Requirements, beyond the obvious

In the market for a small flashlight to carry with me when traveling. Started reading “best 2023…” articles, but only when I found this forum did I really appreciate the depth of this rabbit hole! So I thought I’d ask you all to help me in my selection. Feel free to ignore if this is way too ‘n00b’ for this forum. Clearly a lot of passion here!

My use case:
General purpose; to be used in scenarios like looking for an earbud under an airplane seat. to walking around snake-infested semi-wilderness.

The requirements I’ve already decided on:

  1. Maximum 125mm/5" long, no really chunky head … I basically want it to not be a consideration and always make it into my travel bag, even when squeezed for space
  2. User-replaceable 18650 or 21700 battery
  3. USB-C port to charge the battery
  4. Power bank function (same port)
  5. Must have ‘very low power’ mode that makes the inside of a hotel bathroom ever so faintly visible, to avoid walking into things only (way less than the lowest iPhone flashlight setting)
  6. Lockout mode

Other requirements I wonder about:

  1. Beam tint: 5000K seems to get the most votes?
  2. Beam angle: are there flashlights in this category that let me slide the reflector to go from flood to spot?
  3. Lumens: videos I see online showing 2000-4000 lumen flood lights make me go “oh yes, like that!” … so … that?
  4. Make sure it cant roll endlessly.
  5. Make sure it can stand on its tail?
  6. Diffusion cap available for my ‘hotel bathroom’ scenario?
  7. Submersible?
  8. Fall protection / bezel / build quality.

Things I really wonder about:

  1. Is ‘replacing the LED’ a thing? Or would you just buy a new flashlight?
  2. Are there lights in this small form factor that offer really warm or even red light as an alternative to the normal light?
  3. Magnetic base?

What other things would you recommend I look for in selecting a flash light?

Really appreciate your comments!

Welcome to BLF, @robdejonge! You came to the right place! And don’t worry, besides the community being extremely receptive, there are no “too n00b” questions, all of us were n00bs once.

Also, congrats, you seem to have really done your homework, impressive list of requirements! You seem to have left just one thing out: what’s your budget?

But regardless of budget, I think I can offer a few insights:

Re: 1-6, from my direct experience I can recommend the Wurkkos FC13: it’s an awesome light and fits all of these like a glove. I EDC mine in my belt pouch, and it’s my second most-used light: Wurkkos FC13 3500lm Flashlight, Reverse Charging, RGB AUX Button Light / Anduril 2.0 / IP68

About your general case: “looking under an airplane seat” and “walking around snake-infested wilderness” are two very opposite extremes, it’s not easy to satisfy both simultaneously. The first case (indoors) needs what we call “flood” (ie, distributing light more or less regularly in a wide area near the user) and can additionally benefit from a warmer CCT (ie lower than the 5000K you indicated and which are more friendly to the eye indoors) and high CRI (90+, which gives you better color rendition). The second case(outdoors) is usually the opposite and usually benefits from that we call “throw” (ie, capacity to concentrate the light into a “hotspot” that can illuminate as far away as possible),
works best with colder CCTs (my FC13 has the SFT40 LED at 6500K and perfect for that) and isn’t as sensitive to lower CRIs (mine is ~70 and doesn’t bother me when used outside).

That’s why I have two main flashlights: the FC13 for outdoors, and a 4000K Wurkkos TS10 for indoors. The TS10 is just perfect and everyone should have at least one, but it’s a 14500 light and so falls outside your specs.

But that said, if you insist in having a single light (and having been there once, I think I understand you perfectly), I would still recommend the FC13 but with the XHP50B LED: it’s 5000K as you indicated and has more flood, so it’s a better balance for indoors/outdoors use.

Now about your other requirements:

Beam tint: 5000K seems to get the most votes?

What we call “tint” is also related to DUV besides CCT (and that’s another deep rabbit hole) but yes, for your use case I’d say a CCT of 5000K is the more balanced.

Beam angle: are there flashlights in this category that let me slide the reflector to go from flood to spot?

See my comments above re: “flood” and “throw”. The “slide reflector” flashlights are what we call “zoomies”, and should be avoided because they generally suck.

Lumens: videos I see online showing 2000-4000 lumen flood lights make me go “oh yes, like that!” … so … that?

