Yea, thought it was strange too. Might be the stock driver, also lack of any shelf - just the alum MCPCB. Traces on the MCPCB are probably long and poor as well.
I just bought a SRKung. For $24 shipped I couldn’t pass it up. It’ll give me something to judge the Q8 against as I don’t have a SRK light now. Yeah, it’ll be an unfair comparison.
FWIW, I saw 2 versions. One with 3 LEDs and one with the 7 LEDs.
Miller, I would like the Flashlight #1040 for a 3rd light, Thanks.
I just now bought this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/361453294016?\_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Where did you get your SRKung? Do you have a link? Thank you
Not the SRKung but this was recommended as being the best SRK type light available at the moment by Mitko on here
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10015804/4521601-ultrafire-4-l2-led-flashlight
Genuine cree XM-L2 emitters & genuine 3000 lumens with battery status indicator.
Teacher on here has one which he really rates & I have one on the way.
Thank you! I like the look of this light. Would make a great modding flashlight I like the charger and the indicator, not sure of the switch though. Great price. This is what I’m looking at now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tactical-SKYRAY-20000LM-10x-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-Flashlight-Torch-Waterproof-4X18650-/131869477635
I want to see if the 4 emitter reflector will fit inside, I like the smooth body on this fake SRK.
How appropriate that a lesser Balrog was cast out when the Valar called on Illuvatar to enforce the ban in a thread illuminated by the light of the two trees of Valinor. Sorry for pegging my geek meter, I just finished rereading the Sillmarillion for the umpteenth time. :person_facepalming:
Best mod for an SRK? Add a sink under the mcpcb, then use an SRK DD and some good emitters on copper.
I saw that black and red light and maybe it was a trick of the picture, but the red looked like plastic to me. I couldn’t find where they stated what the body was made out of. I would assume (and would hope) aluminum, but I’ve been wrong before.
Here’s the SRKung that I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272055078200
Thank you for the link. I figured for 22 dollars and change I could use it for parts. I watched a couple You Tube vids and it seems to be an aluminum bezel.
I was all geared up to buy a Kung direct from Shenzen this morning but their site carped out on me and took a dive so I gave it up.
Yeah, I figured my eyes had to be playing tricks on me, plus they needed a place for the heat to go. Hard to believe that I would believe the worst when it comes to inexpensive Chinese made stuff.
But I have to give them credit, since I got away from my initial source of lights the quality has gone up tremendously. But I’m still gun shy about it.
Please let us know how you like it.
I’ll probably get xp-l hi’s , thanks
Kaidomain has HI V3’s 1A’s and 1C’s
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024900.Cree-XP-L-HI-V3-1A-White-6500K-LED-Emitter
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024438.Cree-XP-L-HI-V3-1C-6500K-White-LED-Emitter
Well , thinking of choosing xp-l hi V2 , only due to the price (i can buy them really cheap) .
If my calculations are right , at 3 amp per led , difference would be 180 (well , 178) lumens .
Thing is , still thinking if i should go budget or not . Plus , i didn’t find aluminum bar for heatsink yet …
For those who missed it, here are some of the clean parts:
Thanks for the excerpts. It was apparently more bizarre than I realized. It almost looks like a teen feud spilled out onto the internet, with one party pretending to be the other and posting junk to make them look bad.
Back on topic though, the exciting news was a few posts back…
Possible mods on the Q8 proto:
- UCLp upgrade - best lens I know of
- XP-L2’s - gotta be the HD V6 3B’s from KD, only XP-L2’s I know of at V6 bin. Been getting over 2,000 lumens out of single mods
- more baking - gonna try baking the battery tube form the bottom up - hope to get dark gold on bottom, maybe changing to reddish near the head. Maybe try the head in the reddish tint?
- Better FET, maybe the SIR404DP or this one: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bsc009ne2ls5atma1/infineon-technologies-ag. The Infineon has some awesome specs, but I might be missing a deal breaker spec somewhere in it, but 100 amp max, 400 amp pulsed, lower resistance, much lower response times? Hhmm… Not the same package/footprint but very close - think’n it should work - pin spacing matches.
