Did you just say that you are going to put one XP-G2 and XM-L2 in the same C8??
I sold my last XM-L C8 quite cheap to my cousin.
But im going to build the 612 with a hard driven XP-G2. A hard driven P60 XP-G2 or 2. And even harder driven C8 XP-G2. I plan to do a comparison. Hopefully post some beamshots in this thread.
Im going through most of the tints too. Going to play a little with de-doming.
Should soon finish a 5x XP-G Saik Sa305 with a huge pill. And will probably make a Maglite 3D into a tripe XP-G2 with some nice features.
Already have a SK68 with XP-G2 + another zoom host with XP-G2 on copper sinkpad. I plan to test dual XP-G2 in that host too.
All that should get me a good dose of XP-G (2)s… Single 1. gen XP-Gs never did it for me. So I have mostly been an XM-L guy since the beam is brighter and more useful for my type of use. XM-L2s are just not that much brighter with the typical drivers, especially since I prefer hard driven single emitter lights.
But XP-G2 + copper MCPCB just gives new meaning to those small emitters! And throw is fun! So I got an excuse to try them out in many configurations. :bigsmile: 0:)
one c8 host, twp pills, a collection of different reflectors, sort of see what floats my boat, I suspect it will be a hard driven xp-g2 with a two stage reflector to be honest but we shall see, I’ll have the option to chop and change as I please.
I added some solid core copper wire to replace the spring between the head and body and with some Panasonic PDs, current increased to 1.8A+. I took out the black spacer ring around the emitter and stuck in one of the FT bowtie XM-l gasket.
I have the driver mentioned above and just need too order the glass.
I bought this light just because it was cheap and FT said the batteries could be shipped in a device but this really is a very flexible platform for a mod.
I bought one of these to be my first victim since it look looks easy enough to swap in a new emitter, driver, and glass lens. The driver looks like a press fit into the pill. Is it safe to assume that all I need to do to take it out is to pry it out? After removing the wires to the emitter of course.
Yes that sounds about right. Sometimes therer can be a small flat spot on the driver or a couple small holes unit. Use small prying tool on the fly area. I’ve stuck a small round object on one of the holes before and pries from there too. Not sure if that was a good idea but it worked out okay.
Thanks for the info. The driver seems to have burnt itself out (smells and only the lowest mode works) when I had the light partially disassembled and was playing around with it. Can’t do anymore damage prying it out