Most important for high-intensity applications (which don’t seem to be your case) are sustained lumens and unfortunately no pocket flashlight is going to sustain anything like 2000-4000 lumens for more than a few seconds (not enough thermal mass). But yes, the XHP50B FC13 is rated at 3500 lumens and according to 3rd party tests, starts at 3748 lumens and sustain above 3500 for over 30s and above 2000 for over a minute, and then stays in the range of 600-900 lumens for about one hour and a half. And 600 lumens is still a lot of light and more than enough for most purposes.

Make sure it cant roll endlessly.

The FC13 clip takes care of that.

Make sure it can stand on its tail?

Yep, the FC13 is totally tail-standing

Diffusion cap available for my ‘hotel bathroom’ scenario?

Available as an option: Wurkkos White Orange Diffuser for TS21/FC13 Soft Composite Materials Bright Indoor Reading Hiking Tent Lighting with Malleability, for less than 2 bucks you get both a white one and an orange one, the second is best for your ‘hotel bathroom’ scenario.

Submersible?

This is the realm of specialized diving lights, and it’s in direct contradiction with your “USB port” requirement unless you get one with a port hidden in the head threads area, but those are few and far between.

The FC13 is rated as IP68 meaning it should survive up to 2m underwater for short intervals, but that is contingent on its USB port cover being perfectly placed and in very good condition. My advice: don’t try that with yours, be it a FC13 or not, unless it’s a specialized diving light.

For normal usage (ie, splashes, heavy rain, etc) the FC13 and most lights are more than waterproof enough.

Fall protection / bezel / build quality.

The FC13 is rated to survive 1m falls and mine has survived harder ones with no issues. But don’t go around dropping your flashlight, if you’re in a fall-prone use case it’s strongly recommended to install and use the lanyard that comes with the light.

Is ‘replacing the LED’ a thing?

Needs specialized equipment and knowledge. Not something for beginners, but maybe further on.

Or would you just buy a new flashlight?

Even the pros that replace LEDs by the dozens don’t usually do it more than once on a single flashlight. Definitely buy a new one (that’s one way many of us ended up with a ton of flashlights).

Are there lights in this small form factor that offer really warm or even red light as an alternative to the normal light?

Yes, see the TS10 mentioned above for an example. And you can have lights with an alternate 2nd or even a 3rd “channel” with a different CCT LED and then “mix” them in variable proportion to reach basically any CCT, Hanklights are famous for that (but AFAIK none of them have USB ports and so fail one of your basic requirements).

Magnetic base?

Yes for the FC13, as a $2 option: Wurkkos Magnet Tailcap Work for TS11/FC13/WK03/HD15/FC11/HD20/WK15 Aluminum Material from Wurkkos Original Factory; I have one in mine and it works perfectly.

I hope the above helps, if you have more questions just let us know!

PS: don’t let the naysayers drive you away from the FC13 because it uses Anduril and is therefore “too complicated”. Anduril is just fantastic, and one click turns the light on and another turns the light off, and click and hold turns brightness up and another click and hold turns it down, and that’s all you need to know. Anduril can certainly do a lot of things but you definitely don’t need to use (or even be aware) of them all (I use maybe 10% and I’m definitely an enthusiast).

It’s a pleasure to have you onboard, robdejonge!

I’m going to second what dmenezes mentioned about a high color rendering index. That can be the difference between a stick and a snake.

are there flashlights in this category that let me slide the reflector to go from flood to spot?

There are a few, but they’re generally not very good. Zoom mechanisms add bulk, compromise waterproofing, and are usually pretty inefficient optically.

Is ‘replacing the LED’ a thing?

For hobbyists who want an LED with different characteristics, yes. LEDs don’t need regular replacement though; unless something is defective, you’ll get decades out of a flashlight LED.

Are there lights in this small form factor that offer really warm or even red light

Yes, a few.

Magnetic base?

That’s reasonably common.

