[review] Wurkkos TS10 (14500/3-up/4000K main/orange aux)

Okay, I confess, when I first heard about the TS10 coming out, being a 3-up light running off a 14500, I thought it was a joke or a gimmick. Lights that small, even running from 4.2V Li-ion cells, are generally anæmic, maybe 800lm or so at best. So they’re pretty much always single-emitter lights with a decent reflector, and that’s it. Why squeeze 3 LEDs into the opening? I was all prepared to laff at it if came out as such. Well, after seeing people rave about the TS10, I had to get one, and did (4000K emitters, and orange aux).

Ohhhh, man, was I wrong! :clown_face:

For what it’s worth, I thought the same about the WK30, that the triple emitter (white/red/UV) was a gimmick, only to have it become one of my all-time favorite lights. The WK40 recently followed suit (RGBW), also to become a great nighttime light and especially be able to use red light to preserve night-vision. And now, the TS10 crowned itself king of the 14500 lights. :crown:

It’s no joke. It’s among the smallest 14500 lights I have. My all-time favorite AA/14500 lights, the Sofirn SP10 family, is a bit longer, despite being rather compact on their own. So are the Lumintop Tool-AA, the Wuben E05 (despite also being 14500-only), etc. The TS10 is shorter than all of those.

And frankly, it’s my first light that has aux lights behind the TIR lenses. More properly, I think the aux lights are really what is normally used for backlit sideswitches, as the same controls for that via Andouille set the aux lights accordingly (off, dim, bright, epilepsy), cycled via 7 clicks. Caution: setting the aux lights to bright is a rather large power drain (because they’re so bright) and will run down the cell in something like a week, so stick with dim (which is about perfect for me at night), or off if you don’t want them turned on at all. Even so, on bright, you can use the aux lights at night vs even turning on the main LEDs, and my orange is quite nice for that, but just be aware you should keep the cell charged every so often. With the aux lights always-on and dim, battery drain is negligible, and hasn’t made a dent in the battery’s charge.

That said, the 4000K emitters (’351s?) give off a beautiful creamy almost peach-colored light that I haven’t seen in a long time. And behind the TIR lenses, there’s no “fried egg” beam or tint-shift anywhere to be found.

The beam itself is a buttery-smooth flood of light, no discernable hotspot, but bright in the middle and gradually fading outward. It’s downright beautiful at close- and intermediate range. but don’t expect it to throw as a dedicated long-range light will.

The light comes with the usual accoutrements such as extra O-rings, lanyard, 2-way clip, instruction sheet, and has the cell inside the light already (remember to remove the protective insulation disc!).

The light has a momentary tailswitch to be used as a sideswitch would be. This is invaluable to being able to always find the switch even in absolute darkness, with no need to rotate the light and try to find the sideswitch by feel if it’s not always backlit. In fact, people have compared the TS10, and very favorably, to the FW3A. I don’t have a FW3A, so can’t really give a firsthand opinion, but just the comparison should be taken as high praise.

The light comes with Andy 2 as its interface, and listing all its features is beyond the scope of a flashlight review, so feel free to look it up. I have in fact played with ramping vs stepped, the blinky modes like “candle”, “lightning”, “bike light”, “party light”, etc., and that might fun for those who like that sort of thing. It starts in simple mode where it’s hard to hurt yourself, and you can pretty easily switch to advanced mode if you want.

But the easiest way to control the light is click on, click off, click’n’hold to ramp up and again to ramp down, 2click for turbo, and so on. Be very careful with turbo, because that’s a LOT of power being generated in a small light with very little thermal mass, so it will get really hot, really fast. Just that fact about the light is in itself incredibly impressive! :laughing:

So for quite a while, I’ve been playing with this and using it as my “nightstand light” which just displaced the one I was using for quite some time! It does everything my bigger former light does, in a much smaller package, and has aux lights to let me find it immediately in the dark! And the orange aux lights on dim are about perfect for that: easily viewable, without being so bright as to be distracting.

So I’ve been wowed by the TS10 since I got it, enough to forget to review it and spread the joy. :student:

In a nutshell, that’s how impressed I was by the light. No regrets, and happily proven wrong about it being a “gimmick”. It’s a hella nice light in its own right.

Nice review, a bit more motivated to place the order. Does your version has the AUX light bug where its on even when the main LEDs are on?

Nope, everything’s good.

From what I’ve seen in the other thread, orange aux lights have the good code, a couple of people with red aux have the buggy ones (first/older?), and I’m not sure about the blue aux.

Link for the orange aux TS10s:

Great, I will place order soon. Thanks

I got one of the earlier batches — a couple of silver ones where the aux (red, orange) does not turn off when the main emitters are on. It’s totally fine anyway - I mean outside of battery conservation and all, the aux lights being on while the main light is on, won’t make a difference with the tint or anything.

Note that one must remember to be in moonlight mode to check if the aux lights turn off when main light turns on lol

Personally, I would want a charging port on the light. I know it will mean a longer and less sleeker light but it saves me from having to pack an extra battery charger. Yeah, might as well bring and extra 14500 while at it.

It’s a good light and quite addicting to get all those combo of body color x aux tint.

