The SC600 is a solid bar of aluminium, no threads as a weak point at the head. The T50 is threaded at the head, that’s the key difference. I don’t think the zebra would break in the same way. The electronics and the lense are the weak points for the SC600 though imo so I’m impressed the driver survived the drop-tests so well, just a shame about the lense.
From the angle it’s leaning over at the end, it does look like the head was depressed in deeper on the 2nd roll. I don’t see a rock after the 1st roll. Perhaps something was under the body . . autopsy pics by the OL pathologist will be interesting.
The rock in the first roll over actually protected the light. It supported the light and took the weight on the body itself. In the second roll over, the light was in the softer soil in the middle and small rocks under at least one end, so it gave under the pressure and snapped the aluminum at it's weakest point, where the threads are. That's my story and I will be able to prove it, or disprove it, when they arrive.
The lights arrived. There's not enough left to triage.
I will start with the SC600 first. It does not work. Won't come on at all.
Overall, it's scarred all to hell. Deep scars all over the bezel, head, body and tail cap. Deeper than can be "fixed". The scars will live on as testament to the damage done on the light. Battle scars.
Dent in Tail Cap.
The driver is fried. If you look close you can see one component split in two. I believe that once water got inside, from the busted lens, the driver shorted out. At this point, I would believe it needs a new switch, new driver and new LED, just to bring it back to where it was before the testing.
Now for the UF T-50. I like to call it the Ultrafake, since it's almost a flashlight, but not really.
Of course, we know it almost goes round corners now. It is not working. Guaranteed it's fried.
It won't come apart at this stage.
Lots of deep scars all over the light.
Reflector is toast, so is the lens. It's in one piece, but scarred badly.
Here's the culprit. A stone kept this spot on the light under pressure during the crushing and the head area was in softer soil, so it bent the light, but it is not really bent. I will explain in a minute.
Notice that with a little TLC, the light is straight again. I put the head in a vise and used the channel locks to "pop" the joint, just like a chiropractor. It got the light straight and I was able to get it apart. Instead of splitting, the threads "jumped" causing the bent look and the threads are damaged. It sort of wiped them out as it jumped threads. It can go back together, but it will be for good.
Here's the breakdown. The driver, switch, led, reflector and lens all need to be replaced.
One side of the driver.
The other side of the driver. There was "shrapnel" in the housing where the driver sits in.
The switch is smashed and was torn off the backing plate.
All in all, it's a disaster. I would chunk both of them, but I agreed to fix them. I will do that.
I need the following parts:
SC600
Stock Driver
Stock Lens
Stock Switch
Possibly the LED - I have to test it.
UF T50
Stock Driver
Stock Switch
Reflector
Lens
Possibly the LED, again it needs testing
Why Stock parts?? Both of these lights use electronic switches. There is absolutely no room for a bigger switch. It has to be an electronic switch, so the driver has to work with an electronic switch, so why F*** with crazy stuff, just replace them. Anyone got some stock parts lying around?
I also want the stock reflector and lenses, because they are so specific in the way they fit, that generics will not work correctly. It's not like a Maglite where there is lots of open space to play. These lights were designed for these components. They weren't made to accept generic off the shelf parts.
Anyhow, it's going to take a while and either I have success with trying to get parts from the manufacturers, or new lights will have to be stripped to fix these lights. Huh?, That's what I said, LOL.
Right at this point in time I actually feel a little shattered. The person I admire more than any one else in this world who I thought could do anything without a sonic screwdriver but with a file and soldering iron cannot fix these minor faults and wants to use new items to restore them? Shattered I am I say.
Seriously there has to be another finish to this scientific experiment from the best minds in the flashlight business. Do we really want to see these flashlights live again unless Old-Lumens really wants to reprieve his reputation or is there someone more imaginative than me out there that can finish this with a bang? Bort has made the first suggestion.
You guys are blowing our minds with this thread, I have been emailing the tests to my non-flashlight friends and they are mind blown as well, this is fascinating stuff.
I would say they are both total losses. The idea was to repair them if possible. Seems like having to replace so much of the light is really not repairing them so much as replacing them.
If it was a car and needed a new motor, trans, windshield, tires, paint, steering wheel and all electrical components replaced, it would be a total write off.
They wouldn’t really be the original lights anymore since you would just be keeping the body. I say call off the repair and let’s do another test of a couple of lights.