I managed to fit in a Carclo optic, but the space was tight even with a short 51mm Kinoko IMR 18500. I don’t think a 53mm ICR 18500 would fit unless I shorten the pill a bit more. There’s sufficient pill left I could take another 2-3 mm off if needed.
You should have plenty of room to make it a mule with no optic.
I am looking to use this host to build a single CR123a light. I will use the Nanjg 110 boost driver. I’m not looking for maximum brightness, and prefer a fairly neutral tint. I prefer longer battery life over higher brightness.
Which emitter should I use? XM-L2, XP-L, XP-G2, or Nichia 219b?
XP-L is the most effective among the others, and V6 3D is probably the most effective neutral XP-L at the moment.
And you can always reduce the output of Nanjg 110 just by replacing one resitor (stock 110 will draw 1.5A+ from the battery, so it’s not very economical).
Thanks for posting this. I was leaning toward the XP-L anyway, as I figured it would give me a floody beam like I have in my S3 with an XM-L2.
Do you know which resister should be changed, and what the new resister should be? I can do surface mount soldering, so changing the resister shouldn’t be too big a deal.
It’s R1 for Nanjg 110 (0.1 Ohm stock, marked R100), 0805 size.
Output current (in mA) calculated as I=95mV/R1, so it’s 950mA for 0.1 Ohm, 792mA for 0.12 Ohm, 633mA for 0.15 Ohm and so on.
And the current drawn from battery is pretty much proportional to the output current.
Like with any of the protected batteries....not all will fit (I think Keepowers do).
The three I purchased (two for gifts) are running the Efest IMR's unprotected. No inhibiting current factors and this "little" light really puts out some light. Simon's lights have Low Voltage Protection which I feel is more reliable than most battery protection and for charging (even if giving this as a gift) Illumn.com has prices that can't be beat and RMM has that Xtar MC01. Just make sure you buy genuine batteries from a reputable vendor.