread glue was well placed and used sparingly. I can see why Thorfire uses it though as these screws are the primary contact for the negative terminals of the batteries to the light. If they loosen the light could go intermittent to dead since the tail cap doesn’t apply pressure to the PCB.

- The switch LEDs are evenly lit and work every time. They seem a tad bright but I hope to change them out once I get my pink and blues plus some resistors. I would like a replacement switch board though just in case I botch it with such tiny components but that’s neither here nor there. I was trying to play with it to break it :wink: but nope… works fine every time. If it does fail though, I’ll be sure to post on this thread.

- The lens is clean and the reflectors centered around the LEDs.

- It’s super bright compared to my BLF A6 which is great.

- The Narsil firmware is awesome. I love the ramping. I was initially wanting to switch it to modes just to keep things simple and match my other flashlights but the ramping is very intuitive.

  • The electronic switch has excellent feedback. I love the clicking. The placement is also great compared to a tail switch. I enjoy it more than a physical switch as it requires less pressure.

The meh parts:

- I find that the tailcap’s square edge is quite… well, square. It seems even sharp to a degree.

- The threads in the head felt a bit gritty initially with only a touch of lube. I cleaned it off completely and regreased it and now it seems fine.

- Someone mentioned that in their flashlight the body’s flat spots weren’t aligned perfectly to the head. I honestly didn’t even care until someone mentioned it. ha! Mine was also not aligned so I used some 320 grit wet sandpaper and ground down the tube for a few minutes and now it’s perfect. It just needed about 5 degrees of adjustment.

- The brass ring in the head touching the positive ends of the battery required very little cleaning. I thought it was due to either metal wearing when screwing in the head but that’s not the case. Some Goo Gone and it’s gone.

- I do wish there was some way to attach a lanyard to the tail cap though. A tripod mount in the bottom middle of the light seems like a poor place for a lanyard loop. The flashlight has enough heft in it to warrant some additional insurance to prevent it from slipping out of my hand.

- I don’t think I would use strobe mode much but I am finding it a bit confusing to navigate through. It just seems like I get click happy and end up turning it off half the times. lol Neat though.

  • I know the firmware took a lot of time to program and it truly is awesome but I fear that if I don’t use it for a while though, I’ll forget how to get certain modes etc. This is no different to the half presses or long half presses of the BLF A6 so the cheatsheet that can fit in the tailcap is wonderful. It seems complicated but that’s only because of the limitation of a single switch and no text feedback and its ability to satiate both rampers and moders, bikers, cops and robbers and everyone in between.

JoeChina - Your cheatsheet is truly useful. I printed it out and somehow folded it perfectly so it stays in the tube and doesn’t fall out when I unscrew the tailcap. Thanks for this. I have noticed though that in page 2 under Configuration Settings you’ve got “Set Monnlight Level” when it should be “Set Moonlight Level”. It’s a minor error but I thought you should know.

:+1:

I have not looked inside yet. When I’m back home Monday or Tuesday I will have a look and post what I see.

Hi Piyoman,
I had held back from posting due to the high volume of posts this thread gets, but after reading your post I thought I should share my experience as well. I too ordered soon after receiving the code and received the first of my lights a few days ago(additional lights were ordered later so I will patiently await them). This is a phenomenal light at an incredible price. My unit is working excellent, and although I found it easy to accidentally turn off the LED’s in the switch by mistake, with a little practice it became easy and intuitive. The software is amazing and after studying it for a bit it too has become intuitive. Since I have been around for a number of group design BLF lights, I expected a few hiccups and that there would be a process to follow until all the bugs get worked out. Of course I may be too easy to please as I have two Cometas that after a little bit of soldering, two new wires and a circle of insulation are awesome lights. Thank you to every one on the team who invested their time and energy to bring us a fantastic light in the Q8, at a truly budget light cost. I hope the fixes for the switch and any other issues are solved soon and that people really appreciate the work it has taken, the time sacrifices made to bring this light to fruition at only $40…
I have a fairly good sized collection, but a lot of my BLF lights are the ones that carry a bulk of the burden. It amazes me that lights with so many features can be made at such an affordable price. Thank you and please, continue to amaze with each new light… Giggles is calling my name….

OK, I just encountered the ‘won’t turn off’ bug. Switched light on, ramped to full, ramped down to about 50, released switch, and after a short click it wouldn’t switch off. Tried again, and again with no effect. Unscrewed tube a bit, re-tightened a bit and pressing switch light powered at minimum. Ramped up, then ramped down to about 50 and wouldn’t power off again. Loosened again to break circuit, tightened again and minimum, ramp up and down to about 50% and again unable to switch off.

edit: Click speed is critical. Trying again if click involves switch depressed more than about 1/8 seconds (estimated) it is interpreted as a ramp command resulting in a slight increase or decrease in output.

edit 2: intermittent switch leds. Switched off, no leds. Switched on and off, leds working. On and off, no leds, again, switch leds working. Bounce logic problem?

Maybe the rubber button cover is too squishy and not giving a crisp click?

It feels as firm as the modded button cover on my Chimera with fwd clicky tail - not squishy or prone to compression and very firm with quick response compared to typical covers.