"Review": Amutorch Stainless Steel XPG3-S3 AA flashlight [Modded TIR Lenses]

Yeah, a little…

This helped though:


The head of that light is glued, so i can’t replace the reflector with a TIR.
So i stuck on a piece of DC-fix (adhesive diffuser film)

Yup, there’s a tint shift yes! This is a small smooth reflector, made from plastic, so the quality may not help!
As Jack Kellar asked, I don’t know if a OP reflector would avoid that shifting, but I haven’t found such a small OP reflector to try it here!

I also think that a different tint LED may not shift so much, namely NW ones.

The best option I found, so far, was the pebbled lens! The others always leave something not quite well, the beam, the spill, the spot…
At least, the pebbled creates a uniform spill.

About the DC-fix, I couldn’t find it yet, but I also didn’t search that much too!
Is that a Sofirn SP32? Mine has that same effect. But so far I’m not yet annoyed with it :stuck_out_tongue:

That would be a “flood” i think.
Spill is the bit that is not collimated by the reflector.
A TIR has a little lens in the centre to collimate what would normally be the spill.
(So a TIR is usually a ‘Total Internal Reflection’ optic plus a small lens in the middle)

Member ‘Boaz’ sells pieces of it, there’s a topic somewhere.
You can search the forum for it, and i believe a French member also has some for sale.

Yep, that’s a Sofirn SP32. :slight_smile:
I volunteered to review it so they sent me one.
It’s a nice light. I like the Cree 3A tint (5000K)

I agree, in real life you can live with it, but i think tint shift is very annoying when you notice it.
And once you have noticed it, you always notice it… :smiley:
I have another XP-L2 light with a 20mm 30° pebbled TIR and it has virtually no tin shift, not even on a white wall.

Yep, nice yellow “yolk” in the middle, cooler/whiter “white” around the outside.

I wondered how a 4C could look so yellow when it’s really not. Ceiling-bounce from my S2+ (when I scalded myself leaving it unattended 5-10min) looked quite nice overall, nowhere near as yellow.

Finally dawned on me that it’s the tint-shift doing it. Actually, that’s a misnomer. It’s not “shifting” any overall tint. Yellower light that comes out at more oblique angles hits the reflector and is focussed into the hotspot. Yellow! Less-yellow light coming straight out from the LED normal to the surface doesn’t hit the reflector but continues straight out to form the spill. White!

Through a TIR where you’re doing a better job collecting all the light no matter what the angle, it blends everything together quite nicely, giving that 4C a real 4500K look, or whatever it’s supposta be.

Thanks for the explanation about what is the spill! Sometimes I use the terminology in incorrect ways, so fell free to correct me whenever is necessary :wink:

About the DC fix, I already saw one of those posts and already participated in the thread, I may search for it! I guess that some lights can benefit from that, and maybe the SP32 is one of them, although I still like to have it like it is.
It does have that spot and tint shift, but I’m not unhappy with it !
And I agree with you, I’m becoming more and more attentive to the beams, spots, tints, tint shifts and all of that!!! :open_mouth:

Gotta try the DC-Fix to see what happens! Maybe I could apply that to other lights too… :sunglasses:
Thanks for the tip and help on this !

Yup, agree too! However, I’m still using the original OP reflector that came with the light! :stuck_out_tongue: I have some TIR around, so maybe I will try them someday !!

I just made a review / comparison between these Amutorch XPG3-S3 and with a similar flashlight from Neal using a Nichia 219C.
You can take a look at it here: Comparison: Stainless Steel AA Flashlight – Amutorch XPG3-S3 vs “Neal’s” Nichia 219C :+1:

The XP-G3 is one of the things that attracted me to this light , but is probably the worst part of it! , cool hot spot , wide yellow ring around this then a dark unlit ring , then spill, Like a target!

The change in colours across the beam is unpleasant to me, But understand this is a symptom of the newer Cree design (xp-g3, xpl-2 etc) with the phosphor higher up in the dome.

Swopped a XP-G2 into it , This gave a more uniform colour across the beam but with same rings.

Lastly put in a XML-2 , Jerommel said it would fit under the TIR nicely and he is quite right, This gives defused hotspot and less rings with no colour change , I have settled on this set up.

The rest of the light I really like , very well machined and good looking , using it with a Lifepo4 14500 , this boosts the output a bit over NIMH , modes well spaced.

Clicky is nice to the feel and stainless cap good , is a bit “ping- pong” rather than “click- click” in sound, different but fine.

