[Review] Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia

For years I was reading about Armytek everywhere. Some people were amazed by their quality, others were more reluctant or had bad experience with their products and customer service. That’s the point where you have to experience the product yourself. I got the chance to get one from Armytek for this review and am finally in the position to form my own opinion.

Today on the menu: Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia

This review is also available in German on my website: SammysHP Blog › Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia



Supplied parts and hardware

  • 18650 Li-ion battery with 3500 mAh (3.54 V on delivery)
  • Clip
  • 2x replacement o-ring
  • Magnetic charging cable
  • Quick start guide (EN, DE, FR, RU, FI, SE, NO, PL)

The quick start guide contains a QR code that lets you download the full manual as a PDF. Saves paper and most functions are sufficiently explained in the quick start guide.



And here it is, my first Armytek flashlight! With so many variants and models over the years, but some design elements stayed the same. The body has a black anodization, but very matt. This allows a secure handling even without knurling, but makes it harder to clean.



  • Length: 113 mm
  • Diameter: 24.5 – 30 mm
  • Weight: 63 g / 112 g with battery

More on the long size for a 18650 headlamp, but relatively light. Here is a comparison with other right angle lights: Manker E02II | ZebraLight H52Fw | Skilhunt H04 | Sofirn SP40 | Armytek Wizard | Wurkkos HD20





The head has an interesting shape. Not round, not square, slightly rounded here and there. Interesting, but it always rolls over one “edge”.



Charging of the battery is possible using the magnetic charging port in the tailcap. Good solution to protect against water and dirt, but it requires the special charging adapter.



First you have to unscrew the tailcap slightly. Then it’s enough to move the light near the charging adapter and it will snap in place. Perfect! There are two status LEDs in the adapter:

Color

Status

green

Standby / charging finished

red flashing

Loosen tailcap

orange flashing

Voltage too low or dirty contacts

red

Charging (1 A)

orange

Charging with reduced power (0.5 A)



The magnetic tailcap can also be used for attaching the light. The magnet is strong enough to hold the flashlight horizontal safely. There’s no risk for a short: The center contact is recessed, with tightened tailcap both contacts have the same potential and with loosened tailcap there’s also no current.



The tailcap is sealed with two o-rings against water. The flashlight is rated as IPX8. Both sides have strong springs to guarantee a good contact with the battery.



A headlamp must be attached to the head, of course. The Wizard includes a plastic mount with an additional strap over your head. The light is clipped to it and can be secured with an o-ring. For me it feels comfortable, doesn’t move around and stays where you want it to be.



Apart from that you can use the clip for attachment. There are two ways to assemble it, but both are not perfect: In variant 1 the clip is not flush with the battery tube because of the cooling fins. In variant 2 it slightly rubs against the tailcap and the opening is partly covered.



The matt anodization appears to be very sensitive and easy to scratch. Here you can see the marks after the first usage of the clip. But any light will show wear after some time, so it’s not a big issue for me.



The head is glued and the electronics fully potted. Armytek advertises that it will survive drops of 10 m height.


User interface and features

The prominent and colorful part of the flashlight is the electronic switch at the side of the head. It is used to control all functions.



You have the choice between two UIs. In the “general UI” some levels and features like strobe are omitted.

State

Action

Function

Off

1C

Turn on (previous mode)

Off

1H

On

1C

Turn off

On

2C

Turbo (last used turbo in advanced UI)

On

1H

All features are available in the “advanced UI”. To switch between both UIs, slightly unscrew the tailcap, keep the button pressed, tighten the tailcap and release the button.

State

Action

Function

Off

1C

Turn on (previous mode)

Off

2C

Turn on (main group)

Off

3C

Turn on (turbo group)

Off

4C

Turn on (strobe group)

Off

1H

On

1C

Turn off

On

2C

Switch between firefly and main group

On

3C

Turbo group

On

4C

Strobe group

On

1H

The switch includes a backlight that shows the aproximate state of charge when the flashlight is on.

