Maybe really for Q8 this time, now with a dedicated layout, indicator, ramps customized for Q8 output, and TA modegroups laid onto the 2-channel ramps.
I'll probably make another thread for it, and there's the HD thread, but anyway, I left it at light-off during button press. Downside is no feedback from main beam on how long is long enough (but that's true using long press to reset the mode too, but I do that often). However, I added an indicator acknowledgement of the off, so if you are looking at the indicator, you still can tell. (indicator turns off on switch press, and turns back on once its locked off).
Still no switch lockout, still no menu control for the indicator (the second one is easy). It's a proto.
LOL, yeah, ok, but that's a lot to add to a two minute plan.
And of course I can make it more complicated (and use 0 bytes instead of 8)
This is gpl3 lol:
#define INDICATOR_PIN PB4 // in common layout
#define USE_INDICATOR // in feature configuration for this build
uint8_t t_PORTB=0;
uint8_t t_DDRB=0;
uint8_t t_DIDR0=0b00111111; // theoretcially saves power
#ifdef USE_INDICATOR
t_PORTB |= (1<<INDICATOR_PIN);
t_DDRB |= (1<<INDICATOR_PIN);
#endif
//... do other t_PORTB adjustments for PWM etc
PORTB = t_PORTB;
DDRB = t_DDRB;
DIDR0 = t_DIDR0;
Why do with two lines what you can do with at least 10?
Seriously though (a little), there are good reasons. The temp variable for example avoids multiple un-optimizable volatile writes to the IO registers. The final assembly code will have the constant calculations precomputed by the compiler leaving only the last lines (each an LDI and an OUT). The compiler isn't allowed to do that with direct PORTB writes. So, adding the extra bit sets for the indicator for example took no extra code space. That's especially nice with preproc customizable code where you can't pre-compute the bytes by hand either.
Totally agree - only way to do high amp lights is an e-switch. Why bother with special custom high amp mechanical switches when it's easier, better, more control with an e-switch?
I recognized the advantages of e-switches years ago, and so have the manufacturers.
Of course there's no reason a clicky-type switch can't be used as an e-switch, other than maybe finding a comfortable way to mount one that's substantial enough to have the right feel?
I had another thought with clicky ramping anyway though. Tap... ramps.. tap:stop. med tap ramps down. tap:stop. Clicky or not, it means you don't need to remember which way you were going, and you can always go up. Downside: slower reaction on the stop. But I have to check out what TK's been up to. Lot's of good variations and people like different things. For me, it's function over form always.
Well, like I posted, it worked for me but dunno if it would work for everyone - i thought it would though. The repaired light is still working fine.
We suspect the thru-holes. I'd do some continuity checks to see if the thru-holes are good, even so, might be intermittent, heat related issues - could drill out the thru holes and fill with solder. It's a pain for sure for such a little board. My reflowing might have just been a bandaid fix.
Can you get it running out of the light? Then surely you could measure if the board is putting out the juice or not: Measure open voltage, then bypass the switch, measure voltage across resistor, finally switch still bypassed, put current meter inline.
Hmm will add you to the OP late
Strange this is new, you saw the switch leds dimming and then no longer working.
If you happen to have that switch assembly out and without parts can you make pics of the traces by shining light at it from the back?
No so sure. When I removed just the right LED (the one I ended putting back in), it did not fix the problem. If it is the LEDs then I had a good one and a bad one. And of course I picked the wrong one to remove first But it might just as well have been the PCB considering how much I messed it up in the process. Anyway, if someone is going to try removing one LED, remove the brighter one first, if you remember which it was.
Yeah sure, added
When somebody with the issue has the switch assembly stripped and cleaned out completely, some pics of the internal traces could be of help, shine light at it from behind and the traces ought to be visible then.
Does temperature protection have any specific information on how it works?
Is it a fixed temperature or can we set the temperature to work where it works?
When you select it the light comes on at turbo
You wait till it reaches the temp you think it becomes too hot and set that.
Doing so you also calibrate the temp sensor of your MCU.
Don’t set it too low for it will kick in too soon or give no higher modes when it is not cooled down.
I posted a request for lube on Friday then went out of town (and cell range) for the weekend. Just wanted to say thanks to those that responded; sorry I missed the discussion but thanks again for steering me in the right direction. I’ll head to Home Depot on the way home today and grab some Super Lube.
If you have a good macro facility, please try to take slightly angled shots from both sides of the board, also try to light it such that we can get a glimpse of the internal plating of the through holes. Most of the small ones will be obscured by solder resist, but there is one larger one where the internal plating may be visible.
But it might just as well have been the PCB considering how much I messed it up in the process. Anyway, if someone is going to try removing one LED, remove the brighter one first, if you remember which it was.