This particular switch is rated at 1A and really can’t handle more long-term.
And this fact makes all other improvements completely useless.
Djozz, are you going to start making Convoy M2 Djozz bezels now?
Cant say if the old bezel will fit the new Convoy M2 since I don't have the old one.
Thanks for comments anyone. I appreciate comments and feedback. Feel free to ask any questions in case there were stuff that the review did not cover. I hope the review wasn't too much. Im sure many just skipped all parts that were not interesting, but one thing led to another and I had made one large review.. as usual...
Most Omten switches are rated 1,5A (those who are a bit larger). All of them seem to reliably handle 7-15A+ long term depending on what switch it is. I have never had one of these fail on me. And I have yet to hear of one that does not handle easily 5x the rated current or more.
The switch is about the same size as in several other lights. ZY-T08, xintdX3, Roche F8, etc etc... Fitting a larger Omten switch (not the largest square one) that I know for sure can handle 10A without issues seems possible, but until the stock switch shows any issues (which I doubt it will), I dont think that is necessary. I have been running 5A+ continuous through similar small Omten switches without issues.
Have you tested that switch long term with high amps and had issues?
No, they will never be djozz-bezels, there's a trademark on that you know, a feel even hesitant making one without permission from he who is not around anymore. The only correct term is: Foybezeltm
3 of 3 Omten 1288 swiches I used failed in 6 month (average).
All came from different sources, all were used at 2-2.1A. They have ridiculously small contact area and huge contact resistance (about 5 times greater than larger Omtens).
I did some testing on these switches ( https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27675 ) and in those tests the resistance of the small Omten was about 2 times that of the larger Omten (I did not test the big square one). That small switch could handle 16A for a few hours.
It does not say everything about real longterm use of course, with oxides building up on the surfaces and everything.
I think Foy would have liked these P60 sized Convoys.
For those who have no clue what we are talking about. (More Foybezel`s here)
The main issues with the M2 bezel is that its too skinny to trim down to anything that looks beefy can classy. The weight of it is almost 1/3rd of the bezel on my L2T (pictured in OP).
Thanks for info. Ill have to do some testing then.
Edit: How have your switches failed? Where did they come from?
Welcome to the forum Skytrooper!
Thanks for the comment.
:beer:
BTW, it’s been reported that these black 1288 (had they come from Simon?) are a bit better than white ones.
I have no personal experience with them though.
I like what they did to the pill. Unfortunately I still have three original M2 hosts from when FT first introduced them, though they did come with two different bezels. I wonder why they decided to redesign the pill? Most probably the integral pill saves manufacturing costs for them but gives us better thermal transfer. I wonder if the M1 is next for an upgrade?
If it saves manufacturing costs then its a win/win IMO. Espesially when its done like in the M2, where there is a brass ring that will hold a 17mm 7135 based driver.
I have been wondering about the same when it comes to the M1. The host (OEM D4) have been on sale at CNQ for only 9$ for some time now. Clearance sale? (Convoy M1= OEM D4, no brand)
On a side note I picked up the OEM E2 host for 19$ (AKA Convoy L5) which is also on sale.
Got a PM from a member who wondered about wire clearance to the reflector. Might as well share pictures with everyone.
As can be seen. Clearance is good. :)
Im doing a bit of switch testing at 6A+
Wires directly on each side of the switch. Tried high amp through the spring, but that heated up quickly (as expected). I always copper braid at 3A+ (or use wire depending on the spring) in order to minimize voltage sag, avoid heat buildup or "burned out" spring.
Any tips on how to test the switch nicely? (I don't plan do a a crash test on purpose). Only tested it 25 min with 6A+ continuous so far and no real noticeable heat buildup or issues.
TY for the review. Nice option in the pocket-able size. 4up xpl + blf17dd anyone? - :-)
Constant current testing isn’t very representative.
Set some realistic current (say, 3A; or you can leave it as it is at 6A) and click the switch off and on again once in a 5 minutes or so - it will be much closer to the real use.
Thanks for the great review.
:beer:
I have actually played with the thought. But with probably 12A+++ peak current its so much more convenient to do that in a light with E-switch only. Or a twisty.
The M2 switch board is about 17mm (not larger). The slightly larger Omten switch that I have is 17,32mm + wire connections. Might be able to make it fit with some trimming and customization in the tailcap, but not something I would be tempted to try. Im talking about the rounded PBS101C, middle sized Omten switch in the test Djozz did.
Any links for the Omten PBS101C switch. I only have the larger rectangular models.
Thanks for the great review, looking forward to get mine, with same tint and *8 
OK, I have some of those. I thought you were talking about a smaller round Omten.
Ah.. Never had the need to buy any of those.
These switches are the same size as the one in the NEW M2:
The ones from Simon does not say Omten in the add.
These from CNQ say Omten. Not sure if there is a difference.
What type of switch is in the "OLD" M2?
For my tests I asked around how to test a switch properly as well. The consensus was long-term high amps kills a switch, not so much the number of clicks. The design in mind I also do not see how the clicking itself should kill the switch apart from wearing out the 'ball-point' mechanism (which system is proven to be reliable in trazillions of ballpoint pens around the world :-) ). What I can think off the best way to kill it is not use it for a while, let oxidation build up (humid conditions help), then switch it on once at high amps, the resistance will be higher than usual and heat will build up. Clicking it a few times before leaving the switch on will probably reduce the resistance again.
Oxidation builds up not only from atmosphere-induced factors, but also (and actually this is main cause) from arcing which occurs with every click