+1, that's all correct bout how moon mode works, yes - and dang, not in v1.2.... yet. It's a bit clunky though if I include the programmed moon level in the ramping, because the ramping table goes down to 3, then would popup brighter if you have moon level set to 7, for example. I could lop off ramping based on the moon level setting, but that takes some code, and code space is getting tight. I'd have to think bout this...
I've seen level 1 in a Q8 so low, you gotta be in pitch black darkness to see the glow. Didn't test all the Q8's out though this way, but yes - totally useless.
Tom, I wouldn’t worry about it. It works just fine the way it is. IMHO there are plenty of better things for you to do with your time.
Level 1 moon mode is totally useless - EXCEPT that it brings me great happiness and makes me laugh when I turn on my one Q8 that it works in, cup my hands around the head and verify that it is actually on. Then, AFTER taking it away from my eye!, ramping or double clicking to turbo. The Q8 is the most extreme light I have ever owned, dimmest, AND brightest. It is just so much fun to play with, and a big part of that is Narsil.
Glad to see folks starting to get the new batch, and conversation picking up. I think it was Sunday I checked the forum, and this topic was on page 2
I did just notice something on mine, though. 1 of the centering rings is missing. I’ve looked down the reflector a hundred times, and never noticed. Something caught my attention, and it appears to be missing. I haven’t gotten the bezel off yet to see if its inside, but doesn’t seem to effect the beam.
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but is there anywhere that ships appropriate 30Qs to Canada for a reasonable price? It’s frustrating both GB and BG won’t ship to Canada anymore.
Unfortunately liionwholesale only ships to Canada by UPS Standard and it would be $25 shipping plus a whole slew of brokerage fees for a set of 30Qs. I’m looking for a reputable Asian source so the cost doesn’t balloon to as much as the Q8 itself.
The first 500 are reported to take 2 M3x5 for the driver, 4 M2.5x5 for the tail board. The new ones use all the same screws.
My Q8 #3 showed up today, #2 is still out there somewhere. Out of the box it showed 5599.35 lumens on 4 new Samsung 30Q Button Top cells. Every aspect of it is top notch, once again. I haven’t received a better made light in all of the lights I’ve had. Beautiful work, again, Thorfire and the Q8 team. Thank you!
That was interesting. Finally found out how those 30 digit tracking #'s work -- the last 22 digits are a USPS tracking #, :FACEPALM: Rcv'd the light today.
This second light that came in, #3 of my 3, with brass screws replacing the driver and spring pcb screws, makes 5802.9 lumens on freshly charged 30Q BT cells, 5378.55 at 30 seconds.
So start lumens is up 203.55 lumens for the $0.30 worth of brass screws.
> Why don’t they put brass screws in, in the first place?
I’ll fire up the Wayback Machine and suggest it …
No, seriously, just to guess — it’s unlikely they had any brass screws handy.
Not likely the people on the assembly line even thought, hmmm, if I put in a more conductive screw, the light would be brighter.
And not likely they’d have been rewarded for slowing down production by suggesting it, either.
Remember their normal building process was tearing up some of their regular steel screw heads, and they weren’t noticing until we did — and most brass is softer and would have required more attention.
As J. Baldwin of the old Whole Earth Catalog used to say, you never know how to use a tool until you know six ways to break it.
I’d add, you never know how to build a tool until you’ve screwed up the first half dozen you try to make.
That’s why I suggested the next group build be called the BLF “QC” — because that’s what we did for them, quality control.
Remember, we’re trying to teach China the skill set needed to rule the world. Attention to detail is a tough first step.
Besides electrical conductivity, brass conducts heat better than steel. So that big M4 screw that connects the super heated MCPCB to the big heavy reflector? Well, its the only point of contact of metal to the reflector, the other points are where it sits on the 4 plastic centering rings, and where it's held in place on top by the o-ring and glass lens. So does it make a difference? Maybe, but why not?
With the 2 screws holding down the MCPCB, yes brass is a good thing to have between the MCPCB and shelf, and again, it's the only direct metal contact between the two - the flat surface area is coated in thermal grease. On the 2nd batch though it's a different setup. I got my first 2nd batch light and I got pics and details to follow.
Please see the comments above. Even with steel screws they managed to bugger the heads. Brass is a very soft metal, but it conducts both heat and angry pixies much better than aluminum. Tom is experimenting on getting the heat away from the LED’s quicker. The tail benefits from improved conductivity from the battery springs to the body.
