maybe sell it in the future ,but no extra in stock
i believe lot of plp will be interested
I’m not sure an 18650 will fit even with a switch removal.
An 18650 is approximately 15mm longer than an 18500. I think a contact plate in the tailcap will gain maybe 8-10mm. Note that the contact plate won’t be at the very back of the tailcap. instead it will be in front of the shelf that holds the tailcap boot. I’d likely remove the boot and then glue the contact plate in. If enough epoxy is used it should still be waterproof even without the boot.
To get the 15mm, I suspect the light would have to be extended. This could be done by wrapping an aluminum strip into a ring around the body tube’s threads near the head so that the tube doesn’t screw down as far. This would make for a longer light and give more room in the body tube… but the aluminum strip wouldn’t match the anodizing and the light might be weaker as fewer threads would be available to grip the head. It might also compromise waterproofing if o-ring at the head-end of the body tube can’t be used.
However, note that even with the aluminum strip mod extending the overall length of the light, it would still probably be the shortest 18650 light around. My guess is 87 or 88mm long…. which is 3mm shorter than a DQG18650.
Also note, that you can recover some of the length of the light buy filing off almost everything above the contact plate in the tailcap. This may look unsightly as the filed portion won’t be anodized. But it would significantly shorten the light.
I’ve already partially modded my S@+ 18350, by modding the pill and shortening the head. This reduced the overall length of the light from 84mm down to 80mm. There’s still plenty of room in the battery compartment. I figure I could easily take another 4mm off just from filing the head and everything would still fit. If I also shorten the pill then I might save an additional 4-5 mm.
I would also buy a couple if you sell just the battery tube.
I just recieved my S2+18350. This unit will make the perfect dual-use headlamp as well as great EDC (shorter than a SK68)
For S2+ 18350/16340, I would like the option for 7135*8.
Gonna get hot hot hot really fast…and suck the life out of those 18350’s really fast…believe it or not…with 4*7135’s it throws quite alot of light for its size and the LED runs more efficiently at lower currents, which means much longer battery life.
But…if you wanna pay for it and Simon is willing to sell it…hit it and get it man 
Believe it or not 1.4A at wide open makes more light than 2.8A at 50% PWM duty cycle…and uses less current as well 
Loving this little light…so much smaller than a full size Convoy S2+ and even with a 1.4A driver throws ALOT of light
Thanks again Simon
will the pill of the old S2, fit on the new S2+ 18650/18350 ?
no, it’s actually longer, thus the S2+’s shorter reflector
yes the new pill its longer ,but does the old one screw inside flashlight body of the new ,are the threads of the pills the same?
If i install an old pill with its reflector will it fit the new model ?
ah…yeah sure
nice,thanks.
My parts arrived, so I went ahead and did the mod on my second host:
Host: Convoy S2+ 18350 size.
Driver: BLF17DD FET.
Emitters: 3x XPL neutral with domes on
Optic: Carclo 10507 modded to work with domed emitters.
Battery: Kinoko IMR 18500 (1200 mAh)
I performed the following modifications during the install:
- Ground down top of pill flat and drilled hole in center for use with 20mm triple Noctigon.
- Ground down back of pill and driver shelf to allow pill to ride much higher in the light.
- removed driver spring and replaced it with a small copper disk
- solder braided tailcap spring.
Result: This light is really BRIGHT. But it also heats up really really fast.
PICS!
HOLY SMOKES!!!
What is your turbo timeout on that!
Firelight2, I also was trying to fit a 18500 but don’t know how to solve it.
+1 for the photos, please.
I’ll try to take some pics of the pill tonight so you can see what I did. The key to getting everything to fit was in carefully and methodically shrinking the pill.
- Step 1 - File down the top of the pill. The stock pill has ridges along the top edge to keep a 16mm star centered. These need to be removed so that the 20mm triple star can sit flat. I use a large hand-file in a vise for this. File the top until it is flat and no further.
