When you stop at any strobe level, after 1.2 seconds, it locks in. Then another click turns the light off. I talk about it in more detail in my mode sets video.
That is how he expects you to do it. There is no other way.
The reason I mess up a few times in the video is because I don’t use blinkies. I learned them just for the video, plus I did the video in one take. No editing.
Future versions of NarsilM are going to have a wrap around feature so that if you press and hold from the lowest level, instead of turning off, it will go backwards from the 1st strobe to the 5th. That will be a nice upgrade.
Yeah wanted to post about waiting for it to find its permanent location first, heheh should have expected some input on this.
Q8 from first batch has “over shot” petfect alignment here by an guestimated 7 degree
After reading your post I thought maybe get some copper wire on the contact ring driver could be a gooo start , protecting the driver and preventing wear making alignment change but then I thought copper is soft so it might not help.
Glad I am not minding how it is
Jason is dead-on with this. If you used mode sets, then the blinkies work exactly the same. Priority is given to 1 click ON, 1 click OFF. When you switch to a blinky mode, it "locks in" in ~1.2 seconds as Jason said, but you can always reverse navigate (press&hold), then that allows you to further reverse navigate or forward navigate. But again, forward navigating will time out in 1.2 seconds, resulting in "locking in" that mode.
I know in the beginning it's a struggle getting used to it, specially if you are not already proficient with mode set operation. For me it's intuitive because I've been using the mode set operation for like 3-4 years now, years before the smooth ramping was added.
The method to fwd and reverse navigate was first made popular by BLFer Werner, and aptly named the "Werner UI", but I modified it to "lock in" a mode with the 1.2 sec timeout, so you didn't have to click through all remaining modes to turn the light OFF - this is where priority is given to the "1 click ON, 1 click OFF" rule.
True, tolerances are tight. I haven't seen this issue myself but thought this was raised a while back. Was the light pretty warm? You said only after it's been on a while, so wondering if it's heat related.
Not sure if it's a combo of maybe the specific switch and how the switch input is handled, or what. Is yours a batch 1, first 500 light? Don't think they changed the switch sourcing, but the wiring and board is definitely different.
I read few reviews for this FL. But I could not find info how lumens drop over time (step down).
Do you maybe know if such graph exist in this thread or in any other online reviews?
I keep finding I’ve turned off the indicator light inadvertently by ramping down to moon then clicking off. I’m used to pre-setting the last mode used to a low level so it comes on without blinding anyone, have to get used to the fact it’s not necessary.
I don’t have pics yet, but I managed to get most of the rest of the AR coating off. After soaking it in paint thinner for a couple hours, it seemed maybe a little softer, so another couple hours of polishing got most of the blue coating off. What’s left is on the edges and I aligned the lens so those parts are between reflector cups.
There seem to be two layers in this AR coating, with the top one being blue/green. The under-layer seems to be a more neutral shade of some sort, and I still have quite a bit of that left… but it’s neutral so the beam looks pretty nice now.
Getting a good picture will be a bit tricky. It’s hard to photograph something which is designed to be invisible.