Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

I think the future is where the flashlight has the USB charging port and it is also able to update the firmware with a small program on PC or the monitor or led flashing method in to the reflector and leds to update settings with a webpage or mobile phone app.

TK that term is equal to (wADCVal/2)/wADCval in other words it's just 0.5. It just shifts the rounding, likely to make up for integer truncation in the math in the first place, which if that's the case, tends to bias downward by 0.5 on average. You can't put in an actual 0.5 because it's integer so it's a pre-division 0.5

Yeah, there's been talk of using the main led's as a light sensor for programming. I think it was TK who did some initial tests. However on a board this big, I suspect something like adding just adding a Bluetooth chip would be easier, and is more proven. This light is already really easy to flash though. Who needs screws? They just get in the way of flashing.

According to tracking mine has arrived in Hong Kong. Not bad going for over 2 weeks.

I’ll check my post in a year or two and see if it’s arrived :smiley:

Am I able to update firmware using a Macbook Air?

P.S. Please continue to make my flashlights obsolete. :slight_smile:

I haven’t had a chance to test much, and there are at least a few things to finish still… but mostly I wanted to note that the indicator can do a lower brightness by changing a few bits in the firmware.

On the high setting, it’s definitely bright enough to navigate in dark places.

Dunno bout the Macbook Air.

Would like to do something like these guys do: http://lux-rc.com/content/products/flashlights/Minions

But that's the tech that TK was researching, and a friend of mine (an EE) recommended.

Thought Batch #2 would not be as bright as batch #1 - don't think they are, but still they are pretty bright. Resistors have to be swapped to lower brightness for now. I'm waiting to finish my DIY jig/tool to loosen/tighten the switch retaining ring - it's getting there, made from Plexiglas.

Moonlight issue.

I got two Q8, one from 1st batch and another one from 2nd batch revision after the production halt.

In ramping mode, press hold from off to enter moonlight, starts out fine but after 10sec it goes full turbo brightness. This behavior doesn’t happen in the 2nd batch revision.

The FW3A driver has the pads or even parts to make this possible.
But that is the easiest, a program hat people can use is the hardest here. TK already showed the LEDs can receive data.

Does this also happen when you stop the ramp at other brightness levels?
Hmm :frowning: it seems I need yo add you to the misc section of issues in the OP, maybe PM me, time to gather info for solution here.

Thanks for the Lux-RC pointer.
Always good to know how extreme this stuff can get.
He’s done the “ray gun cooling fins” I’ve been wishing to see very nicely.

So why haven’t the Chinese manufacturers cloned his stuff? (I know, no way to make it cheap enough)

Switching mode driver, eh? Wow.

So light from a smart-TV can be modulated to serve as a data input. Whew.

Heh heh. Flashlights with USB, memory cards, wifi, Ethernet, Bluetooth, and LEDs that work as optical inputs.
You’d almost think the computers were taking over.

Can I ping my flashlight? Does it have an ipV6 address? Does it talk to me yet? Does it listen, track me, and serve advertisements?
And can my flashlight collection mine Bitcoins when I’m not using them?

Oy.

I tried a factory reset and seems to be fine now.

Not sure what was wrong or went wrong. I did play around with the mode sets settings before going back to ramping config. Might be specific sequence of settings combination that made it go wonky.

I'm pretty sure what happened here is the temperature step down was configured, and probably set to a low temperature, therefore it triggers prematurely. There is a bug in the firmware while in moon mode, the firmware "thinks" it's in a high amp level, and therefore when it goes over temperature in moon mode, it thinks it's dropping output, but instead, it's bumping it up. I can reproduce this behavior and sounds exactly like what you were seeing, and yes, a factory default reset will turn off temperature stepdown and resort back to a 3 minute stepdown, so the problem goes away.

Internal pullup, I imagine? I seem to remember it being around 30K which is just about right here. It’s great that this works, I wanted to reduce the brightness of mine and this will be far easier than soldering tiny resistors.

Yeah, no complaints from me. Keep making them obsolete. That’s the BLF way! :crown:

Makes sense, interesting bug & good to know. I did play around with the temp stepdown, thought I had it at the preset 55C, but guess not.

I am sorry for a stupid question, but how what is the current draw to the leds in the switch? How long can I leave cells in the flashlight? I often work abroad, sometimes for months. Is it safe for cells to let them in the flashlight for 3 or 4 months ???

when you know you are not around I would just lock it out with a slight unscrew

Received my “second-batch” Q8 today. Its basically flawless, no complaints. Threads are clean, ano is spotless (that I can find), screws and overall assembly are a HUGE improvement, switch LEDs are balanced. If anything I can see that the machining of the steel bezel isn’t quite as clean, as others have noted, but that’s not a big deal to me at all.

This did give me the chance to actually compare, right next to each other, the effects of bypassing the springs in my first-batch light. The difference by eye is nothing short of amazing. Here’s my new, stock Q8 on the left, with my lightly modded Q8 on the right. Its just bypassed springs, plus better screws and a properly seated driver, both things that were fixed in the second run anyway. So in effect this is really just the visible difference of bypassing the springs in this light.

Not exactly though... Batch #2 could be brighter by 400-1000 lumens than batch #1 with both just out of the box. Rough guess but consistent with a up to 10 batch #1 samples vs. couple from batch #2. There was a wide range for batch #1, while I'm thinking batch #2 will be more consistent, and higher.