TY for the review. Nice option in the pocket-able size. 4up xpl + blf17dd anyone? - :-)
Constant current testing isn’t very representative.
Set some realistic current (say, 3A; or you can leave it as it is at 6A) and click the switch off and on again once in a 5 minutes or so - it will be much closer to the real use.
Thanks for the great review.
:beer:
I have actually played with the thought. But with probably 12A+++ peak current its so much more convenient to do that in a light with E-switch only. Or a twisty.
The M2 switch board is about 17mm (not larger). The slightly larger Omten switch that I have is 17,32mm + wire connections. Might be able to make it fit with some trimming and customization in the tailcap, but not something I would be tempted to try. Im talking about the rounded PBS101C, middle sized Omten switch in the test Djozz did.
Any links for the Omten PBS101C switch. I only have the larger rectangular models.
Thanks for the great review, looking forward to get mine, with same tint and *8 
OK, I have some of those. I thought you were talking about a smaller round Omten.
Ah.. Never had the need to buy any of those.
These switches are the same size as the one in the NEW M2:
The ones from Simon does not say Omten in the add.
These from CNQ say Omten. Not sure if there is a difference.
What type of switch is in the "OLD" M2?
For my tests I asked around how to test a switch properly as well. The consensus was long-term high amps kills a switch, not so much the number of clicks. The design in mind I also do not see how the clicking itself should kill the switch apart from wearing out the 'ball-point' mechanism (which system is proven to be reliable in trazillions of ballpoint pens around the world :-) ). What I can think off the best way to kill it is not use it for a while, let oxidation build up (humid conditions help), then switch it on once at high amps, the resistance will be higher than usual and heat will build up. Clicking it a few times before leaving the switch on will probably reduce the resistance again.
Oxidation builds up not only from atmosphere-induced factors, but also (and actually this is main cause) from arcing which occurs with every click
Isn't arcing (a spark that goes through air) a thing that happens at high voltages? At 33kV/cm you get an arc in dry air, so at our 4V an arc is generated when the contact plates are at a distance of 1 micrometer, the plates are such a short period so close to each other that that is completely negligible. So arcing is not happening in a flashlight. This is theory of course, am I missing something?
EDIT: sorry for being a bit strict about the definition above, what does occur is when the contact plates have their first contact at a very small area, the resistance is high for a brief moment and heating up to melting point of the metal can occur in that very small area for a very short time. I would not call that an arc, but it does cause wear on the contact plates.
Thanks for the input djozz. I might do a long term high current test and report back. If so, I need a fan or put my test emitters on a much larger heatsink.
My Convoy S2+ uses the same little black Omten switch. My light have seen a lot of abuse since i put the 5Amp LD-2 prototype driver in it. Several tests running a high dischage battery from full to almost empty. LOTS of mode changes. Lots of high temperature testing. Zero switch issues.
My Convoy S6 (Mine is OEM) is using the white tiny Omten swtich. I have measured over 10A at the tail (Triple XP-G2 on copper + BLF 17DD) I have not killed the switch. Although, that light have not seen that much use after the rebuild. A good amount of use before with a 3A driver.
Considering the amount of Convoy lights that is sold, which uses these small Omten switches, and how many on BLF that have increased the output I find it very strange that I have not heard of any switches failing when AlexTG have reported 3/3 broken switches in 6 months that been running 2-2,1A.
Similar sized switch (not sure if its exactly the same on the inside) is used in ZY-T08, Xintd X3 and various other lights that many have modded. I have not heard anything of switch issues.
Im not trying to defend Convoy, or the tiny Omten switches, or tiny switches that im not that familiar with. Just sharing my observations. Knowing more about the switches that failed would help before "spreading fear" that they may not be reliable. First of. Since this is a Convoy review thread. Did any of them come with any Convoy lights? Are they real Omten switches or could they be fake? What type of use have the lights that the switches were installed in been through?
I doubt Convoy would putting the switches in new M-series lights if they had issues with them in previous S-series lights.
Here's a pic of the switch from the original M2 host. There's no markings on the switch.
The original also came with two bezels. A crenelated bezel, and a smooth "Foy" bezel.
I was sitting on the balcony when I took the switch apart and my cat feels that it's his job to swipe anything sitting on the table over the balcony. I had to go outside and crawl around the grass looking for all the little switch parts. All is found, all is good. As I was reinstalling the switch parts, afore mentioned cat grabs the dangling lanyard. Switch parts fly back off the balcony. All is found, all is good.
I gave the light to the cat. I'll find it under the fridge with all his other lights.
lol.. Sounds like your cat is a flashoholic, to some degree. :D Thanks for sharing.
I just call that switch the "square no-name switch", not sure if its the same switch as in many other lights with similar switches, but my Convoy M1 uses a similar switch.
Thanks, I read through the article, something to learn everyday :-) . So the arcing can occur at switching off, rather than switching on. So then a switch profits from high temperature resistant contact plates (no proof, just an observation judging from the colour: the little contact disc in Omten switches seem silver plated) and also from fast breaking the contact upon switching off.
What is worse? Full on/off presses or half presses?
Nice review! How did you get a stock Yezl Y3 at 2.8A? Or is about the same, meaning +/- 14% or so? I measured tail amps on Y3's at 2.45A-2.52A across several cells. Or is the amps to the LED about the same between the two lights? With 2.8A Nanjg's and a good cell, I usually see closer to 2.85A at the tail. For a 2.5A Y3, I'd say the resulting lumens measured makes sense. Is your Y3 performing better than the 3 I measured stock?
Thank Tom!
Regarding the Y3. Cant remember exactly. But im quite sure I saw 2,8A at the tail with a freshly charged Sony 50A 26650. With KP protected 4500mAh I dont think I was seeing more than 2,5A. My Y3 is now in pieces. Waiting for the large maxtoch mcpcb. Did not take many measurements or use it much when it was stock. But my stock lens looked like crap (worst I have ever seen) and had roughly 10% loss. I was surprised it was not worse. I dont have the AR lens yet (since I decided to just order it separately.) Hopefully ill get my Y3 on level with a "hot" HD2010.
I usually see (a bit) above 2,8A on the normal 8x 350mA 7135`s as well.