I think you might like the Skilhunt EC300. See my review for all my thoughts on it, but here’s how it stacks up against your wishlist:

  • 115mm long, roughly tube-shaped
  • Field-replaceable 21700 battery; can use an 18650 with a spacer
  • USB-C, standards-compliant (works with all chargers, which has been an issue in the flashlight world before)
  • Powerbank function, output just under 3A
  • Lowest mode: 1 lumen - I’d like a little lower, but that’s about 1/50 what a typical phone flashlight does
  • Mechanical (loosen tailcap slightly) and electronic lockout options
  • 4000K in the neutral/high-CRI LED option - we don’t talk about the other one
  • I measured 1855 lumens, and it’s a floody beam
  • Tends not to roll, especially if the pocket clip is installed
  • Tailstands well
  • There are a bunch of 30mm silicone diffusers to be found on Aliexpress for a dollar or two
  • It’s submersible, but make sure the USB flap is firmly closed
  • Build quality is appropriate to its price point and noticeably better than sub-$50 stuff
  • The tailcap is not magnetic and it would be difficult to add one internally; I wonder if the Skilhunt M300 v2 tailcap would fit, and if there’s a way to buy one without buying a whole M300
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Although the model of flashlight being shown here is way too big for me, I happened upon this video and the zoom function looked so amazing that it made me wonder. I mean, look at how focused that beam is, and how crisp the edge remains even when ‘zooming out’.

But ok, 100% of you are saying not to do this so I’ll scratch this off my wishlist.

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Questions like this really make me wish there were some entry level lights with 519A 2700K (name of an LED and a color temp variant in the family).

I don’t think dedoming is beyond anyone, I’ve even had some of my friends dedomed their own lights with my instruction, and dedomed 519A 2700K is just beautiful and cozy warm.

The closest you’ll get to in the entry level group is 2700K SST20 or LH351D - these have been around for a long time and so are the most prevalent. LH351D is unpleasant to me, SST20 ain’t bad, but neither hold a candle (lol) to 519A.

If you’re up for less entry level and more enthusiast level, Hank at intl-outdoor will put just about any emitter you want in most lights, including 519A and he’ll dedomed them for you too. However, at that point you also open up to things like E21A 2000K or E17A 1850K which are both winners, if you can stomach the warmth. These 3 emitters are my most used.

Cheaper tickles my frugal genes, but I’m happy to pay up to €/$100 for the perfect device. That does not really seem to limit the selection much though, as most options I’ve seen are under that.

I should have explained this better. A lot of reviews mention how fast a flashlight gets hot, thermal management reduces the output after mere seconds, etc. But I figured 'if it peaks at 2000-4000, it should be able to do ~1000 lumens sustained" … which is probably more than enough for my use case.

I’ll be the first to admit even that is a guess though, because I don’t really have a practical reference for what “1000 lumens” translates to in real-world use.

And that is what I actually should have written down. Marketing copy got the better of me!

Oh no, look at what you’ve done! Now you have me investigating ‘flashlight firmware’ and wondering if I could reprogram something I buy off the shelf! :slight_smile:

Thank you very much for taking the time to write up your extensive comments. I’ll be checking out the lights you mentioned this afternoon. Really appreciate the warm welcome.

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Noted. Added to my list of requirements.

I’m very comfortable with a soldering iron and change the firmware on lots of devices, etc. But perhaps I’ll hold off on this particular replacement for now. It was mostly a “can I get a longer life out of it” question, and perhaps more than ‘decades’ is not needed! :wink:

Than you, too, for taking the time to respond to my post. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to share some of your experience with me! I’ll have a look at the suggested light. I am honestly overwhelmed with the number of options out there. How are there SO many companies out there?!

Thank you for the reply.

My gut feel says 2700K would be too warm for a general purpose flashlight, but I’ll certainly have a look at the emitters you’re mentioning. Replacing them myself Is perhaps a step beyond what I’d like to get into for now. Hank sounds like a great guy, but I’m not in the US (Dutch by origin, living in Asia) and so this may prove to be an expensive endeavor. Maybe when I next visit?!

However, the background of my question was really more of a ‘secondary function’ than the changing of the main light color. This function is basically to allow my wife and I nocturnal bathroom visits in hotels, guided by the least amount of light possible. I’d like to set up a light in the bathroom, at the lowest possible level, and leave it on throughout the night. The goal is to prevent us walking into things in an unknown environment, find the toilet, all while staying as close to being asleep as possible! :slight_smile:

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@dmenezes, @zak.wilson, @raccoon, anyone else who may want to comment :

I’ll be reviewing the models you both suggested this afternoon, but I’d really like your opinion on something that I found yesterday that has me quite curious: the Sofirn IF23 (manufacturer site, BLF search).

