S2+ 18350/16340 version and CR123 version

Making it a mule shouldn’t be too hard.

I managed to fit in a Carclo optic, but the space was tight even with a short 51mm Kinoko IMR 18500. I don’t think a 53mm ICR 18500 would fit unless I shorten the pill a bit more. There’s sufficient pill left I could take another 2-3 mm off if needed.

You should have plenty of room to make it a mule with no optic.

Thanks for your reply.

I was worried I made a mistake in ordering the 18500,your instructions are very helpfull.Panasonic has 50.2mm length.

I am looking to use this host to build a single CR123a light. I will use the Nanjg 110 boost driver. I’m not looking for maximum brightness, and prefer a fairly neutral tint. I prefer longer battery life over higher brightness.

Which emitter should I use? XM-L2, XP-L, XP-G2, or Nichia 219b?

Thanks for any advice!

XP-L is the most effective among the others, and V6 3D is probably the most effective neutral XP-L at the moment.
And you can always reduce the output of Nanjg 110 just by replacing one resitor (stock 110 will draw 1.5A+ from the battery, so it’s not very economical).

Thanks for posting this. I was leaning toward the XP-L anyway, as I figured it would give me a floody beam like I have in my S3 with an XM-L2.

Do you know which resister should be changed, and what the new resister should be? I can do surface mount soldering, so changing the resister shouldn’t be too big a deal.

It’s R1 for Nanjg 110 (0.1 Ohm stock, marked R100), 0805 size.
Output current (in mA) calculated as I=95mV/R1, so it’s 950mA for 0.1 Ohm, 792mA for 0.12 Ohm, 633mA for 0.15 Ohm and so on.
And the current drawn from battery is pretty much proportional to the output current.

WarHawk-AVG, we’re talking about Nanjg 110, not 105C

Right right

I goofed…sorry (and deleted my old post)

Per the link above…adding a 2nd resistor would parallel the resistances reducing it w/o having to remove the original

Yes, but we actually need to increase the resistance :slight_smile:

ummm….ok

guess I just never wanted to reduce the current draw :stuck_out_tongue:

Thanks, Alex!

Now I just bought one. This new addiction is getting hold of me :wink:

Seriously though, seems like a great little light. Bought the 18350 version. Got the 7135*4 and t6-4c.

Now I think I have a decent “trifecta”. Keychain is an itp a3 eos with an efest imr 10440. For hiking, this s2+ 18350 should do the trick.

And then my convoy x3 in the event of the zombie apocalypse :slight_smile:

See ya
Robby

anybody know if protected 18350s work in this flashlight?

Robby

BLF will never be the same.

yes

Thanks Simon

What protected 18350s do you recommend?

Also, I’m sure my order is totally fine, but just to make sure… I added $1.58 and ordered the light with the 7135*4 driver with the t6-4c led :slight_smile:

Regards
Robby

makes a surprising large amount of light for being so small doesn’t it? :wink:

OH SNAP! :smiley:

sorry ,i didnt find any brand of 18350 in China
most of 18350 have 750-900mAH capacity

Like with any of the protected batteries....not all will fit (I think Keepowers do).

The three I purchased (two for gifts) are running the Efest IMR's unprotected. No inhibiting current factors and this "little" light really puts out some light. Simon's lights have Low Voltage Protection which I feel is more reliable than most battery protection and for charging (even if giving this as a gift) Illumn.com has prices that can't be beat and RMM has that Xtar MC01. Just make sure you buy genuine batteries from a reputable vendor.