Yes already noted and already answered that most of the flood is coming from reflector configuration. Domes make more artifacts and extra throw is a plus. For now, awaiting further testing it is HI.
Nope anodisation will make little difference and IF it makes a differene it will be better.
For the sake of assembly and adaptation of SRK underside adaptations to accomodate wires, we changed 18 to 20 since that is enough for the current. Feel free to add 16 14 12 or anythng you like afterwards, love to see the results!
No, we aim for a good light that can be made withhout cutting corners, so fancy stuff like charging and lighted switch are ditched.
Hmmm maybe we should check to see if a rubber button cover is possible. For now this stays as target.
The contact on the driver needs to be as thick as needed to use buttontop cells with the driver retaining ring. Yes, IDK of that is as thick as your pic but if so then yes it shall be that thick.
See specs and Tom E s answer, yes this is build in the software.
The idea is to make absolutely clear that with the testng before shipment and decent packaging used no drama beause of DOA or problems in transit arrise. PErsonall I do not care if droptest ar done according to a standard or not, I care if the packaging is good enough to make sure everydoby gets a good light for minimum packagng costs, 10 drops from 2 meters seems rather similar to what packages can endure on their way to us. But it is a figure just made up and doable.
After reading hanks link, changed 2 meter to 1 meter, more then the 78cm on that page.
Yes agree. added (packaging skipped while pouring the specs over in a spreadsheet.)
Yeah, I think part of the focus has to be to drop it in several orientations and check each off the list.
We know itās easy to put all the packing around the middle and leave the ends bare and exposed in a thin plastic bag .
Drop that flat on the floor, no problem.
Drop that on the pointy end, problem.
Then you need to make sure the packing used for the test is also the same stuff and packed the same way by maybe an entirely different group of people 1000km away at the cheap shipping shop (sigh).
If people are gonna cheat better make it clear responsibility lays with them.
I kind of want to add if a light is delivered not according to specs, buyer will get a full refund when it can be proven by a unpacking video to make sure the producing party is losing money when cheating but that may seem a bit harsh to start of with and probably make the project harder tonget going.
Nope, you refer to body external anodizing. It will work for Radiation Heat Transfer.
But I meant LED shelf anodizing. Where anodizing acts as an insulator layer due to its lower heat conductivity.
googled briefly:
donāt mind receiving 18-20 or even 22AWG. Feel enough experience to change it to any wire I wish. Just wanna to remind that 90+% mods contains few musthave steps like adding thermalgrease, bypassing springs and using more think wires.
it would cost nothing (maybe up to 10-15 cents) to use think wires by default.
You get me wrong.
I do not ask for lightened switch or its support by FW. Just wonder if it is possible to use (half)transparent plastic, rubber cover, etc as a sidebutton material.
Again - it nor changes anything in flashlight functionality, neither adds any noticeable costs to its price but provides more possibilities for further mods.
Well I there are gonna be artifacts anyway nice geometric flower of light
The HI has a more even beam due to the lack of dome.
Ah I will check the thick integrated shelf of a Uniquefire 1401 to see if it is anodised or not.
I canāt picture how this should not be anodized since I see baths with a whole head dunked in fluid when I picture it. So I think it would mean grind down the shelf a bit afterwards but idk.
The current is divided in four pairs 20 is sufficient for a lot of current at the tail.
And yeah a rubber switch cover (and then why not white?) Should improve waterproofing.
But all SRK are for domed LEDs by default. So HI version will sit lower than original led. Reflector should be modified for HI.
sample from another thread with HI and artifacts (Review: KD C8 XP-L Hi)
Grinding anodizing is not an issue for me. But as you said - we aim for a good light. So lets make it right
Ah yes
Meant is same outer top size so a modders could use a srk reflector for say more or less emitters.
I hope Jos will address this further, being the LED expert.
hankAdded about droptest falling in different angles, the 8 corners, bottom and side hitting the ground first
Hmm would a pill (copper or brass) that screws in not be better? For modding the height from it to the reflector can be tweaked.
I guess no. Contact with body via only side threads is bad for heat transfer. we canāt make pill thick. Imo it should lay on integrated led shelf, both parts polished + thermal grease in between.
The integrated shelf of the UF1401 appears to be anodised (my mental picture seems to be correct.)
And wouldnt a anodised intergrated shelf be better then a threaded pill? So the hassle of getting the ano off of it is that really worth t?
Judging by the many issues with the Cometa GB caused by poor assembly I would guess that getting the assembly right will be as important as getting the design of the light correct which is something that unfortunately will need to be conveyed to whoever is assembling this light .
Even a well designed light will be no good if it is not assembled correctly
I see the description says the compartment will be sized to take the largest of protected batteries. Does that mean protected batteries will be required?
Thanks! Thatās what I thought, but Iām about to place a big battery order and I wanted to make sure I was prepared when this light eventually gets made.
Please don't go crazy with batteries - you will have plenty of time, and there's always risks. For me, I'll exclusively use button top unprotected -- max power, safe to operate in parallel, LVP built in to the driver. I'm using the Samsung 30Q BT's, but would also like to try the SANYO GA BT's for a little less max power, little more runtime, like here: liionwholesale.com-sanyo-ncr18650ga, or here: mtnelectronics.com-sanyo-GA-BT. The LG MJ1 BT's are a little cheaper but I'm seeing better performance specs from the GA's.
I should add, I feel safe going with unprotected, but of course I'll do a visual inspection and put a meter on the light and check for shorts, etc. (maybe access the driver and do some tests) before I drop in 4 fully charged unprotected cells. Lessons learned...
Who knows. Maybe in 6 months they will have Samsung 40R's (4000 mAh, 'R' is higher performing) out and available
