Yea, that mode set #8 was added on request. There's no other limitations or restraints associated with that mode set, however. You can still get access to strobes, battery check, etc...
Any updates on this?
As in, if there are, is it possible to update the thread title when there is (with date). And maybe have an updates section in the first post with dates.
It seems there is stuff happening and I sure respect those partaking in making this happen. But there were 140 unread posts when I looked now, way too many to skim through.
Thanks 
Dang, really need to generate a couple more vids with latest updates. Was think'n of at a minimum, was to have a couple lights pre-configured on-hand, then quickly go thru UI scenarios.
Also the audio is important to hear the clicks, etc., or talk out the button presses... Wish I had some vid editing experience...
Ah yeah the tail PCB deserves a topic title change and part in the OP. Tonight 
Spent a lot of posts on batteries, what if's, what we can do in the tail PCB for handling 1 of 4 cells put in backwards, etc. TA did some of that fun testing 
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I posted some test results of protected vs. 30Q BT.s vs LG HG2's, then LG HG2's w/solder blob. Ultimate performance appears to be an HG2 (possibly 30Q as well) with solder blobs., but maybe marginally better. For me personally, I'd treat it like I do any of my DD FET lights - use a 30Q or LG HG2 for top performance and measurements, then use SANYO GA's for real world use 
. GA's run at lower amps and with higher capacity, you get a nice power vs. runtime trade-off. GA's are a rare flat top that has a pretty good bump out on the batt+ contact.
Darn this place. Put me in for 1 for now please.
Hopefully I can restrain myself from making it 2.
Haha flintrock, update op later
Tom, yeah now that is a nice summary
And the vids you made are nice already!
I want one! Add me to this list!
So Tom, are you saying the Sanyo GA’s would work without an added button top? If so, maybe that is the way I would go too.
They worked for me fine in my cheapo SRK I'm using as a proto. You can clearly see the metal tops protrude up, clear of the wrapping on the GA's, but not on every other 18650 flat top I looked at (SONY, Samsung, LG, etc.).
I got 12.6A on the GA flat tops as-is, but I might still try a solder blob on the tops to see if it helps - maybe I'm not getting as much pressure on the driver as the protected or 30Q BT cells.
Thanks for the info.
If I ever get ahold of one of these I’m pretty sure I will enjoy it, even more than my latest offering, the Meteor M43.
Exciting.
Two for me please. Many thanks
Please put me on the list
Hey you weren’t already?
We emailed your cheat sheet yesterday and I just finished writing an email explaining a bit more.
Barry / Thorfire was confused with so many options and they were not clear if we wanted them to choose a mode group and what to do with all the other options.
So a “users can set it up how they like and print the PDF (that will have folding lines in final) to keep in the tail of the light” made it clear.
OP updated, and welcome to BLF!
OP updated and tep title change
Old fashioned quality SRK style flashlight group buy
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Update: Tom says it best
new part.
After another round of debate for the tail PCB Texas Ace has made one.
he says it best:
I just realized the Silk screen needs to be updated to 25A fuses since we decided to go with that. I can make the update or since I am sure that TF will be redoing the layout themselves anyways they can change it then. Whatever you think is best.
Oh yeah
Please update
If I was daring enough to put these parts together I would order them. The idea of this fuse protected tails is highly appealing to change a normal SRK into something to gift with a good charger and protected cells.
As a matter of fact I think I would have these before I start .modding mine so if I make a mistake at the head end all I need is a fuse.
Ok, the final, final version hopefully, minor update to silk screen for 25A fuses and 1210 instead of 1206 fuses. I measured out a SRK tailcap and this board should work in most SRK’s. I uploaded it to Oshpark, like normal it includes the source files and images.
OSHpark Q8 Multi-cell setup tailcap
The Silk screen should be pretty clear. The spring pads are 10mm.
This is the tailcap for the Q8. It is also setup to fit SkyRay kings.
This is a universal tailcap PCB that allows for any cell setup you can think of from 1s4p, 2s2p, 4s1p.
It uses 1210 fuses or 0 ohm jumper resistors to select the cell configuration.
It also has a place for a clicky switch, although it would not work when using it in 2s or 4s mode due to needing the pivot point for the tailcap.
The hole spacing is:
20mm from spring pad to spring pad measured as a square
37.5mm Mounting holes messured diagonally across the center on the board
Center pivot hole is 4mm
1s4p = 4.2v : how it will come from the factory, only one side of the driver needs to have the components installed but both would be great.
2s2p = 8.4v : for XHP50 conversion
4s1p = 16.8v : for XHP35 conversion or running 4x XM-l or XP-L in series with separate stars.
Switch = For clicky switch usage
Battery spring side:
Tailcap side:
