No thats absolutly wrong! ! ! If that would be true i would not have spend money on parts to mod the Q8, i would not have followed this thread for month and also i would not have been on the interests list if thats the case! But i have a real problem if modability gets much more difficult and the end result is not as good as it could be only to save 50 cents/light!
I solder blobbed flat top 30Q”s 
Yes it was Mitko that recommended the light to me :+1:
Apparently he has bought & modded quite a few of them & really rated them
I get you, we wanted, specced and asked for a ring, it was there in the proto V1
The changes came as a surprise and we will ask if TF wants to explain why this setup.
However thanks to input we know why they did it, and those few cents and easier assembly probably make it a better deal and compared to SRK clones still gives us a better modding platform.
Will update list later
This right here is an amazing project.
I enjoyed reading (a better part of) the more than 5500 postings this weekend, learning so much about a topic I didn’t care about just a couple days ago. It is truely awesome what you guys are doing and how dedicated you are.
I’d love to be a small part and give a little support to the cause, so please:
put me on the list for one Q8.
Oh man… if someone could upgrade my Meteor to Narsil, I’d be all over that.
Me too.
Love my Meteor, but hate the UI.
I should be one of the few people that I’m on the other side 
I can mod it but i don’t want to destroy that driver . UI isn’t perfect but I’m not that much annoyed .
Hmm , maybe if i had a second one i would surely try that 
I’m also interested in the highest safe continuous output (as in batteries and components not overheating and no burnt fingers) from the Q8. I think with proto 1 it was just below 2000 lumens if I recall correctly? Narsil allows for non ramping modes as well, which may be better for users who need to leave it on a specific known output level.
Not sure if I ever saw an opened Meteor. Anyone know if any teardown reviews? I only saw this: http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=27458, and doesn't show getting the driver out. Should be simple to put in any driver you want once it's opened.
Welcome to BLF
Thanks for your kind words
And o lf course will update list later.
Found this : http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/noctigon-meteor-m43-xp-l-hi-v3-komplett-zerlegt.47912/
TheOnlyDocc, I think you may be making an issue out of nothing regarding the screws holding the driver. If you want to argue against the screws, argue the mod-ability aspect; for sure a retaining ring is more mod-friendly. But don’t argue that screws are going to damage the PCB - open up just about literally any (repeat: literally, not figuratively, ANY) of the probably hundreds of pieces consumer electronics you use every. single. day. The PCB is screwed in about 99.9% of them. When was the last time you had a piece of consumer electronics break from a cracked PCB due to the mounting screws? I’m sure it’s happened somewhere, but I’ve never seen it personally, I think that’s a rare failure mode in the field.
Should be roughly the same. Don't recall - did I do a test like that? Even 2,000 lumens continuous might be pushing it, maybe not. I'd guess 6-8 amps or so. 6A continuous is still a lot of heat. Plan is to ship them with a default turbo timeout of 90 seconds.
Thanks for answering StephenKs question.
I’ll still use my hand. 110°F is still pretty warm and allows plenty of leeway for the internals IMO.
My pleasure BT100, enjoy your time here. :+1:
The Miller is the “Keeper of the List”, I’m sure he will be glad to add you.
Sorry, we had a lot of discussion on heat early on. Lot of ways of handling it. Even the best algorithms for thermal management are not perfect. We can use the internal heat sensor but it's far from perfect.
I might still be able to get temp sensor support in that can be enabled/disabled, but these protos are killing my available time unfortunately. From what I've seen/found is the components can take a lot more heat that we'd think with a good design, which I think this light is. I had a modded M6 get so hot it was untouchable - on max for 40 minutes or so in a bag wrapped in a towel - not ideal for shedding heat. Bottom line was no damage at all, to LEDs, driver, batteries - nothing. So thermal mgt can be done for high temps, or more moderately for human comfort. Most thresholds are set at 50C to 60C for human comfort. CREE itself specs bins LED's at 85C, and are spec'd at a max of 150C for LED junction temperature.
In some recent thermal tests I did, I calibrated the internal temp sensor based on room temp, set the threshold to 50C, and turned the test light on max, in a few minutes, at the exact moment I read 50C at the hot spot on the outside of the light with an IR thermometer, the threshold triggered and the output was dropped. So decent calibration can be done for rising temps, but in cooling, the outer body cools much quicker than what the sensor reads - I've seen this over and over again, and this is where it gets complicated, and is probably attribute to the internal temp sensor. An external one properly placed could work much better.
TK, it’s not really all that big a deal… my own Meteor has your ramping firmware in it.
boost only.
if I’m not mistaken meteor uses 4P batteries for 3S LEDs.
here is predecessor of METEOR’s driver from my custom SRK :
It uses a bit different UI and I actually like it
Is that solder all around the outside of that driver strango??
@sac02
Please read my post complete. I said that a “flathead” srew is not the right srew for a PCB and that this may damage it. But i also said:
If TF absolutely want to use srews to hold down the driver, one good option i can think of is, to make the inner brass ring bigger (higher) to get enough clearence to use normal screws. This way there would be much less tension on the driver!
And you are right in 99% of the time PCB´s are hold down buy srews but not flathead srews! Take any PC or Printer or coffe mashine or. . . dissasamble it an take a look at the srews. And you will notice that they normaly do not use Flathead´s! Because normaly you countersink the drill hole when u are using flathead srews. But the PCB is not thick enough to do that. So if you now tighten the srew you are giving pressure on the edge of the drill hole in the PCB. This is not happening with a normal srew which is used in 99% of the electronics as you mentioned.
