Sold! I like the H3 but I have far too many 14500's so I will get one of these as well.
Please note, that there are previous versions of the H1, H2…that do not have memory or any blinky modes.
I'm not even sure when these improved versions came out but I initailly didn't read Mr Admin and Don's reviews because I had versions of these lights and didn't think I would learn anything new. I bought the H1 and H2 some time last year and the UI was just a ramping UI that always cuts on in high with no memory and no blinking modes.
I happened to read Don and Mr Admin's reviews a few weeks ago and saw the mention of memory and a blinking mode and that confused the heck out of me. I couldn't figure out when the new version came out and does only Manafont sell this variation? I've also tried to determine if the letter after the model number is an indicator of the newer UI as my examples simply have UF-H1 and UF-H2 on the tailcap, while the newer versions have UF-H2B (for example).
I'm still confused but I do know I want the newer version in the 18650 or AA/14500 format.
Any idea of runtime on high? Sorry if I missed it in this thread.
For the UF-H3, about 3.5 hours on high and about a week on low.
Got my H2 yesterday from Manafont. Well made and no battery issues like the H3. Has memory too. Takes both AA and 14500. Works well with eneloops.
DD has a limited time BLF member offer for this light which the admin seems to like for only $16 and change.
Pretty incredible deal on the Ultrafire UF-H2 (similar to Zebra H501), Only $16
It's not spamming because, well, I want the light for that price, too. :D
I changed the emitter to XM-L T6 1D, its brighter and even floodier now, I just love this light and hope I can get another for <17$.
Mine has a minor flaw, SOS is actually OSO 
I received mine from the DinoDirect deal. It is a nice light but the output seems to quite low. I have tried NiMh and a 14450. The output does not WOW me. I was able to measure battery current on NiMh and it was about 1.1 A which is quite low. Sipik68 runs at 2.2A and blows this away in output.
Has anybody else measured the tailcap current?
- Vikas
just my opinion-
a cheap 2 mode would be great. also something to protect the lens , rubber band ??
pros
1 AA - seems efficient
cree led
nice looking
nice driver
magnet tail stand
cons
too expensive
seems lens is dirty and a bit uneven
not XML
I got the UF-H2Bs from DD I ordered for friends. Its exactly the same light I got from manafont several month ago, they too morse OSO instead of SOS.
As I mentioned before I replaced the emitter with a XM-L; here is a comparison XM-L - XR-E:
The XM-L is floodier and has no circular artefacts that are typical for the XR-E emitter and that are freaking me out. Pro: Now I can see the rocks above my head when I crawl through caves. Con: The tip of my nose is illuminated
Can you elaborate how you exchanged emmiters. Some details and macro pictures would be fine. On picture above XM-L is on the right or left? For the left one it looks it has less even flood or is it just brightnes compansation?
XM-L is on the left. I don't have a good camera (DSLR) and cannot set it up manually, so I only can do comparison beamshots.
Youre right, there is a gradient in the XM-L beam towards the edge, but the whole visual field is illuminated and I like it more than seeing these rings in the corner of my eyes.
I did not make any pictures while modifying it. Just open the screws and pull everything out (theres a lot of thermal compound in it). The emitter needs a lot of dremeling to fit in, but
all in all its not very difficult to change the LED.
heinzeins, you just replaced the led? not the driver or anything else?
Yes. I don't think you can change driver or clicky without having space problems or destroying the whole infinite modes idea.
Got it... was just wondering
The original XR-E is 7x9mm, I dremeled a 14mm star from shiningbeam since that was the only board with connectors within the required area.
I don't have equipment to solder LEDs to bare boards, but the 10mm XP-Gs from Illumination Supply look rather tempting. Unfortunally shipping to Germany is $13...
Nice work with the XM-L heinzeins. I removed the button to have a look behind but everything seems to be stucked, did you just use force to pull it all out?
I have some 14mm XP-G stars that I was thinking to put in but not sure if there would be any noticeable difference?
When you have removed the clicky there is a small heat sink perpendicular to the emitter board. It all sticks together with friction and lots of thermal compound. You have to scratch the white stuff out and see how it works. Since the board of my XM-L was actual a little bit thicker than the original I had to shorten the heat sink.
XM-L and XP-G have the same angle of radiation (125°) and a similar spatial distribution (left: XM-L, right: XP-G):
Btw: The 125° angle seems to be the 50% threshold. Is this right?
After some very fiddly work I got the stock led out and replaced it with a XP-G 
It's even more floody now and without the ugly ring artifacts, think it is a bit brighter as well.
Mouse over for XP-G and see for yourself.
Looking good!
Any pics from the modding process itself?