SFN55.2, SFQ55, SFN60, SFQ60, SFS80 and SFH55 LED info

After reading through this thread I’ve dropped the current to 5.5A for SFS80, but wish we knew what these could officially take safely. Can’t find the 4000K version anymore :frowning:

Just noticed the 4000k disappeared from KD, bummer. Wondering why this LED is soon to be discontinued, thought it was new.

Funtastic, where did you buy your Convoy L21B with SFS80? Simon’s shop is offline for the holiday but checking around I only see SFT40 etc.

How’s the tint on the 4000k?

I don’t know if the reflows were good or bad. All I can say is that those are only emitters I have ever fried without doing some stupid experiments. They are hard to reflow, because they seem to be very sensitive to any impurities in light emitting area. Of many reflows I’ve done, I have had four failures with these 4000K versions. But they make a nice beam. Rosy.

Anyone know this Chinese led NB90.16? Seems capable of crazy things ...

https://www.amutorch.com/products/xt60-nb9016-version

Could be an SFH55.

Hi guys. If someone know from where we can source that SFN55.2 led. It seems interesting replacement of XHP70.2 at 3V. Anyone to have measuremets of CCT of that LED?

This is just 1 sample data. Mateminco MT70-Mini with SFN55.2 LED, set to ramp ceiling (Anduril), placed a few feet distant from Opple Light Master Pro (I understand this is not meant to be a ‘professional-level’ device), the CCT reads around 7000k, more or less. (I don’t know how accurate is the Opple Light Master Pro I got, but tested several SST20-4000k LED from various flashlights and the reading is around 3900-4000k, so it seems to be a fairly correct result)

I just ordered 2 SFH55’s from Pioneman store.

He was willing to sell them when I asked from him, but there definitely was a language barrier so it’s better to keep questions simple.

Amutorch started a thread on that here

100w sfn60 9 core ~8800lumens ,150w sfh55 16core ~14000lumens ,200w sfp55 25core ~22000 lumens . im trying to fit these into all my old lights . Palight boss 4s 26650 direct drive -aiming for sfp55 , haikelite mt07 buffalo 4s -aiming for sfp55 due to the 4s configuration , astrolux mf02 2s -aiming for sfh55 and courui 60mm head 3s ……. Given the 3v leds are all requiring 35/50/68a to reach peak lumens , i dont think the stock driver will deliver but 1/2 of the claim lumens would be a good update even though the throw will somewhat diminish it would still be a yay!.

My Question is………how many cells can i direct drive it without busting these 3v 100+w leds . 1/2/3s 18650 , maybe 2s 26650 , anyone tried ? im afraid of busting the setup and drivers again. These new mega lumens cheap leds are making all my light collection obsolete and wholly inadequate . Its either $ down the drain, get a new light or resurrection of old zombie light with fresh leds or both.

Had to re-read that a few times and catch that you are direct driving the LEDs.

Short answer: as many cells as you wish (if configured in parallel). These emitters draw so much current the cells will drop in voltage. They’re going to get hot. Then you also have to re-work those switches if you are bypassing the circuitry. You may be able to jump the switch to fully open the FET. These, the springs, the traces, and the wiring will also dampen your current.

As one member stated, it’s basically a short.

So you would need to control your particular set-up; clamp ammeter to the output LED, voltmeter would also give an overdrive situation if it ever does get to that.
If you are thinking of teeter-tottering between 2 series and 2 parallel cells (balancing the voltage drop as the current demand is high.), that’s not sound engineering. Any little change in contact or cell type will disbalance the setup.

It’s my nickels’ worth. You have nice lights as is. I would leave them as is. Aiming for the stars is dreaming. These LEDs can’t be driven in conventional flashlights. Sure someone will figure a workaround, some technically savvy fellow.

Yes, im trying to do it the simplest upgrade either just replacing the old led with these new ones perhaps matching the higher watt led to higher voltage light hoping it end up with a mega lumens kaboom or if it unfortunately fails , which happen more often than not from myriad of issues, Direct drive it.

My experience with low watt leds is they go pop in instant on 2 cells in series but somehow for the high watt leds like the Xhp they seems to last . So i suspect the wattage and led core array is a factor for roughly gauging how many cell in series these led can take. Because these new leds are cluster of tiny 3v leds array, im thinking could it be the higher voltage actually gets split up among the parallel printed leds in the row and allows for multiple cell to be stack in series. Otherwise direct driving with single cell wont get 50amps above to work it.

So how can a shaggy flasholic actually get the maximum bang for lumens in the simplest manner for their old light with these? i think many people would want to know.

In the past the Xhp was the only high power leds but being 12v its very complicated to upgrade light and also they throw horribly with those dome on . Now with these 100-200w leds , they are all domeless super thowable if not for the large die but still better than the large xhp 70 dome. These are basically the dream of flasholics 5 years ago come true. A lumens spouting domeless production leds scaleable power to infinitum at 3v. Except for the die size that is.

Just to explain why people have a urge to upgrade their older lights.

In Streetfighter3 RYU vs AKUMA.

Consider $100 bucks Haikelite 4x18650 Mf07 beefy buffalo is Ryu the former champ of XHP70 technique. Ryu is often seen in teaser always showing off its impressive mastery of hadoken energy blast of 4500 lumens puff. Then come $45 bucks Astrolux ea04s 11000 lumen . Astro ea04s is a midget light with 3 Xhp50.2 on a single 26650. Astro came uninvited, its just like Akuma doing its irritable air triple hadoken of 11000 lumens on Ryu the meaty buffalo head .This is clearly not acceptable so RYU the beefy buffalo charged up its humiliation and store up LEVELIII special , Super hadoken with a simple SFP55 25core 22k emitter swop and returns with - say 13500lumens output . With a huge 80mm head on a single emitter it will put an end to any challenges to its supremacy vs 40mm triple xhp50.2 in distance throw.