Voltage

Color

> 3.4 V

green flashing (every five seconds)

3.1 – 3.4 V

orange flashing (every two seconds)

2.8 – 3.1 V

red flashing (every second)

2.65 – 2.8 V

Firefly without switch LED

< 2.65 V

Flashlight turns off

When the temperature rises from high power, the switch indicated the temperature.

Color

Temperature

3x orange flashes (every two seconds)

Warning, flashlight gets warm

3x red flashes (every second)

Too hot, output will be reduced

You can configure the switch backlight to blink every five seconds when the flashlight is off. To change the setting, slightly unscrew the tailcap, hold the button pressed, tighten and loosen the tailcap, then release the button.



While it switch is pressed, it lights up red. Feedback in addition to the loud and solid click. The swich is easy to find because of it’s location. It’s also protruding some millimeters, so be careful while carrying it in your pocket. Mechanical lockout is possible.



I’m mostly happy with the usability. Intuitive UI, easy to find switch.


Illumination

Besides a cool white and a warm white version with a Cree XHP50.2 LED the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro is also available with a Nichia 144A LED – slightly less powerful, but higher CRI (>90), 4500 K and slightly rosy. It’s the version I have tested here.



The large LED is further diffused by the pebbled TIR and creates a very floody and even beam. For a headlamp this is ideal because it prevents tunnel vision. Throw is reduced a lot, of course, but in my opinion not required in a headlamp.



Driver and runtime

For the price you can expect a good driver. The Wizard uses a boost driver that is able to keep the output mostly independent of the battery voltage and provides a good efficiency.

Mode

Brightness (from manufacturer)

Runtime (from manufacturer)

Current (measured)

Turbo 2

1600/440 lm

1 min + 2:55 h

5.7 A

Turbo 1

750/440 lm

5 min + 3 h

1.9 A

Main 3

250 lm

6:40 h

0.53 A

Main 2

90 lm

16 h

0.21 A

Main 1

34 lm

43 h

0.07 A

Firefly 3

4.6 lm

12 d

–––

Firefly 2

1 lm

40 d

–––

Firefly 1

0.1 lm

200 d

–––

Off

–––

–––

13 µA

I’m not able to measure the absolute brightness, but because of the very floody beam it feels different than throwy flashlights anyway. The advertised runtime mostly matches my measurements. The output will be reduced when the flashlight reaches about 55 °C. My test of turbo 1 is shorter than advertised because I slightly cooled the light and it didn’t throttle down.

After all tests it was still running at a low firefly level and the battery was at about 2.85 V. So still hours of firefly left.



There’s no PWM, but some levels have very minor ripple. Not visible at all.

Charging runs at either 1 A or 0.5 A depending on the power source. But I noticed that it’s not the usual CC/CV method. Instead the charger starts pulsing at some point. While there are some pulsed charging methods for li-ion batteries, usually they run at several Hz. The Armytek charger turns the output off for some seconds every minute or so. After 3.5 h the battery is fully charged to 4.17 V. Not sure how this charging method affects the battery life.

Btw, the magnetic charging in the tailcap doesn’t contain any magic. The center contact is connected to the negative pole of the battery, the outside with the host. When the tailcap is tightened, the battery tube presses against the tailcap PCB and both contacts have the same potential. When it is loosened, the connection is broken and the body becomes the positive pole for charging.


Conclusion

The Wizard has mostly satisfied my expectations. It appears to be tough, is easy to use, has comfortable magnetic charging and – especially in the Nichia version – has a beautiful beam.

On the other hand the anodization might be less robust. Also the charging method might wear the battery faster than necessary.

Currently you can get the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro in the official Armytek shop with 15% discount by using the code SAMMYSHP15. I’m not sure if it will work in all international stores, just try it out.

