Your probably right….but I have no money 
I completely understand… Happens to me all the time 
Here are a few pictures of my dark gray/titanium colored on. Tail cap reading will be posted shortly as soon as my batteries finish charging.
AWESOME SERGIO! Thank you… Love that grey one… Want that one with U2’s
Dale,
Is there a way to tell apart the T6 & U2’s? I bought this locally off a BLF member and dont know which LED’s these are.
In the boards the emitters are on
I checked the guy you bought it from. Your’s is the same as mine T6
SergioE pretty sure its the T6. the U2 just started listing on ebay and the seller had to buy it 2-3 weeks ago
Got it. Let’s hope for good tail readings! What would be considered descent?
is it bright? Call it good… Thats my litmus test… LOL
The good Kings had tailcap currents in the 6A range. Anything in that ballpark is good, but 8A would be per-emitter equivalent.
I just hope for a good build light, the driver doesn’t matter too much to me; one of those DD drivers that has been pictured is fine because I’ll probably mod it for 3A/emitter regulated.
What would the differences be between the T6 & U2? I’m wondering which one I’d like better…
The difference between T6 and U2 emitters is about 8% higher output with U2, given the same current. On average. That code is the flux bin rating. Cree tests every emitter and gives them a bin rating based on their luminous flux. The flux bin they fall into is what they end up being sold as (similarly, computer CPUs are binned based on their maximum stable operating frequency).
Physically, the emitters look identical. Visually, it is virtually impossible for the human eye to differentiate a 7% change in output. You would need to measure it.
U2 is about 7% brighter than a T6 and that’s mainly it.
There is also the tint issue which is basically a lottery, when U2’s where new they where more likely to be cooler than T6’s but i doubt this is the case anymore.
Have you tried searching on Ebay using:
skyray 6500
?
On U.S. Ebay, I just got 2 pages back. For Buyitnow, I got 25 results, including sellers:
zhilight68
rabbitword88
Hi,
Given the simplicity of the drivers that apparently have, vs. the original SRK (with toroids/inductors, etc.), it seems less likely that any revisions might be inferior quality?
I mean, I guess that they might eliminate the FETs, and go to a “pure” true direct drive, to save some costs, but (a) the resulting light would probably be brighter and (b) the costs of current limiting power-rated resistors might be almost the same as the FETs?
Just guessing.
This is very good info to know about, at least for me, thanks!
That was going to be my other question, tints. I like my lights cool/cold white (6k-7k) Do either of these T6 or U2 come close that tint or color temperature?
Nope, the FETs are there for doing the PWM and strobe modes… current limiting is a side-effect.
Well here is my number on TF Flames. 5.66amps
<a href=Photo Storage | Photobucket target=_blank><img src=http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/blackstang97/IMAG0087.jpg border=0 alt=>
Hi,
Ok, thanks for that info.
I’m still wondering, if the manufacturer were going to try to reduce their costs on this particular light, I’m wondering where would they be able to do that, that would significantly reduce performance? At least from the pics on this thread, it seems like a pretty barebones driver, so maybe somewhere else, like the emitters, or the switch, or…? FYI, I’m not arguing, but just wondering….