[review] Wurkkos TS21 21700 light, 4000K!

IMO, that looks better and if it was the original design, would have given your primary model line a more uniform, consistent aesthetic, especially with the blue retaining ring on the black bodies. The blue ring and ribbed knurling are signature design cues that make it easier to identify a Wurkkos light.

Granted, Olight does the same, and did it before, but other grumblings about their lights aside, their design and aesthetics have always been good, so it’s not a negative association, even if made in error.

Colorful lights have now become more the norm, so blue trim isn’t always going to coordinate, but when black was the only option, black with blue trim gave them a little flair, and stronger identity to both brands.

I have Jinba-made lights with both types of switches, and from a functional standpoint, the larger rubber covered switch has a better, crisper action than the metal-buttoned switches, which are mushy, and can feel loose (such as on the SP35). That makes the former type of switch better suited to lights with the Anduril UI, where the button has to be repeatedly pressed in specific sequences, and the larger lit area much easier to read than the tiny light-pipe window, which was envisioned as a momentary indicator, not as a beacon or illuminated switch.

Fix the bugs, change the switch, stick with hi-CRI only emitters, and the TS21 would become much more attractive, IMNSHO. Give it a regulated driver, on top, and it would be a very hard to beat package.

Actually, I always liked those switches. :laughing:

I’d still prefer whichever is more waterproof, but if they’re about equal, the rubber-boot switches seem easier to find in the dark and by feel.

I could go either way on the switch. On my TS21 I am happy for the fact that I can use it, check voltage and temperature, while wearing winter gloves, and now understand that there is nothing wrong or random about that crazy blue light that bugged me compared to the V1 version.

Just back from a walk with the pooches. Started my test with the temp of 250 from inside my coat pocket! Voltage was at 3.8 vs 3.9 warm. Ran it for probably less than a minute at regulated current then went to turbo. After a minute or so I brought it back to turbo and didn’t notice a difference. Did that a couple of more times and did notice a difference one time but still no blue light. After a solid 5 minutes (based on the songs I was listening to) the blue light finally came one. As quick as I could get a reading the temp was 54. Within about 30 seconds the temp was in the 30s.

The other time I thought the blue light was random was likely when I was using a protected 18650 with the tube from an IF22A. Sudden voltage change would be much more likely than random.

They also have a lower profile, sit more flush to the body, and are less likely to be unintentionally actuated.

Now, the real question is whether Wurkkos is actually considering a design update, or just showing a discarded prototype?

Oh. I thought it’d be a bit more bulbous, which for a table-light would be better.

Would be great if the caps could be switched (haha) between flush and proud, the latter being a taller button with longer stump inside.

I still think the blue light is a bug. Sometimes mine will start flashing. One time it would not stop flashing rather than terminate charging. Just now I tried varying output to make the blue light come on and it started flashing. The power bank function may be the cause someone speculated.

I have little doubt it is a bug - it's not as intended. The blue LED is controlled by the charging controller, not the MCU, so it's not a bug in the firmware. It can be explained how it functions, and Wurkkos has done that, but I can't believe Wurkkos wanted it to work this way.

Overall though, with the high parasitic drain, also caused by the charging circuit/controller, and the blue LED coming and going, many feel it's still a decent product. Myself, I find it still to be a usable product and wouldn't trash it or not use it as long as we understand the issues the light has. For me I'll stay away from the high setting for the switch LED, then the parasitic is reasonable, a bit high, but ok, and just ignoring the blue LED because it will go off in a few seconds anyway.

The very high parasitic drain with the switch LED on hi is caused by Wurkkos using a very low resistor value -- this very high drain is not caused by the charging circuit, rather using a much too low value resistor for the switch LED.

Would changing it fix the problem or just make the LED dimmer?

The stock resistor is 0.1K ohms, 0402 size, where it normally is 5K to 20K. I swapped it for an 8.2K ohm and the drain went from 13.5 mA to 1.3 mA, but 1.3 mA is still too high - shouldn't be that high. I get under 0.2 mA with many switch LED's, sometimes 0.2 to 0.3, but 0.4 should be the max. The stock setup was way too bright, on mine now it's reasonable, noticeable in bright room light.

Any chance of this bug getting fixed at the factory? The WK30 has got me back in to the flashlight craze once again and seriously looking at other Wurkkos offerings.

The TS21 has the ground work to be a great light. Just needs some tweaking. Anduril 2 is cool. The manual memory is the cat’s meow. For me it has just enough mass to run a decent lumen level without overheating yet it is small enough to be pocketable. A little short in the throw department but hey, it’s a flooder.
Wurkkos needs to address the bugs. So far I have not seen any movement in that direction. Hopefully future models will upgrade.

Are you talking about the high mode?
I use the low mode and I like it. It kinda looks steampunk-ish or like a hot piece of metal.

Would the higher resistor make the low mode useless/barely visible considering it’s already dim?

the reply we got from the engineer is the bug can not fixed except change the switch button

For which bug you are talking about? For blue led or high current drain from resistor to amber LED in switch. First can’t be fixed yes without change of charge controller, but second one there is proposed easy solution from Tom_E. 1.3 mA high drain current also come from high quiescent current of charge controller.

Third bug - battery check in simple mode does not read correctly.

High drain current needs to be fixed; other bugs can be lived with. Is the high drain because of the controller or the resistor or the combination? I do understand that changing controller might be costly but the OEM of that controller should take the responsibility for the high drain and fix the design and offer flashlight manufacturer credit for the update.

Wurkkos - changing a resistor value is simple, and it will reduce the switch high mode super high parasitic drain.

With the 8.2K resistor I used, the switch low mode is still visible, though I'd like it brighter - we don't have much control over the amperage difference between low and high - just the way the ATMEL MCU supports that built-in feature.

In that case, Terry should talk again with the Wurkkos engineer and see if one can ECO the resistor change. That should be done as soon as possible. There is lot of latent demand for the TS21 with low drain. I am holding off my purchase just for that.


I poked around for switch covers on Aliexpress, and while there are a variety of sizes and depths, didn’t find a direct replacement for the ~10/11mm covers that Sofirn uses.

I’ve been informed that a drain fix is in the works.

The spurious lighting isn’t harmful, but I’d hope that it prompts a reconsideration of the related (and IMO sort of frivolous) power bank feature, or at least more thorough testing before for all bugs before mass production is initiated. The industry already relies on public betas of sorts, but it shouldn’t be carried out by paying customers unless they’re willing.

This will be great news! Now all I need is the coupon code for the new Blue one!