Clip sticks out over the top of the light above screws and gives a wobbly tail stand, fairly easily fixed by removing clip and filing it down a little so it sits below top of light and is stands stably.

Hey, thanks for sharing your experience on this Sivy :wink:
Yup, the LED tint is not so good but changing the lens as I did, it becomes not so Cool, it tends to Neutral tint!

Got some questions for you, so!

May I ask which XML2 did you put? And do you use it with the original TIR lens?
I’m asking as I want to change one to XML2 T6-3B , but I guess it won’t fit properly in the pebbled/hive TIR lens, so I may have to use the original lens or a reflector!

Do you have any picture to get a notion of how the XML2 works? I’d be glad to see it :slight_smile:

Have you compared LiFePO4 with 14500 in terms of temperature and luminosity on max output? If so, did you feel any significant difference between those?

Thanks in advance :+1:

I put in an XM-L2 on a 15mm star I had spare from upgrading something to XPL-HI, Cool white , probably too cool for many on here but I was mostly after getting rid of the rings of different colours the XP-G3 gave.

Fitted straight in under the standard Amutorch TIR.

Lifepo4 probably bumps output to 250lms ish and IMR 14500 to around 450lms ish, IMR gets hotter faster.



Thanks Sivy :wink:
Hum, the XML2 looks pretty good, I like it! It is a bit like Convoy S2+ Tan version with XPL-HI U6-3A! I’ll have to see how it works with a different lens :nerd_face:
There’s a huge shift of the XPG3 on the original lens. When using a reflector or a pebbled lens it tends to get more homogeneous, but not as much as an original Neutral LED!

About the batteries, thanks for the information as well! I only have Ni-MH or 14500 (Sanyo UR14500P, I guess they are not IMR) batteries. I thought it would worth to get the LiFePO4 but maybe I’ll stick with those I have.
Even when using the Ni-MH on high for a while it gets a bit hot, the pill and the host are thin! But for indoors environments, so far the Ni-MH have been enough in the brightness produced !
Thanks again :+1:

Yesterday I decided to make a small change to one of my Amutorch! I took the original driver out and put one of the Reylight (4 modes: ML-L-M-Hm with the lowest moonlight I’ve ever seen :open_mouth: but, sadly, with PWM on Low, Medium and High modes :person_facepalming: )

I also changed the emitter, placing a XML2 U2-1A that I ended up damaging due to the TIR lens I was using. Later I put the XPG3-S3 back in the place and while I’m waiting for 2 XML2 LEDs to arrive (T6-3B and T6-4C).

Here’s are some pics (click on them to get bigger images):

Left to Right:
XPG3-S3 / Original TIR > XPG3-S3 / Pebbled TIR > XML2 U2-1A / SMO Reflector > Nichia 219C / Pebbled TIR

Left to Right:
XPG3-S3 / Original TIR > XPG3-S3 / Pebbled TIR > XPG3-S3 / Original TIR / Reylight Driver > Nichia 219C / Pebbled TIR

On Ni-MH batteries

On 14500 Li-Ion batteries

Original Driver > Reylight Driver

As mentioned above, the Reylight driver has PWM in L, M and H (perceivable in the photos) modes, and emits a “buzzzz” in these 3 modes. With 14500 batteries, that noise is even louder and it is not so comfortable to use the light due to that.
Also on 14500, on High mode, apparently it produces the same amount of light (or maybe a bit more) than the original driver, using the original emitter and lens.

On Ni-MH cells, the original driver seems to have a gain in all modes in terms of luminosity (it doesn’t have Moonlight, though).

Despite the photos don’t show that (and I damaged the XML2 before taking more photos :person_facepalming: ), the XML2 produces a better and more intense beam inside the original TIR lens, as Sivy showed above.

The tint of the XML2 U2-1A inside a pebbled lens seems to tend more to Neutral White as the original XPG3. When it’s inside the Original TIR lens, it “goes back” to Cool White tint.

I have 2 XML2 on the way and I’ll try them both with the original driver and with the Reylight driver. My guess is that I’ll opt for the original due to the “buzz” on 3 modes, despite the incredible Moonlight mode.

Perhaps with those LEDs the Original TIR lens makes more sense and produces a better beam.

So far, my favourite “versions” are using the +pebbled +lens with the XPG3 and the Nichia.

Well, once again I made some changes in these lights (well, at least in 1 of them :smiley: )
I replaced the original LED XPG3-S3 for a XML2 T6-4C and then replaced the already installed Reylight driver for the original one (3 modes, PWM in L and H).
I kept the original TIR lens, not pebbled.

