I was about to write something about my blueish 2nd batch Q8 compared to my 1st batch Q8, but couldn’t provide any good pics to go with it.
As this came up now anyway, side by side there is a visible difference in color when light is on and wenn it is off (reflection on the lens).
Will try to get a pic of this next week.
I don’t seek out new threads very often, so I just found out Marshall from Going Gear passed away a couple weeks ago. :cry:
I watched quite a lot of his videos. He seemed like a great guy.
Yeah it is sad, but you probably meant to post it elsewhere…
Haven’t done whitewall hunting, just comparing outside to trees and then I didn’t see it, will check proto, gen 1 and gen 2 today.
No, that’s on purpose.
I wish someone had posted it to a big thread so I would have heard sooner, rather than weeks later.
I put a link so folks can go there to talk about it and to keep this thread on topic.
Ah, yes it was posted and I think there was a topic about Olight doing a special day to help out.
I don’t think anyone got a Q8 with AR coated lens
When you point another flashlight to the lens of the Q8 with an angle of about 45 degrees you can see 2 reflections (each on one side of the Q8 lens):
1st batch Q8:
2nd batch Q8:
Do you see the difference? Looks coated on one side of the lens.
nice pics Mike!
My 2nd batch example…
No bout a doubt it, AR coated…
Does everything work as it should on the Q8 after a spring bypass? Is there any other reason flashlight manufact. dont do this on stock lights, besides the fact that it adds cost?
Is it a safety issue of some kind?
Also, is AR-coating a good or bad thing?
Just asked because my second batch Q8 has regular lens 
Thanks
Probably, yes. If it has a USB port, it can probably be used for firmware flashing.
We should stick to Narsil in this thread though, and go to other threads for other firmware options. Otherwise it’ll get confusing pretty fast.
I’m happy that the hardware can do off/low/high on the indicator LED though. Given how easy the Q8 is to reflash, it might be a nice mod option for people who want the switch to be less bright. It’s a very small patch, potentially just one line.
I just ordered a 4th one with the affiliate link and code originally sent with the PM, both are still working. 
Think I posted a few times - I modded a batch of Q8's getting 7,000 to 7,200 lumens at turn on, stock Q8 LED's, batch #1 lights but with all the tweaks, but still used the stock 18 AWG wires. Some suspected our readings, some didn't post their readings thinking they were not correct. Turns out others ended up getting the same #'s once they got their lights and modded them, so now, it's been confirmed many, many times.
My best modded Q8, so far, is 7,340 @start, 6,720 @30 secs, and that's with 70 mm 16 AWG wires and the SIR404DP FET, plus all the usual tweaks, and it's a batch #1 light.
^
I measured 7,112 (IIRC) at startup on a first batch light.
If I remember the discussion many 1000s of posts ago… The springs act as a sort of fuse. Bypassing them also bypasses that safety.
I wouldn’t mind having an AR coating on my lens. It means a few more % output out the front. Probably would never notice it unless one was pushing the light to it’s limits and had something to compare it to, but still it’s all about light out the front that these were built.
Just as an fyi, I actually did accidentally insert one cell correctly, and one upside down, running only 2 cells for testing. so tightening up the tube, nothing came on, then I saw a stream of smoke rising -- quickly disengaged the threaded body from the head. So the only damage was both springs were shrunk down and the coatings burned off, so I can confirm the springs will act as a fuse, as we've been saying all along. When you bypass the springs, the short will attack the next highest resistance path in the circuit, so not sure what that might be. My method of bypass still uses a small length of tracing on the tail PCB, but if you use braid going directly to the screws, then there is no PCB traces in the circuit. The PCB traces I would think would be the next weak point, but I'm not sure. I've seen burnt up traces from a direct short before.
I better be careful avoid avoiding shorts, then, unless I want to make a pipebomb one of these days.
When you say “With all the tweaks”, which ones are you referring to?
Thanks Tom.
+1
Havent followed this thread closely either. So just like to know.