- thicker LED wires? Maybe 16 AWG? Should be able to fit
- Working on V1.3 firmware enhancements
- need to lower the LED switch brightness - will try a higher value resistor
Wonder what output can be achieved with all the above. Figure a solid 5% bump for the UCLp lens alone, maybe another 5% for the XPL2’s because they can do higher amps because of the lower Vf they operate at.The wire and FET might be a couple %, maybe. Maybe 7,200+? Nice if so…
In Narsil ramping, if you ramp down, it actually doesn’t go to the set moon level, it stops at the first entry of the ramping table, which is a PWM value of 3. So only way to access moon is from OFF, press&hold, then release as soon as the LED goes ON — it pauses at moon mode to give you a chance to release the button and catch it on moon. Moon mode is remembered though as the last used level. In Narsil now, the dbl-click access to turbo is not “remembered”, so I’m considering doing the same for moon mode when you access it from OFF via press&hold. But if I do that, probably should allow ramping down to go to moon mode as the lowest level. This way it’s consistent with turbo/max level.
So, if you ramp up to turbo/max it’s remembered (now), and if you ramp down to moon, make it remembered as well (currently not). I think this is more consistent, and provides a better clear access to the 3 levels from OFF:
- direct to moon mode by press&hold (again, the value of moon mode is custom configurable in the UI)
- direct access to last used ramped level (click)
- direct access to turbo/max (dbl-click)
moon mode and turbo can still be “remembered”, but you have to ramp to them to do so.
How much of that do you think will end up in the final product? I’m assuming probably the newer firmware, at least, but are any of those hardware changes intended for the released Q8?
Will do. I’ll try and purchase it next week and I’ll let you know what I think of it. The SRK 32x 7135 Driver - V2 will be going in the 4 emitter SRK when it gets here. 12.1 amps should do nicely on 4 emitters.
If the list is still open, I am up for one :+1:
How much of that do you think will end up in the final product? I’m assuming probably the newer firmware, at least, but are any of those hardware changes intended for the released Q8?
No - just my own mods. Kill'n time, and showing everyone what it's capabilities may be with some mods. Didn't have much time, but I did bake the battery tube part of the body - it came out pretty awesome. This time I used a lower flame on the gas stove, stood it upright and was hoping to get a transition in color from bottom to top, but that didn't happen, but I did get the whole thing to come out in a nice shade of copper. It doesn't match the tail cap but looks real nice. I could use a compatible tail cap and try to match it now, and hopefully will try to get the head to match. There's probably some pics around showing this copper color somewhere, but I'll take/post some hopefully in the next few days.
We haven't heard anything definitive from ThorFire on the LED's, suppose to be XPL V6 3D's, but switching to XPL2's will be some pros/cons for sure with the typical XPG3/XPL2 yellow halo around the hot spot, some may not care for it. Just dunno how it would look in a 4X SRK. An OP finish I believe, reduces the effect. For my personal use, I don't see it as much of an issue in SMO, but there's been many commenting on it negatively so I don't think we should jump into it without consideration, or at least some experimenting.
We still are going with straight simple glass for the lens, but I use UCLp's with NW tints in other lights and haven't noticed any downside effects.
I'm thinking ThorFire should be sending out a 2nd prototype soon, so the first prototype is subject to modding .
Tom if you want to get a color change like this
you need to cool one side of the tube with a piece of wet cloth or toilet paper
and push as much heat as you can on the other side of the body part
if you dont cool one side the heat transfer is so quick the whole body part turns to the same color if you apply the heat slow
so you have to heat one side quicker than the heat gets conducted to the other, hard to control
I did it on the C8 that way, but its not easy to control
Nice Lexel
Tom too!
Yeah sorry, not well yet so not at all on top of things
Oh will update list later