RYU the beefy buffalo could restore its former glory :+1:

To be continue………

:laughing: :smiley:

After 2 days of messing around……….

This is da beast , this is da SFP55 22k lumens 25 core on 32mm dtp . on 4 x18650 in series dd , it is too hot to handle for most sized lights and they will burn with barely 30s of use before i caught this $$$ beamshot and destroyed the batteries and board.

Surprisingly the led held up well . Its a freaking hot 200w led and its not for small lights. all the switches are melting up the batteries died , the circuit is smoking n it fried the smd 100, the driver can only blink before it is put down. But i finally got it to work by using low grade cells and massive reworking the circuity to a 2x2 18650 config in Twisty style operation. Thanks to the beefy Mt07 body it can still be operated for a few minutes before it burns.

EStimates brightness with 4x18650ga dd - about nearly 2-3x as bright as 6800lumens convoy l8 for 30s.
EStimates brightness with 2x2 18650 samsung icr(deceased) - about 2x as bright as stock 5000lumens mt07

Throw is mid floody due to the large 25core die size.

Heat is prohibitive high on 4x18650 and but bearable on 2x18650 directdrive .

My thoughts on this led is it need massive heatsinking to run and can be dd on 2 high discharge cell but requires extremely high current wires and switches, efficiency is below XHPs SSTs. Brightness is legit if it can be powered to spec. Tint is good on the big die and but for smaller sfn60(pop it in Utorch which died tragically from mishap……) there is serious yellow tinting in the middle perhaps due to the dd testing.

The utorch is almost perfected with the sfn60 before peskyness decides to drill 2 holes to hold down the leds which ended up stuck on one hole which broke some screws ,which was drilled through only to discover all those was usb c circuitry destroyed and it was right underneath the led and everything needs to be reworked to directdrivemode……holymolly massive cockeroony.
with super long wires coils and directly driven on 26650 its about 2-3x as bright with shorter wires vs stock 1500lumens. but there is massive tinting in my led.

Thanks for now. Its been quite a challenge with these without much planning. Much flashlight mishaps and tragedies as expected but it kinda all worked out in the end as dd twisty lights n yes i had enough for now . Hope you enjoy the pics. Cheers :+1:

Great work Fatlight!

Do you mean it looks 2-3x as bright or that’s what you’ve measured?

Are you able to measure the lux compared to ceiling bouncing a stock light? Eg using a lux meter app on your phone?

Hi dave, for the sfp55 22k led its 3v on 32mm dtp .the output is just rough estimates vs the stock light performance . on 4x18650 directdriven old cells , it seems to be 2-3x as bright vs the convoyl8/stock light . Brightest single emitter light that lit up entire room just like in UFO abduction movies. The blinding output is power overwhelming wowwowwee in effect and could be anywhere from 10-22k lumens depending on batteries heatsinking and reflector . Ive no way to tell the max performance now since my cells were all busted and mt07 is now in 2x2 series instead. The led is still operating fine after lots of 4x18650 carnage but all the batteries died . With high discharge cells it might be possible to reach peak lumens .The manufacturer spec is 240w 68a 3v 22k lumens and that seem legit but the heat is just too hot to touch in any sustained operations . Even ryu the beefy buffalo cant take it for a minute. Akuma took in Ryu L3 super hadoken and performed 天 on RYU the beefy buffalo and mt07 is now a forever changed sub max peformance twisty. If ryu want to do its l4 ultimate hadoken with new 4x18650 35a it might disintegrate itself and become a armless amputee unable to block, Ken would be able to feet slap him with its ultimate kicks at will.

Right now ive only mt07 80mm op reflector on directdrive 2x2 18650 with old samsung 30q and its about 2x as bright as stock. i speculate with newer 4x18650 35a cells in series, it might be possible to momentarily reach 20k lumens with better heatsinking than mt07 host.

Lux meter comparison At 1meters / 1.5meters,

convoyl8 smo 80mm head sbt90.2 offchart lux / 1.5m lux
astrolux mf02 smo 80mm head xhp35 1.7m lux / 1m lux
haikelite mt07 op 80mm head sfp55 dd 2x2 18650 old samsung 30q fast dropping 1.2-1m lux / 100-50k lux

For the time being ,i need to get away from these hotties led for now before more of my light collection fall prey to peskiness and gets destroyed into direct driven twisties monsters.

Fatlight,

“If ryu want to do its l4 ultimate hadoken with new 4×18650 35a it might disintegrate itself and become a armless amputee unable to block, Ken would be able to feet slap him with its ultimate kicks at will.”
:laughing:

Although I am not a fan of big fat lights, and I prefer Mortal Kombat or Tekken fighters this is very nice but dangerous experiment :+1:

I think good way to ultimate hadoken would be diffused laser running on 1 or eventually 2x 18650(parallel or series). When I say diffused I would diffuse them with high quality aspheric lens to a point where it still has good amount of throw and flood.

We need to crack out BMW headlight laser system and make appropriate tuning :wink:

Yesss……Exactly how i feel ……. and ive already got some of de goodies lying around . However the tall cone heads have weird focal point not reachable without some machining. the shorty dome however is focusable and can be combined with a mini shorty dome inside the big head for a focused point with just a spacer. however this makes it heavy and not as bright as a large smo reflector . Lep flashlight are the way to go for distance but they are just too weak on the lumens at the moment.