Great synopsis. I have two now, with a third OTW. My first go round with aux lights has been “enlightening”. My red 4000K w/red aux (low) is perfect for nightstand duty. Got the black 5700K w/green aux cuz it was low money, but even on low the green aux are annoyingly bright in a pitch dark environment. Inbound is MAO 5700K w/ice blue aux, and I’m guessing the low aux on that will be a little severe as well. Bought it for the novelty.
The 5700K is crazy good from a tint standpoint. About as pure white as I’ve ever seen. Awesome lights.

Can you post some pics of the 4000k & 5700k beam tint comparison? I prefer warmer tints but want to see if 4000k is too yellowish as the emitter used is unknown to me.

Wonderful review! I feel very enthusiastic about these wonderful little lights. I have a first run with blue and an orange. To respond to your last comment, my blue auxils do stay on with the primary emitters. Like another commented, I don’t see this being a problem in the least! I have one of the new white ones en route with red auxils. Can’t wait!

afaik the Aux color does not guarantee which firmware you get. I think you got lucky, congrats :slight_smile:

The black ones are “mixed”, some have original firmware.
Here is a black w orange Aux that arrived Sept 12, with the old firmware:

.

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I think the main issue with the buggy version isn’t just the aux-on (more of an indicator if buggy or fixed), but that LVP doesn’t work when the light’s off? Something like that.

So if you have the aux lights on bright and leave it over a week, it’ll run down the cell and not cut power. At least that’s what I recall of the buggy version of the UI.

Those that have it, I just occasionally do a battery-check to see the voltage.

yes, there are 3 differences

original firmware:

  1. Aux On when Main LEDs are ON
  2. No LVP on dim nor bright Aux when off

btw, I heard there is no LVP on any other Anduril lights w aux and button lights. The TS10 was just the first to uncover the lack of LVP in Anduril.

The TS10 also uses a smaller battery, and extra bright Aux, than past lights with Aux lights… so the overdischarge was discovered.

The Aux in TS10 are mistakenly wired to the button circuit, which is “supposed to” keep the indicator light on when main LEDs are on. That is fixed in the new firmware, thanks to gchart.

And also thanks to Wurkkos, for adopting the updated firmware that gchart provided. It is excellent!

3. Low mode is about 0.1 lumens

updated firmware:

  1. Aux Off when Main LEDs are On
  2. Adds LVP on dim and bright Aux when off
  3. Low mode is 10x lower, about 0.01 lumens
1 Thank

My “moonlight” (press’n’hold from off) is a bit bright…

Now, I’m assuming the aux are off (look so, whether dim or bright).

Soooo, is this new low the default moonlight, or lowest possible low after resetting floor/minimum/whatever?

Basically, I thought I got the nonbuggy UI, but now I’m not so sure. Won’t make me cry myself to sleep or anything, just good to know.

Only in Advanced Ramping mode,
from off, 1H gives moonlight that IS factory preset to the lowest possible floor.

In Simple mode, and in stepped modes,
moonlights are Not set to the lowest possible floors

I change my simple floor to the lowest…
I dont bother with lowering the floor in the stepped modes,
since I dont use the stepped modes…

> I thought I got the nonbuggy UI, but now I’m not so sure.

if you have the equipment to measure output, you can tell
or
doing a version check is a guaranteed way to know,
february firmware is original, july firmware is updated

the only serious “bug” to be aware of, is that Bright Aux can overdischarge the battery in less than 5 days. Options to deal with that include, dont use Bright Aux 24/7, and it is possible to reflash the firmware at home.

If you have an Android phone, you dont even need a computer, just the adapter that gchart sells, and some hokus pokus

Pretty sure advanced (ramping, lightning, candle, etc.) via the 10click thing.

I know with narsim and my ’micro, I set “moonlight” to waaaaaaaaaay low, which then snaps up to “floor” if you hold it too long.

Will try setting lowlowlow once I find that chart for andy2.

Did the 15click thing, no idea wtf the morse code it’s blinking out might be.

A’ight, I seem to be getting

2 2 2 2 8 6 4

with sometimes a quick flash between “fields”, other times just a pause.

Looking at

there’s nothing indicating how that parses.

Oh, well…

(Note, the pause may well represent ‘0’).

“Version Check Mode
—————————

This allows people to see which version of the firmware is installed on
their light. The format for this is (usually) 12 digits — a date
followed by a model number. YYYYMMDDBBPP

- YYYY: Year

  • MM: Month
  • DD: Day
  • BB: Brand ID
  • PP: Product ID

The date is when the firmware was compiled. If the vendor did not set
this value, it defaults to 1969-07-20, the date of first human contact
with the moon. However, it might not be a date at all; some vendors may
specify a completely different type of value here.

The brand/product values are also known as the model number. These are
hard-coded in the source code for each light’s build target, and can be
looked up in the “MODELS” file or by using the “make models” command.”

1 Thank

lol… I figured the version check would be entertaining… here is how you decipher the morse code:

it sounds like you Are in advanced since you reach all the blinkies
so, the floor you get doing 1H from off, is the lowest possible
(it does start ramping up automatically if you hold too long, you can see it happening, it is not a sudden hop)

Kewl, so it looks like 2022-02-08, 06 04?

So February, thus old buggy version. Oh, well. :clown_face:

Yeh, in narsim for my ’micro, the default was set to 5 or 7, forgot, so moonlight and floor were the same.

I reset that to 1, so moonlight is more like firefly (1), and it hops to floor (5/7) before it starts ramping up.

Wasn’t sure how it worked in andy1 or andy2.