It’s going to be difficult to reach 1600 lumens with a single emitter on 18650. And a little difficult to find UI with very simple modes. Your best bet is probably to look at the 18650 lights Simon (Convoy) has with three emitters: https://convoy.aliexpress.com/store/330416
I would almost recommend one of Hank’s 18650 lights like the D4V2 or KR4 but they use Anduril firmware. Anduril can be configured to be a very simple light like you’re asking for, but you’ll have to learn all the clicks and flow chart in order to set it up that way…but once you’ve done it, it’ll stay that way, how you like it. If that’s a possibility then there some more good lights running Anduril to choose from. Also keep in mind that you can usually run an 18650 battery inside a 21700 light/tube by using a spacer…if you don’t mind the slight added bulk then that opens the field further. And actually, if you aren’t stuck on 18650 for some reason, 21700 cells have a whole lot more to offer, especially when asking for more lumens.
Realistically, a single 18650 and single emitter, you’re looking generally at around 900 lumens max, which will taper down fairly quickly as battery voltage falls, but Simon does have some drivers now for the S2 + with higher current (the S2+ is a similar tube light host like the old BLF SE). That tiny host can’t dissipate much heat, however, so high amps/high lumens from a single emitter in there will be a little limited in use.
Hi there Correllux and thank you for your detailed and kind response. Okay, I’ll have a look to those convoy with three emitters. Thank you for your suggestion.
So do you have a link to Aliexpress or another store that delivers to Germany? I’ve mentioned the simple operating mode because if I’m in the field (or on a hunt), then it would be dangerous in a situation, if the light goes to e. g. flashing/blinking mode just because I’ve clicked in the wrong timing. I’m not unable to program it by myself, if I’ve the right programming chart.
I thought about that, that the 18650 is a strong limiting factor, but I’ve all the surroundings here (many 18650 and three chargers - because of e-cigarette vaper). That aside: I’m not limited to only one emitter
Thank you! Far too kind I’ve had just a brain fart
I would suggest the Convoy S21D in the 100% only mode group, 10dg TIR lens, 4000K 519A high CRI for the “3D” like light especially in the woods, 21700 to 18650 adapter if really needed, and maybe maybe a mod to a forward clicky switch.
My guess many will be recommending same as me with a Convoy S2+/S3 with a simple 4 mode driver.
If you want and need a good latest emitter with high CRI and R9(R9080), that will be a Convoy S2+/S3 with Nichia 519A that you can choose CCT range from 2700k-57000K. But it will be max 1000-1200 lumens depends on CCT.
If you don’t mind about CRI and CCT, Convoy S2+/S3 with fit near your 1600 lumens requirement with Luminus SFT-40(1600 Lumens), SST-40(1800 Lumens) as per Convoy specs.
But do bare in mind, with such a small host with LED capable of 1500 lumens and above, it will be a HOT ROD.
When you say “minimum 1600 lumens and higher”, you need to clarify what you mean. All the posters so far are answering as if a light that can reach 1600 lumens or higher for a few seconds or a minute counts. But most non-flashlight nerds would be really asking for 1600+ lumens continuous. After all 1600 lumens then dropping to 400 lumens after one minute is “1600 lumens and lower”, not “1600 lumens and higher”. And the general expectation in everyday life is that you turn on a light and it stays that brightness (room lights, car lights, etc.).
If you want 1600 lumens and higher, you’ll need a much larger light. For example, the Convoy S21D with a 21700 battery in the 519A is above 1600 lumens for only 2.5 minutes, then drops down to 1150 lumens continuous for 50 minutes until the battery is about exhausted. Maybe a 21700 with a more efficient LED can come close? Otherwise you are looking at 2x18650, 4x18650 lights.
A 60 watt lightbulb is like 800 lumens . The metal on a flashlight is there to absorb and transfer heat away from a screaming hot emitter. Imagine holding a 60 watt lightbulb in your hand . Lights drop from their maximum outputs because they have to . What you’re asking for is a pretty fast car that you can get in start up hammer your foot to the floor and shifted into reverse to get out your driveway and then slam it in the drive without ever taking your foot off the floor. Flashlight manufactures seem to be happy to let people share in their delusion but the truth shows up on a graph with lights getting exceedingly hot and outputs falling within seconds like a stone.
A better question is what kind of lights do you already have. Do you know what 800 lm looks like. Do you need flood or throw ?
If it’s one of your first lights then take peoples suggestions and buy the light you like the look of .
All newer Led lights are bright …. All of them so chasing numbers is a foolish way to buy a light . It would be like buying a tv armed with 1080p and 4k or shopping tires looking for round and black .
Thousands and thousands of members for the last 13 years will say buy anything you like the look of from Convoy and you’ll be happy having spent very little and getting a great product .
His driver that lets you choose between 12 configurations means you can have the light almost any way you want it .
Nah, he’s not asking for too much, just needs to bump it up a size. The Zebralight SC700d might be the smallest light that can sustain 1600+ lumens. It’s uses one 21700 but is pretty compact. Might be able to run a high current 18650 with an adaptor? Here’s a good review that shows its size, describes its interface, and has a runtime graph showing 1600+ lumens for 45 minutes, almost all of that over 1800 lumens:
I’ve had just a brain fart 