Some comparisons (Left to Right) [click the photos to see them bigger]:

XML2 T6-4C / Original TIR > XPG3-S3 / Pebbled TIR > XPG3-S3 / Original TIR > Nichia 219C / Pebbled TIR

XPG3-S3 / Original TIR > XML2 T6-4C / Original TIR

XML2 T6-4C / Original TIR > Nichia 219C / Original TIR

Convoy S2 / Pebbled TIR+ > Nichia 219C / Pebbled TIR > XML2 T6-4C / Original TIR

Convoy S2 / Pebbled TIR+ > Nichia 219C / Original TIR > XML2 T6-4C / Original TIR

Convoy S2 / SMO Reflector+ > Nichia 219C / Original TIR > XML2 T6-4C / Original TIR

Convoy S2 / Pebbled TIR+ > XPG3-S3 / Pebbled TIR > Nichia 219C / Pebbled TIR

Price (for 2 lights, with seller and AliExpress coupons): 27,95€ (got 1 free light, so the price was below 10€ each)

Is this action over? I can not find any hints.

How should I proceed for the best price?

Hi and welcome to BLF :wink:
Hum, can’t say if the deal is over, maybe you have to contact the seller to confirm it ! It is better that way!
This is the link for the store, though:

Enjoy it here :sunglasses:

Now i found the new offer. In the main picture he wrote: Buy 3 and get 4.

Without an 4 $ aliexpress Coupon (now not available) it’s not good enough. Also with 4 $ Coupon it is to much. 13,50 (12,50) $ for 1.

On Banggood in Action to 13,99 $.

Hey all, after living on my wish list for a very long time, I finally purchased this light recently. Must say, I’m impressed with the machining and appearance. VERY nice, and the pictures don’t do it justice.

Most of the previous reviews have found the same things as I, so I won’t repeat them. Only thing I noticed is that the pill is actually made it SS, not Al.

I’ve modded mine with an ET D25a reflector from KD. I don’t have a lense in it currently, but plan to laser cut one from a giant UCLp lense I’m about to purchase. I also swapped in a sliced dome 219B-V1, originally 5700k I believe. Can’t be sure anymore as it’s been in a misc emitters bin for years. I adore the tint. Right around a 5b1, which has been my favorite through the years. Rendering is great, especially dyed blacks and dark blues. Virtually no tint shift across the whole beam. I have a sliced dome sst20w in 4k waiting to try and de-thrown it, but the tint is greenish until driven hard (where it is then ‘perfect’). Should be more efficient, but tint + consistency is King for me these days. We’ll see…

PS. We should do a group buy on these things. They’d make great Christmas gifts! Especially if modded! I want a few more myself.

This redirects to https://ad.admitad.com which in turn redirects to aliexpress.

To me it is direct!
Considering that it was posted a while ago, something might have happened!

Here: link :wink:

You can use developers tools in your browser to look up the traffic. I use request policy extension for Firefox so it asks me for permission whenever some site redirects to another address.
The first redirection is https://ad.admitad.com/g/1e8d114494f1d922c09a16525dc3e8/?subid=k0y91j0d2z0002cl02g08&ulp=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fitem%2FNewest-Cree-XPG3-LED-EDC-flashlight-Small-stainless-steel-flashlight%2F32807845227.html%3Fspm%3D2114.search0104.3.9.qH1SaY%26ws_ab_test%3Dsearchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10068_5410020_10304_10307_10301_10137_10060_10155_10154_5370011_10056_10055_10054_10059_100031_10099_5400020_10103_10102_5430011_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_5380020_5390020_10084_10083_10119_10080_10082_10081_10177_10110_10111_5420020_10112_10113_10114_10312_10313_10314_10315_10078_10079_10073_10120-10120%2Csearchweb201603_19%2CppcSwitch_5%26btsid%3D1764e1c9-2c8b-48dc-bfd6-8b19ffeaac5f%26algo_expid%3De2d36ba5-d700-4e58-84e0-8cb23b14c561-1%26algo_pvid%3De2d36ba5-d700-4e58-84e0-8cb23b14c561%26transAbTest%3Dae803_3

BTW, the Ali link that you just posted in full is…

Looks like affiliate link, opposed to a much shorter

Actually, all youse need is


because all the other crap specifies the account, order, “snapshot” in time when it was placed, all that garbage.

Same like Amazon links where you can stop after the asin (B073X… number), imdb (tt/nm/etc. number), and so on.

Eg, you can have


or just


or best of all just