Good idea - probably could be made to fit pretty much any SRK. Sounds like a good add-on, though I would not trust or recommend them - too prone to quality issues, and adds some resistance. Could probably be printed on a 3D printer, then plug in the brass buttons.
From my, very much, simple testing, I strongly suspect the best setup for performance is to solder the tops of flat tops, either the HG2's or 30Q's. It's been proven in the past the button tops applied by 3rd parties (all of them are) add resistance over flat tops - it's reflected in HKJ's reviews. Differences would be slight and can't be noticed, accept in a light box.
For the non-DIYers, still best to go with button tops.
Yep - this thread is huge, but that's why the new feature of "Search Within Thread" is so handy . No, I still think the adapter is a good idea - puts the brass button where it should be, but for whatever reason, the one for the M170 had problems, and the quality would have to be pretty decent - those brass buttons must have smooth edges on top and be relatively thin on the top because they'll be sliding along the track of the driver with each twist of threading on the tube, and the thicker they are, the more resistance, the more pressure and risk of damage to the driver.
The M170 has a heavy duty contact ring for the batteries, and can take more abuse.
Yes, twice the voltage and one might guess twice the internal resistance. I guess maybe what it proves is the wire resistance dominates. That can be looked up.
Correct, which is the same thing that would happen if you inserted a battery backwards in the Q8. I set it up exactly as it would be int he Q8, except with a piece of ~20 gauge wire instead of the low resistance contacts.
I think it would be great if you set some deadline for interest in the OP. You can extend the deadline at any time as many times as you want (peferably a week before it expires though not the day after), but at least then people know.. ok, I have until x date and then I can check back and decide if needed. That probably wasn't a useful strategy early on, but now that the target is met anyway.
Seeing how little profit the first groupbuy run will bring Thorfire I was indeed thinking they would was t to limit it to a certain amount.
Earlier on we even suggested limiting it to less then 500/so they could sell more with a better profit.
They did not respond to this.
Now I am regularly sending how much people are on the list and if it grows to big they can ask for a stop.
From our point of view the more the better, and since TF does not asks for a stop or limiting quantity we keep it rolling as is.
But for you Flintrock it is 24 hours you wrote you needed this right
Does Narsil have a ‘muggle’ mode set? I was looking for it, but maybe I missed it. I think a mode set with only a few modes and a reduced MAX output would make this a lot better for loaning/gifting.
Edit: Never mind, I looked at the manual, and I think it is mode set #8. I don’t know how I missed it before. Thanks Tom E!
Had a long Skype with Thorfire today, explaining the driver a bit.
Tom. so nice you made those videos, a pic might say a 1000 words, idk how much words a video conveys
I have no problem with soldering. I just thought about others who have.
. No, I still think the adapter is a good idea - puts the brass button where it should be, but for whatever reason, the one for the M170 had problems, and the quality would have to be pretty decent - those brass buttons must have smooth edges on top and be relatively thin on the top because they'll be sliding along the track of the driver with each twist of threading on the tube, and the thicker they are, the more resistance, the more pressure and risk of damage to the driver.
you wrote you needed this right 