What I like:

  • Both flood and throw in a single light
  • Built-in red lights for the hotel bathroom scenario

What I dislike:

  • Main LED is 6500K … yikes
  • Main light CRI low 60s (review)
  • No intensity levels for the color mode
  • So much more could be done with those color LEDs
  • Auto-lock that can not be disabled

Would really appreciate any comments you may have!

Thanks! :smiley:

Good to know, and you are right, $100 is more than the average of what budget lights cost (usually about $30-$40), but it does open up some high-end lights like Hank’s. OTOH, about Hanklights specifically, I don’t see any of them fitting all your basic requirements as (AFAIK) Hank doesn’t put USB ports and powerbank functionalities in any of his lights.

This will depend a lot on the particular light, as it’s influenced by multiple factors like what LED is being used (some use much more power than others), how efficient is the driver (buck/boost drivers are most efficient, unregulated ones usually turn an appreciable part of the battery’s energy into heat), how dissipative the flashlight head/body is (besides thermal mass, there’s the matter of its shape, whether they have cooling fins, and even color – black being the most dissipative) and finally whether the light has ATR (automatic temperature regulation) and whether you can change the temperature where it starts stepping down the brightness (like you can with Anduril).

My suggestion is, check for in-depth reviews where the real pros like @tactical_grizzly, @zeroair and @1Lumen do real testing of (among many other things) sustained brightness and publish that in easy-to-read graphs; just as an eg, here’s one for the FC13: Wurkkos FC13 Flashlight Review - ZeroAir Reviews, look for a lumens vs time graph like this one and it shows all you need to know about that light in this regard.

Marketing is designed to do that :slight_smile: but we all here in BLF will be sure to help you not fall in these kinds of traps.

This is a whole other rabbit hole, one I’ve been in for the best part of one year and still learning and doing things. But it’s a hole in the positive sense, and one I strongly recommend :slight_smile:

I’ve seen this light a few months ago, and basically dismissed it as too gimmicky. Having a second look now, and it does look interesting for your use case.

As you pointed out, @tactical_grizzly did a review of it: Sofirn IF23 Review – Too Many Features? – Grizzly's Reviews, and reading through it, I agree with your observations and would just like to add:

  • The auto-lock is really messed up: not only it can’t be disabled as you mentioned, but it memorizes things when it shouldn’t, and fails to provide shortcuts for the most used modes. I really dislike auto-lock and disable it in all my lights and when necessary I use mechanical locking (unscrewing the head or the tail cap just a little bit to break contact), works well enough in most cases and has the added advantage of removing parasitic drain and therefore extending battery duration.
  • CRI on the front channel (throw) is really bad at 60 or so as you also noted. OTOH, it has very good CRI (96+) on the side (flood) channel, so this wouldn’t be a problem for the close-by use cases where flood is normally used.
  • Good moonlight levels at 0.5/2.5 lumens for the front/side channel. The one for the side channel is a little too bright for my taste, but not by too much. This is good for your bathroom use case.
  • DUV is positive for both front/side LEDs and all brightness levels, and specially for the front LED, by a relatively large amount. This will tend to make its beam look quite green, which can be disagreeable for night indoor usage.
  • Good LVP (so the light won’t ruin a battery by discharging it too much), good PWM (basically invisible and inaudible which is good as it tends to be annoying otherwise) and very low parasitic drain (so even if you don’t mechanically lock the light, the battery will take a very long time to be drained – over 7 years in this case). On the flop side, bad ATR aka thermal regulation (like the bad lockout, this would be really easy to fix – actually it would be fixed by default – if Sofirn had just used Anduril for this light, or at least made it possible for us to reflash it, neither would be a problem).
  • Re: flashing, this pic from the review seems to show 4 pads visible inside the head, just like in the Sofirn SC28 as I pointed in my mini-review; I asked @Barry0892 and @sofirn right there whether they could be used for reflashing the light but got no response, so I’m presuming they can’t (which is quite sad, as flashing could help us overcome any and all such UI problems like the bad autolock and bad ATR on the IF23).
  • The review points to some competing lights, and the Lumintop E21C looks very similar, you might want to investigate it further to see whether it has the same shortcomings pointed above. But I shoud say I like Sofirn more as a brand: Lumintop is not a bad brand (I have a Tool AA 2.0 UV from them and it’s a great little UV light) but Sofirn has presence here in BLF and interacts with us enthusiasts and this counts a great deal in my book. Anyway, here’s an in-depth review of the E21C: Lumintop E21C Flashlight Review - ZeroAir Reviews, I gave it only a cursory read but haven’t seen the author complaining about either auto-lock or ATR, so perhaps it’s an option, albeit as he points out, a more expensive one ($100 vs $32 for the IF23).

