Thanks MtnDon, seems my numbers perfectly match up with yours.
I expected entirely bypassing the tail pcb and going straight from springs to battery tube would be better than going through the contacts from the PCB to the tube. Guess not, but since it works just fine, I’ll leave it as is.
Nice to see good reports.
Some issues are being talked to via PM, will update the OP with the issues later.
Oh gosh, when the first issues popes up I suggested Barry some sort of Q8 Cool Kit with AR coated or ultra clear glass, a metal colored switch retainer ring and switch assembly with different colors to choose from.
Didn’t hear back on it, but it seems we all got a AR coated lens
And as always some don’t like it, sigh. A quick Google search shoes me several hits how to remove AR coatings
Does everything work as it should on the Q8 after a spring bypass? Is there any other reason flashlight manufact. dont do this on stock lights, besides the fact that it adds cost?
Probably, yes. If it has a USB port, it can probably be used for firmware flashing.
We should stick to Narsil in this thread though, and go to other threads for other firmware options. Otherwise it’ll get confusing pretty fast.
I’m happy that the hardware can do off/low/high on the indicator LED though. Given how easy the Q8 is to reflash, it might be a nice mod option for people who want the switch to be less bright. It’s a very small patch, potentially just one line.
Think I posted a few times - I modded a batch of Q8's getting 7,000 to 7,200 lumens at turn on, stock Q8 LED's, batch #1 lights but with all the tweaks, but still used the stock 18 AWG wires. Some suspected our readings, some didn't post their readings thinking they were not correct. Turns out others ended up getting the same #'s once they got their lights and modded them, so now, it's been confirmed many, many times.
My best modded Q8, so far, is 7,340 @start, 6,720 @30 secs, and that's with 70 mm 16 AWG wires and the SIR404DP FET, plus all the usual tweaks, and it's a batch #1 light.