I’m with Old-Lumens. I can’t see the use of a moonlight mode but I admittedly don’t have a light with moonlight. From the sounds of it it’s “very dim”. If I want anything low light I’ll just use my Olight I1 EOS on low mode. That wouldn’t offend anyone even in the same room.
Because many of us have low-light options within reach, I’d prefer that this light be tailored towards the middle-high lumens range. I think moonlight would be unnecessary. If it’s definitely going to be included, maybe they can have 2 mode options via a solderable star ? Standard low med high, and then another with the moonlight.
Tom, the X6 has a shelf that is quite thick…especially so considering it’s size. The entire head assembly is very robust, the fins are deep and comparatively thin. At 4.51A it warms up fast but doesn’t get hot, so it’s dispersing the heat quite well. So far I’m keeping the original driver, learning to get around the blinkies…it’s one of only 2 or 3 lights I have that still has em.
The very thick brass retaining ring works to pull heat from the driver, it could be modified on the inside to fit around a different driver but in stock trim it’s got a fairly wide contact rim. Really diggin this light!
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that the reflector has a narrow base, not much of a problem when modding as it fits in snug around the emitter with little to worry about shorting out on the pads, even with a 16mm Noctigon.
This is at 4.51A, with a de-domed XM-L2 U2 2C on a 16mm Noctigon. Shots are my usual base with the Canon G1X at ISO 1600, f/5.6 on 28mm wide angle f/5.8 on 112mm zoom each at 1/2 sec exposure. The red oil drum is at 97 yds.
The emitter was de-domed while on high, using the heat generated by the emitter to release the silicone dome while viewing it through a welders lens and putting slight pressure up with a scalpel on the negative side of the emitter after trimming around the base of the dome first. Accomplished in about the same time it takes to read the description of doing it.
Hi Dale, that is very nice beam you have there. The tint of this dedomed XML2 is great, not yellow at all.
Do you feel the dedome technique you used on this one is likely to have better tint than with gasoline?
Thanks!
I used heat to de-dome the XM-L2 U2 2A emitter in this X6. I used gas to de-dome an XP-L V5 2A in my Eagle Tac TX25C2. The XP-L is whiter in side by side comparison. Difficult to tell by eye, but the camera shows the XM-L2 to be more green. I had thought it was pretty dang nice by eye, lol.
Both are nice lights, very different UI and I think the X6 can take more power with a more robust build. It also gives more lux with it’s larger reflector.
Same camera settings, zoomed in to 112mm…the white barn is 610 yds away and getting light from this smallish pocket rocket! :bigsmile:
Technically it throws 490 yds, so it’s understandable that the light reaching that barn is dim. But still, there IS light getting out to 610 yds!
I’d like a moonlight but I think much more important is getting rid of the blinky modes.
Tomorrow I’m gonna test out a few methods for getting rid of the blinkies I seen work on different drivers, if something works great, if not and I try the driver I’m ok with that, got plenty of 105’s on hand and the. I can get exactly the modes I want (I’m not expecting much but its worth a shot. Man my own oscilloscope would really be nice…
Yes, I understood that, but as long as it's flat - no dimple, no unevenness to it, unlike the Warsun's for example. It sounds like it's nice and thick, like a Warsun in that regard. The Yezl Y3 is still about the best I've seen in the "uni-body" (i.e. pill-less) designed lights with the thickness and quality of the emitter shelf (I still called it a pill top because it's the cap of the pill cavity), though the XinTD X3 is very good accept for the dimple in the center of the emitter shelf top.
I used a screwdriver to scrape off the adhesive, then 1000 grit to finish it back up. Took very little time and most of that was cleaning up my own scratches. No center indention, no irregular surface, no machine marks.
Thanks Dale - we'll see what Krono and Neil come up with, hopefully soon. I'll be modding at least a couple, looks like... Gotta start on my Warsun X60 soon as well, with a DD setup...
Yes the “pill” top is perfect, machined after anodizing. I use a brass bristle brush to clean adhesive from down in a head, that way I don’t scratch it up and have to spend a lot of time sanding with a tiny sanding disk down in the head.
Yeah, I knew better but used the screwdriver anyway. The adhesive they used under the star is more solid than I’m used to seeing, not Fujik or anything silicone based to be sure. Still though, the screwdriver only made light scratches so that tells me the aluminum is a high grade.
3 normal well spaced modes are good for me. I believe that the majority who like moonlight already have a better (more floody) light for close up moonlight stuff. My guess is that the majority of the buyers will not use it (on a light like this). Just make low proper low and I believe you are more likely to make more people happy.
Id like to see "wider mode spacing". More like:
H 3A (100%)
M 0,75A (25%)
L 0,035A (1,2%)
Quick off time mode memory
Low voltage warning from 2,7-3V (A double blink every 60sec or something like that)
Med seems too close to the High there, the eye won’t be able to see a lot of difference. I can forego the moon as well, with a nice useable low and Med not a lot brighter for general purpose, then high being a Turbo full on style.
With a 3400mAh cell, it’d have a nice long run time and be an excellent EDC light.
I don't have the X6 but the X2, it has the same driver but the firmware could in theory be different. That said I can not measure the PWM of the X2-driver exactly, but it is high: by waving it fast before my eyes I can not see it, while I can see the PWM of a standard 105C (4KHz) quite clearly.
