REVIEW - SKYRAY KUNG M4!!!!! KING KILLER- (Pics, Light, beamshots, & driver added )

aw, I see. then I join you in this curse. fleas, camels, short arms. Oh, and may you not be able to find a stick or other suitable scratching instrument.

Got a gold one last night for $40.00 with batteries and charger. “I know batteries are poor quality, but I can use them in something” It has already been marked as shipped.

I’m in south east asia, typically shipment from HK 4 weeks. they just use snail mail to save the cost for free shipping :frowning:

Actually in two days i see some bids winning price is $38-39, lesser already…but sometime rise to $50…maybe somebody who doesn’t know the buy it now price…
and below is the lucky guy to get whole package quite cheap eventhough the batteries might go dead anytime soon :smiley:

still try to win the gold one without brand marking :slight_smile:

Well here are the numbers I took with my Actron multimeter:

SRK M4 = 5.66amps on high.
Original SRK U2 from CNQ = 6.36amps on high.

I took beamshots and the throw seems to be idential with the M4 having alot more spill. I will post pictures tonight.

I was referring to the host itself more than the driver. The finish is really good right now, but I fear that a second build could see changes made to cut corners there.

I would use four NANJGs (one QLite as a master, three slaves) and wire one emitter to each f them.

Got the pictures back!!! YAYYYYYYYYY!!! :bigsmile:

I had a big long post typed up the other day and hit the save button, and the server was down and my post disappeared into the sunset, oh well.
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On the kung that I have my current readings were low compared to what others had been reporting, I found out why. One of my springs that’s mounted to the tail cap board was not making a connection. Its fitted through a small hole on the inside of the board and comes out the back, where its soldered to that large square trace. Mine was loose and not making contact so I was only getting power from 3 batteries and they weren’t fully charged. So that maybe something you want to check if your current readings are low or maybe erratic. I’m going to solder the springs to the front side of the board to fix the issue.
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I couldn’t stand the thoughts of the small wires they used. So I set in and replaced them all with 22 AWG high strand count silicone wire. Before I even took a current reading with fully charged cells. :open_mouth: So I have no base line besides what you guys are seeing in your current readings. I haven’t had time to see what improvement the wire made, still setting on my bench all disassembled.
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My kung was listed as a 4x Cree T6. When I tore it down I noticed that all the led pcb’s said XML U2 on them. So its possible that I got a U2 version. I have no way to confirm this. As we all know it could be any XML bin in there, reflowed on a U2 pcb.
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One more thing that I noticed is the kung doesn’t have a good thermal path to the light body. The heat sink isn’t that thick and only contacts the body where its threaded to the head. So this maybe a limiting factory in how hard it can be pushed. I may make a larger heat sink with more contact area, as there seems to be plenty of room under the heat sink to add some more meat. Copper would be ideal here but expensive in that diameter to actual have enough extra to chuck up in the lathe. When I get time all try to keep you guys informed. Between work and baseball for my son I have almost no free time at the moment.

What about doing it in two parts? One part would basically be a tube with threads cut into it. The other part would be a disc with a shallow groove in the back for inserting the threaded tube. With tolerances tight enough, adhesive and threads wouldn't be needed to join the two, just chill the tube and heat the disc.

I bet you'll have a few takers if you sell copper pills.

Here are my comparison pics of the CNQ SRK U2 driven at 6.33 vs the SRK M4 T6 driven at 5.33amps:

Here is the distance to the white house at the end:

I hope you’ll post some pictures, once its done :slight_smile:

:bigsmile:

Nice photo’s
That thing sure puts out some light :slight_smile:

One step closer to the edge on buying one……………….

I got a normal SRK quite some time ago from the BrotherHaug (spelling?) and it had that same “pill” in it. A flat plate with one hole for the wires. It fit loosely. I didn’t have any copper sheet. If I did, I would have put one behind the pill. I had copper tape though. So I cleaned the threads really good with alcohol and put one layer of copper tape over the threads on the body. I also copper taped both sides of the pill. The pill threaded in nice and snug. If I ever open it up again, I will put in a second layer of tape. It may be too much though.

It made a very big difference. Body heated up much faster after that. Not the best solution, but it was a big improvement.

Sergio: thanks for the excellent comparison shots. The U2’s tint appears warmer than the T6’s on my screen. I have a U2 Kung coming. Hope it has similar tint.

If you could only have one, which would you choose? T6 or U2 ?

beamshots above look great and nothing like the ugly one in WB (yes, now WB have the Skyray 4 XML and still King not Kung :D)

good to know although driven somehow low, it is still bright enough upto 100 meter range :)

Well 5 days from order to delivery. That’s the good news, well there seems already to be multiple versions out there.

On this one (which was supposed to be unbranded) had an outlined SkyRay logo. Came in a brown box I presume intended for another type of torch. Nothing else included, apart from something stuck between the lens and reflector…

The switch is the most rattly one I have ever encountered. The spring plate is totally different from Mod’007s. I will put up a picture later also it was just held in with two screws with two missing. Difficult to say because it is day here but not a lot of difference if any between a modded bitsa skr and this kung, but I will take readings later.

Oh man, thats a tough choice. If it really came down to choosing only one, I would probably go for the U2 for the tint. I do like how the T6 looks brighter however.

My small flashlight collection consists of about (3) U2’s and (4) T6’s. U2 is probably the warmest I would go.

Thats what I thought as well