But we have to take just two cells (1 wrong placed) as minimum where 3/1 is the max.
At least I am assuming 2 right and 2 wrong is the same current as 1 / 1 right?
BRB, gonna do something really stupid and dangerous to put this to rest……
Oh man be careful and OUTSIDE!!!
TA? TA? Please say you’re all right! 
Well I survived. So I shorted 2 of the ultra cheap ultrafire cells to each other and interestingly, the current is pretty much additive. With some wire resistance in play I got a reading of 30 amps via my current shunt.
So over 30 amps for sure in a Q8 with basically no resistance.
The cells did get warm during this but nothing extreme in the 5-10 seconds they were shorted. The wire started glowing though and melted through one of the wrappers and thus kept shorting after I wanted to stop, that was interesting.
Overall no harm done besides draining the batteries to ~3.9V (was still reading just under 30 amps at that voltage BTW, the amperage didn’t change much).
So I think that 25 amp fuses and a clear bolded and blatant warning to only use brand name cells is the best compromise.
Ok... I was gonna ask where to send the flowers, hospital or .... 
Flowers? As a prominent BLF member….wouldn’t Texas Ace deserve some kind of Trit Vial bouquet or something? Maybe DB Custom could make it happen???
Sorry…didn’t mean to go on like that….Texas IS all right after all. 
LOL, well I have actually been wanting to short out one of these for awhile just to see what they could do anyways, this was as good of an excuse as I was gonna get lol.
It was a lot less dramatic then I thought it would be honestly, only reason I knew they were shorted at first was the amp reading. After a few seconds the wire started glowing, which was fun. Then when I removed the shunt to break the circuit the wire touched the body of the cell and burnt through the wrapped and started dancing around while mini-sparks flew.
Kinda interesting really, although very surprising as I was not expecting it. So I pulled the cells apart and all was finished. They were mildly warm to touch but still easily holdable.
I would expect nothing less then a bouquet of S2’s in a rainbow of colors shining into the sky with a range of tints.
Go ahead…specify with which mods…etc. We gotta get this right if it’s ever necessary.
TAs the man! Pretested 25A
Nice!
Glad it was interesting and amusing for you 
It wasn’t for me
Well now it is after reading all is well!
Some of them crappy UF cells are tough. I tried to get a few to vent by shoving 12 volts DC at 700 cranking amps, and also shoved 120 volts AC current from a 3000 watt generator into a couple ultrafire cells and they just sat there and went dead & open circuit.
Ah, you were the one that did that test.
Yeah, I am pretty sure that basically all cells now days have some form of internal fuse to keep them from melting down/venting. Seeing as fires from these cells was such a big deal it makes sense.
Maybe the cell manufacturers should just be responsible for this after all anyway.
Question : Why is this light still designed for button top batteries only? Why not solder blob the boards instead of the batteries? I'm pretty sure I'm missing something. I've never had a light where it was an issue, so not sure how this works. Will button tops no longer fit if the board is blobbed? Is solder blobbing not a viable manufacturing technique? Too much variation? Would need some actual button soldered instead? What gives?
BTW: You know I'm going in on this as soon someone says the clock is running out, even though I'm trying to pretend it's not true. The real issue is likely do I go in for 2 or 3. I would prefer something with more throw I think, but as far as I can tell, at twice the price there's nothing like it.
The head screws in and this means the +sides of the cells slide over the driver.
Hence it makes more sense to have the buttons on the cells.
The Palight Boss1 has brass nipples on the driver so it can be done.
However I think no nipples is better in this type of light as is used far more on these type.
A
Hi
Can you put me down for one of these ?
The nipples has little edge and damaging the flat top cells shrink tubing on the side so it’s not safe in the palight boss. I grinded down to a ramp the nipples edges.
But in some Roche M170 versions I saw this contact board part. Why can not we use this one?
You only need to machine down a little of the battery separators fins in the tail and it will can not turn around on batteries.
And don’t forget to put me on the list too :sunglasses:
The BOSS1 is a nasty light for threading together with cells in it. Those bumps makes it feel like something is wrong, plus the driver position must be perfectly aligned in the fully tightened position - could be designed to do so, but the BOSS1 has no fixed position for the driver.
I really like this idea as I do not own any button top batteries.