Besides all the great things about ramping please do not forget there are several other mode groups to choose from
So just set it up it has only 3 modes and simplicity galore 
OP updated with:
First rough sketch of the head send to Thorfire.
Sorry I do not have high skills in graphic design and software so it is made in paint.
KISS Agreed , keep it simple. Looks like a win.
The Miller, would it not be easier if the design was based on an existing product or is it?
You can obviously specify whatās important to improve the design such as shelf thickness, cooling fins, threads, bezel, knurling etc ?
Sounds great except when ramping up it would be nice to be able to release then press and hold again to ramp back down without having to go all the way to the brightest first, and then be able to change ramping direction back up again by releasing and holding again. Basically press and hold after a release will change ramping direction.
Also I think waiting 3 seconds before ramping starts may be a bit to long. Iām thinking maybe one full second would be good.
Well we are communcating about the tube but cannot disclose that design since it is not ours but Thorfires.
Thorfire does not have a quad emitter, 46mm driver accepting light so we know at least the head will have to be designed new as is anyway.
This was a nice workflow we had here
Jos adapted the SRK to have more fins
And then looking at it with other glasses then a user I started playing with that.
At first I liked the Jos design much better, my fins were all over the place, but then I saw 11 cuts are to be made for the fins and this (imho opinion elegant) design popped up in my head.
When throwing it back to the team I made the cross section and we all kind of agreed this is a good basis to work from.
think away the shelf ad the tripod mount the overal is not all that different from a SRK, but a lot more material and fins hence better heat absorption and shedding .
Yet margianlly bigger then the current SRKs mainly in the bottom side of the head, overal dimensions are basically the same o total lenght and width of a SRK are the same, the Q8 is just beefier and wellā¦better 
Tripod mount - thread spiral is too short - steel cylinder pressed in AL body is better.
Wouldnāt a hole and threads work?
I have yet to find a tripod without a little thingy to tighten it. So I figured all we need is a hole and 3 or 4 threads and done.
Pressing in a steel thing sounds expensive but idk.
Please add me to the list for 1 too.
Thanks.
Not that I know, but 3 or 4 threads of aluminium might not be enough with the weight of 4 cells, plus moving the thread to the body might provide better balance if the light was used on one of those tiny flexible tripods.
Yep, good suggestion, and well aware of that option (other discussions on it from TK, others, etc.). To implement that, the idea would be timing - if you release, then press again within a limited time, then it reverse ramps. Again, simple vs. functional. Really not sure yet how to go. Been holding off on it to keep it simple, but I understand the need. The alternative is click to OFF, and hold to ramp up again.
3 secs before ramping begins? There's no delays at all. Ramping starts immediate on a hold, or actually just a very small delay, hhmm, maybe a 1/4 second or so? You don't really notice that delay. 3 seconds is the total time from moon to max, or max to moon. Sorry, maybe I didn't make that clear.
Ah and I saw the button and thus tripod mount were a tad too high
V2 (not send to Thorfire of course, will hold that till more have given advice here)
Changes
switch and tripod mount lowered a bit
tripod mount deepened
added a little extra alu for heat transfer to the fins
driver retainer ring threading more accurate
Thanks for the input, keep it coming!
What you really want is a discontinuation of the fins in the area where the tripod mount is (and the switch) and then a really decent thread depth, it is too shalow now for decent mounting and it is also sinked in. But I assume it is an extra machining effort to make it like that.
Add 1 for me please.
look great so far
put me on the list for one please
DJ is right about the thread for the tripod i think thatās an M6 screw so it should be at least 6mm deep its aluminium with a steel screw easy to over tighten it if its not deep enough
Yeah, if they do like djozz said, and discontinue the grooves in that area, they have plenty of meat to drill and tap a hole that is deep enough to not give trouble.
This. If the tripod threads are recessed betweem the fins, they will be near useless. The screws Iāve seen on tripods are typically not very long. The standard appears to be 1/4 inch. This is starting to look like something which wonāt work at a reasonable cost.
YES, consider the hole for the tripod mount as location for a nut/bold like the Warson X65 has, that sticks out so it is not blocked by fins.