2 Thanks

Nice review! This is by far my favorite and most used light. Great for everything from biking to car repairs. Unfortunately the tailcap is not the most robust design. The spring board is only glued in place- and not very well! Mine literally fell out when I was lightly cleaning and living the threads one day. I was able to glue it back in but it does make me doubt how waterproof that charging port is. No specific pressure on the very small o ring around the center post, just the pressure provided by the glue and the battery spring.

Nice review SammysHP! Looks like a great high CRI headlamp.

I wish they went for a H04 sized body instead of this bulky design.


Nice review! I’ve had mine for years and been dependable so far as my work light. Warm xhp50

Some additional observations I like to add:

The TIR optic is protected by glass lens with green AR coating.

If you press the button extremely fast, the button press is ignored and the button shortly flashes green+red.

I was curious how the power consumption behaves with the locator LED turned on. So I measured it with an oscilloscope. It’s so low that it can run for years.

1 Thank

I just tried that stabbing it really fast with the bone at the end of finger and can sometimes not fully trigger the light.
Armytek says 25 years on the beacon. Probably only with a 3500 mha. For those that don’t know it’s a tiny flash of green on the switch every 4 seconds. They say it’s less power than the self-discharge rate of batteries. Obviously that’s theoretical because they haven’t had these lights in operation for 25 years. Mine’s been flashing on the pro model for 2 years. I think if I was ever in a situation with a high likelihood of losing or misplacing it in a given limited situation, just turning it on to the lowest Firefly mode is probably a better solution. 200 days run time. I always shut it off now in the lowest Firefly mode so that if it inadvertently comes on it’s not going to cause problems. Yes, there have been problems but I would not change the switch design.

Does the LED flicker on Low and Medium modes?

No, why should it do that? The only “flicker” I can measure is a very low ripple (have to check again for frequency and amplitude, but IIRC it was in the 100 kHz range with <5%) and a very short dip (milliseconds) when the switch blinks and the light is in a low mode (the regulator needs some time to adjust).

My Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia has a noticeable flicker on Low and Medium. I was wondering if that’s normal or just a faulty driver.

I currently have the C2 Pro mounted to my bicycle and I’m using it as s flood light. The flickering isn’t really noticeable when travelling fast. I can’t really unsee the flickering when using it as a headlamp.

I think that’s not normal. Will make some measurements in a few hours.

I’ve had the C2 pro warm xhp50.2 for almost 2 years. 3950K. 83.4 Cri and slightly below the line in most modes. The Opple says “No Risk” of flicker in any mode. In the past I’ve read that the pro nichia was being driven at the same 12 volts as the xhp50. So I would assume the same is true for the C2 Pro 50.2 and nicha.
I recently ordered another C2 pro xhp50.2 warm and noticed some changes. 4030K 71.5 CRI. WTF? And not below the line. And the Green flash/locator switch indicator is now a lot brighter. The entire switch lights up green rather than just the top portion. I bought it mostly as a backup and with the thought of possibly switching to a 50.3 3000k high cri. Now I’m going to have to switch it.
So are they all 12 volts? Has anybody been into these C2 pros with the larger bezels? Will the MCPCP come out, easy?

One hour later ™ … Output of Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia:



Main 2:



Main 1:

You can measure the blinking of the switch every five seconds in the output (but you can’t see it). This is just the beginning, zoomed in:

Interesting how the current required for the switch LED affects the output:



Firefly 2:



Firefly 1:



Visible flicker looks differently in my opinion.

It’s no different than seeing the lights (incandescent) dim for a split second when a large motor or load starts in a house.
As for the charging behavior. I see the same behavior charging my phone watching a USB meter and some other lights with onboard charging. Amperage will occasionally drop to near zero for one to two seconds and then come back up. This new armytek charger just seems to do it much more frequently during the constant current phase. I believe the charger is simply checking resistance and possibly voltage and then proceeding. Edit. My indicator flashes 15.5 times per minute. 3.8 Seconds.

Thanks for measuring!

It´s not the first time that Armytek changes the Led for another totally different. How significantly different it’s the new warm compared with the old?