- Step 2 - File down the threads on the top portion of the pill. Some threads need to be filed off so that the pill can seat farther forward in the unthreaded portion of the head. The key is not to file off too many threads. To get the depth, I inserted a toothpick into the back of the empty head, then marked it with a pen at the point where the threads ended. I then held that toothpick against the pill and marked all around the pill at that point with a fine-tipped permanent marker. Finally I wrapped some grey rubber indoor stairway grip tape all the way around the pill below that point. The thick grip tape provides a guide for the file. It also makes a much more comfortable handle when filing.
To file off the threads, I had a large file in a small desktop vise. I held the empty pill in my hand by the grip tape and rubbed it sideways over the file. I went around the light until all visible threads were removed. When done, I removed the grip tape and tested it for fit by inserting it into the head with an empty triple noctigon and carclo optic.
- Step 3 - Shorten the bottom of the pill. My initial plan was to rub the bottom of the pill over the handfile. I figured after a few hours it would be short enough. Since the pill would no longer have a slot for the driver, I’d glue the driver to the end with arctic alumina and then use a bit of wire or solder braid for negative contact to the pill.
When I looked closer at the pill I realized the sides were actually quite thick, and grinding with a handfile was painfully slow. I lowered the driver shelf using a hand drill with a cylindrical cutting bit with a flat bottom. I made a small stand out of a piece of aluminum sheet bent into a flat “U” shape. The purpose of the stand was to sit inside the upside-down pill and keep the cutting bit at the correct depth when grinding. It only took a few minutes to lower the shelf this way.
I then used a different grinding bit in the drill to grind down the bottom off the pill to make the whole thing shorter. When done I finished it with the handfile to even it out and make it flat.
- Step 4 - drill hole in pill for driver wires. Stock pill needs a hole drilled in the center of the LED platform for the driver wires.
- Step 5 - driver installation. Since the modded pill still had a driver shelf, driver installation was easy and glue was not necessary. Insert and solder. I had a brief bit of difficulty getting the solder to bridge the slight gap from the driver to the pill, but this was easily fixed by dropping a sliver of copper sheet onto the gap and soldering to it. the driver spring on my BLF17DD driver was much too long for this light. I removed it and soldered a contact pad made from a disk of copper sheet in its place.
- Step 6 - Solder braid the tailcap. Since this light takes a lot of current I felt it necessary to solder braid the tailcap. In my previous S2+ mod, I accidentally shorted the battery. Even though it was on like that for just a couple seconds it was enough to permanently collapse the spring. For durability, I now use standard 22 gauge silicone wire instead of braid to bypass tailcap springs.
When I finally assembled the whole light, it worked, but the head wouldn’t quite fully seat…. the pill needed to be about 1/2 a mm shorter. The best way to fix this would be to disassemble the pill and grind the shelf lower. Rather than doing that I instead disassembled the tailcap and ground down the washer just below the rubber boot. Now all parts of the light are fully seated and it works great.
Regarding 18650 - there’s no way an 18650 would fit into this light without major external modifications to the tailcap. It could be done, and would result in an 18650 twisty of around 85-86mm in length, but it might look quite awkward at the tail. It also might not be as durable since spacers would have to be added to prevent the body tube threads from full seating.
Turbo timeout on my 5-mode off-time memory BLF17DD is 1 minute I think. It’s too long though. The light gets too hot on BOTH of the top 2 modes. And on the brightest mode the time should probably be more like 20 or 30 seconds.
I think I should probably order another BLF17DD (when RMM gets them back in stock) for this light with custom modes. Something like: moonlight - 5% - 20% - 100% (with 30 second timeout).
Hi all
Nice to read you have fitted the 18350 light with 18500 cell.I ordered this light some time ago and also Panasonic NCR18500.My plan is to mod the lamp to “mule head”.I have one made with very cheap Chinese host (cree xt-e,3x7135)with failing switch,it is time for a new light.
Looks like it is possible to mod the original pill just like you did.I can put the emitter even closer to the lens,if there is enough thread inside the pipe ?
I also ordered nanjg board with 6x3175 (this is little thicker board,so may not fit?)and usbasp programmer to try my luck with the programming.