Well, if you could implement smooth ramping with a CC circuit, then I'm a fan. I don't think it can be done though. Also even for mode levels, does CC lock you in to a set of specific levels? Was never sure of this...
If smooth ramping can't be done with a CC circuit, then add me to that small list of PWMers .
Ohh - also from direct experience, you can request/demand almost anything in the design of a light to China based manufacturers/fabricators, but what you get is what you get - that's it. Then it's up to you to delay the project for months and/or up the retail price, or try another vendor. The choices are usually given to you after they committed to a design. Just say'n.
It can be done, but I’ve never seen it done fantastically. The Sunwayman V11R and Jetbeam RRT01 are examples of smooth ramping without PWM, but they’re not particularly constant… their output changes quite a bit over time. Also, my RRT01 shows signs of rapid oscillation between a variety of levels instead of always being perfectly smooth. The Meteor ramps “soft start” style between levels but supposedly it can’t actually stay at any of the intermediate levels… and it has some pretty huge components which get very hot. Or there’s the idea of a potentiometer.
The best ones I’ve seen are like Tripledown, with a variety of CC channels and PWM to blend between. Or the led4power drivers which abuse the linear region of a FET, basically doing PWM so fast that the LED never gets a chance to fully turn on or off. But the linear FET approach requires some pretty serious driver heat sinking.
Really, the tripledown method gets pretty close to the best of both worlds. Or, if there’s not enough physical space for that, the FET+1 method works pretty well too. Would be nice if we could get Narsil and a 2- or 3-channel driver in pretty much everything.
Me too. I want to agree, but a few assertions went a step too far. Absolutes are usually not true.
If I understand correctly, a couple such people already spoke up.
PWM and CC are just two more tools in the toolbox. There are good uses for both.
Those plastic UCLp lenses I linked earlier are some of the nicest lenses on the planet, considered an upgrade from AR-coated glass. It doesn’t really make much difference, but some people do still insist on having a plastic lens.
On both topics, it really depends on the person and the goal. There are a variety of valid reasons to go either way. Like for PWM, a few of those reasons already came up. Cost, difficulty, size, complexity, tint vs efficiency, etc.
I don’t think I’d use “easy” to describe any part of the process of getting a budget product manufactured in China. Rey has made some pretty nice lights for us. None have been perfect, but almost nothing ever is.
I’m planning to put a BLF driver in mine, take the AR coating off the lens, and maybe diffuse the beam. Because BLF. Why complain about the parts we don’t like when we can use the good parts to make something better?
Don’t know yet. Probably something simple, like a 1x7135. I don’t need it incredibly bright; mostly just want to adjust the modes, speed up the pulses, and add some blinkies. But I haven’t even taken it apart yet, and probably won’t have time for it anytime soon.
I understand that Rey wanted the Pineapple to be dual chemistry and that he wanted the low mode not to be lost when using LiIon, so he opted for a PWM strategy.
I posted a poll to try and determine peoples priorities regarding PWM and dual chemistry. It is not Pineapple specific, but I hope the Pineapple owners will participate: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/72766
my personal bias:
I chose not to buy the Pineapple because it has PWM. Dual chemistry is less important to me than avoiding PWM. I would have been tempted to buy the Pineapple as an AA light with NoPWM. I am not a LiIon user.
Every time I shoot a photo like this… it reminds me why I am not a buyer of PWM lights.
Oh wow, that looks great! Are those trit slots I see drilled through the “fins” on the tailcap? Looks like more on the head, too. Still a tail clicky, right?
Ooh, I want one! If you are are looking at any changes from the brass pineapple I would like to suggest a slight bump in the ML mode to 0.3 lumen and maybe an OP reflector for a less-ringy beam. I still like it very much as is though.
Over all it’s a nice brass flashlight but I think Rey needs to pay attention on the details in the future.
LED is off-center and the metal switch cap is scratched.
I have several flashlight with scratches because of usage (battle scars) and it’s okay. But receiving scratched flashlight at the first place is a bit unpleasing.
It’s okay, Rey, I’m not complaining. Just an advise.
fyi, it is not necessary to use abrasives to remove patina. It comes off with Vinegar, or lemon juice, or ketchup, just by soaking
correct, vinegar removes patina from copper and brass, but vinegar creates patina on steel, opposite effects… Do not use Vinegar if you want to patina brass or copper, but do use Vinegar if you want to remove patina from brass or copper…
Congrats on the new TiApple design, looks very Tritty!
Confession time.
Saw the Pineapple announced, before it was named. Initially, the $500 estimate forced me to look away. When I saw the renderings, I immediately did not like it.
Then… much later when the proofs came in, Rey threw up photos of the flashlight… LOVED the host. I wasn’t around to poke about PWM when it could have mattered… my fault. Ordered the light, with the hopes that there was only PWM on the middle two modes. Well, disappointment. I can’t use this flashlight as stock.
However, the 4000K 219C with HighCRI is amazing. It is far and away the most beautiful emitter I have. The PWM is intolerable, the existence of reflector ring artifacts are hard to understand (intentional?), the tail switch is too springy, feels gummy to me, and tail switch protrudes too far for solid tailstanding.
The tail switch can be mitigated with gunga’s instruction, and I can replace the driver with a CC driver. I’m not sure when/how I can get a loose, identical 219C. But when I do, all will be good. I’ll live with the reflector. But I am definitely keeping this host. It is really attractive, and I can not reconcile why I still don’t like it looking at the CGI rendering.
Now Rey posts pics of the other host. Again, I hated the rendering. But by the pictures posted, it looks really attractive, and I like it.
Thanks, Rey.
Just take it in stride that you can do 1000 things right, and one thing wrong, and guess which people will talk more about, ad nauseum?
Thanks for the feedback. The new batch changed the PWM to 9K, it is not visible under iphone 7 camera.
We also reduce the thickness of SS button for a better tailstanding.
BTY. it is available on Massdrop now. It is even 1$ cheaper than earlier pre-order price, not free shipping though.
Cool Rey - thanks for the info.
Is the new one on Massdrop the higher 9K PWM and slimmer button — I see that you indicate that but just wanted to double-check. thanks!
Got mine on Tuesday. Love it. The heft, the smell, holding it in my hand, the output, the UI, the simple and someway archaic design…
The tint of my Pineapple is quite a bit warmer than that of my Astrolux Copper Nichia 219B, hard to believe both are 4000K… I like the warmer tint, so great, just wondered.
The clip is functionally totally fine, but IMHO a bit cheapish looking, and out of place vs. the body. However, removed it anyway, because I don’t use clips.
Will order spacers (above knuckle finger rings from Ebay) for both gaps, will look fine I think… And sew a leather holster.
…
Anyone out there having two or even three pineapples at hand? Just had a close look - I think it’s possible to screw two or even three body tubes together and use two or three batteries. The tail end thread is 2mm longer than the front one, but the spring in the bottom part of the light should be long enough to reach the batteries even when three of them in (the batteries 4mm further inside the tubes)…
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