Hope this helps!

No matter what you get in your wish-list light, pick up a TS10. 4000K and orange LEDs is my perfect combo. You’ll thank me later.

I got an assload of coffee-table lights right here, and the light I go for pretty much all the time is the TS10. 14500 so limited capacity, but I’m inside and can charge it in a jiffy, so who cares? I even swapped in one of those 14430s with the built-in charging circuit, so all I need is a usb cable and not even a physical charger.

General purpose light? Go floody. Throwy is great if you’re outside looking for the USS Star Track, but for all practical indoor use, you want floody. At this point, using a “throwy” light to find something in a cupboard or in the basement is like searching with a laser-pointer.

I have no idea why people want a powerbank function in a light. You end up with a charged-up phone but a dead light. You want a powerbank, get a powerbank. Then you can have a charged-up phone and light.

And get a hydra cable which has C/micro/lightning, and you won’t have to care about converting everything you own to C from micro. In fact, you’ll be able to charge a doodad with C and a doodad with micro, at the same time from the same powrbank/adapter/etc.

Diving lights completely aside here - but if you want decent fluid IP w/o a horrible, mostly-worthless rubber plug, keep in mind that these are ‘a thing’ now. You won’t find them on the ‘cheapest’ lights, because they’re not the ‘cheapest’ connectors. They’re out there though. My newest light has one (or the equivalent thereof):

https://www.amphenol-cs.com/product-series/waterproof-usb-type-c.html

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In Asia my first choice is not available. A close second that clearly doesn’t meet everything on your list is the Armytek C2 Pro Nichia.
4500k high cri.
Three different Firefly or moonlight modes to choose from. This is important for what you want.
A very wide smooth floody beam that you will immediately love.
The best clip out there.
The fact that you can also use it as a headlight is just an added bonus.
I could go on but I’ll stop there.
In the US a 3000k version is available from one retail outlet. That would be my first choice.

But I figured 'if it peaks at 2000-4000, it should be able to do ~1000 lumens sustained"

This is not an accurate assumption. Some flashlights can sustain their maximum level. Others do not have a sustainable level at all (every level has output that depends on battery voltage). Most are limited by heat, but the sustainable level is often unrelated to the maximum output. Some sustain a higher level in a cold, wet, windy environment than they would in warm, still air.

Most reviewers these days include runtime graphs that will let you see if there’s a sustainable level. I list it in the specs if there is one.

The EC300 I recommended sustains about 650 lumens, which is decent, but not breaking any records. The Acebeam E75 is an option that offers high-CRI LEDs, USB charging, and sustained output closer to 1000 lumens. It’s more rugged and the USB port is sealed better, but does not have colored LEDs or a powerbank function.

I have no idea why people want a powerbank function in a light.

I use one quite a bit. It’s useful for traveling light. Of course it does require thinking about how you’re using power, but having the option to split power between illumination and charging USB devices with non-removable batteries is useful. Bringing a couple spare 21700s is an option.

Thanks for the comment. As said, it’s really just splash resistance I am looking for. So, looking for a torch with this socket specifically may be a bit much. I assume this is not an aftermarket thing, where you pay someone to take whatever light you have and replace the socket for this one.

Nonetheless, appreciate you sharing this.

My view … I typically travel in places where I can just charge from a wall socket or in a pinch use my wife’s power bank or even my iPad to charge my phone. But having yet another layer of redundancy doesn’t hurt.

If it would have drastically reduce my options, I would indeed have let this requirement go. But as it turns out, there are plenty of options even including it. So … why not!?