【Replace Suggestion】About Anduril Buck Driver on SP35

Hi guys,

I’m Barry. I just received the news that Sofirn SP35 has been discontinued, so we need to find a suitable model to update the Anduril buck driver that we used on SP35.
Therefore, I would like to seek professional advice from everyone here. The current basic requirements are that the maximum lumen is controlled within 2000, and the head of the lamp cannot be too small.

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Are You planning to put it into an existing model or design a completely new one? :slight_smile:

Didn’t SP35 use to have Simple UI ?

@Barry0892 a SP35-like light (21700 battery and reflector optics) but with Anduril instead of the the proprietary UI, would be exactly the light I’m looking for! Replace its tired old SST40 LED with something more modern (eg SFT40) and you’ve got a winner!

Regarding the driver, I’m no “professional” but please use a modern MCU like the AT1616 or AVR32DD20 with easily accessible flashing pads, and have USB powerbank capability (must-have for my use case).

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I agree. The LED could also be replaced with something like the LMP LHP531, like Convoy offers.

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Thanks for mentioning the LMP LHP531, wasn’t aware of it. Some SearXNG’ing indicates it’s capable of 3366 lumens, tho… and @Barry0892 told us one of their prereqs is 2000lm maximum.

The reason I mentioned the SFT40 is that it tops out at 2200lm, so feeding it with current for 2000lm (<10% less) wouldn’t be underdriving it too much… that was also the reason I didn’t mention the SFT70 either, to try and keep within Sofirn’s “lumen budget”.

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I would love to see a light with XHP 50.3 or SFT70.
The current could be limited to reach 2000 lumens.

Please use an efficient LED. This would be a Sft-40-w in 3 volts, or sft70, xhp50.3 HI for 6 volts. You can drive the 6 volt leds at a lower current but still easily achieve 2000-2200 lumens without overheating.

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Wouldn’t that cause loss of efficiency and/or tint shift?

Not really, and tint shift is unavoidable with high output leds whether CW or NW. A domeless LED (HI) oaired with an OP reflector would mitigate that anyway. At 6 volts, 5 amps, an xHp50.3 or sft70 would be more efficient than running a sft-25r or sft-40 or other 3 volt led at 8 amps, and run cooler.

An existing model, but obviously small modifications are inevitable.

In this case, how about upgrading IF22A with a CC driver?

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What about IF22A?

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Yep, but we made an Anduril buck driver for it later

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Dear Barry,

what about a light using the 46950 battery, with XHP 70.3 or XHP 70.2 for very long runtime?
I bet all preppers would have one. Just in USA there are about 9 million preppers, so it’s a giant market for you.

Not in my experience: I see no tint shift with the SFT40 on my FC13, going all the way from low to turbo I see the same thing. Of course this is subjective as I have no OPIE or similar, but I definitely see a LOT of tint shift with the SBT90.2 on my T9R in the same circumstances… so it seems to me that more powerful LEDs, when being driven with low currents, show that problem more frequently.

Anyway, this is why I suggested the SFT40, it matches @Barry0892 “lumen budget” almost perfectly, and I see no tint shift with mine on the entire brightness spectrum.

That’s exactly what the SFT40 on my FC13 is, perhaps that’s why I get so good results with it.

Hummrmrmrm… but 6V x 5A = 30W, while 3V x 8A = 24W, so how can the former be more efficient? (assuming of course the same amount of lumens being produced OTF). You must be talking about each one producing maximum lumens… having said that, the comparison should be done with both the 6V and the 3V LEDs producing the same quantity of numbers, and then seeing how much amps each is drawing, and multiplying by its voltage to see actual efficiency.

In this scenario, I would be surprised if the the underdriven LEDs turn out to be more efficient than the ones being driven closer to their actual capacity. But I might well be wrong.

, and run cooler.

Interesting. I will take your word on that, as I have no such LEDs among my modest flashlight collection.

In that we agree, my experience with the SFT40 in my FC13 is just about perfect.

Thanks for mentioning the IF22A. I have considered it, but given it doesn’t run Anduril, this drops it directly out of my consideration (“No Anduril, No Deal”).

What interests me in the new and reformed SP35 is exactly that you mention right there on your OP’s subject that it’s going to run Anduril. It will indeed have Anduril, and with a modern MCU like the AT1616 or AVR32DD20 plus easily accessible flashing pads, right?

Please confirm.

EDIT: just saw you further posted:

Color me interested! But I see no mention of Anduril on the IF22A, not even on its official product page.

So, how can I get ahold of the IF22A but with Anduril buck driver instead of the proprietary-UI one?

Good advice! We may have this plan next year

Hey dmenezes, my reply is to the previous question he asked.
What I mean now is that I want to find a suitable model for this Anduril buck driver, and IF22A seems to be a good choice.

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Great! We just need this before the apocalypse, ok? :sweat_smile: