Most any light that has a metal ring around the switch could be modified to keep from a accidental activation.
If you can get the ring out, most anyone with a lathe could make a taller ring.
It also help to find the switch in the dark .
The Wuben E05 that I received two days ago has a very stiff switch - stiffer than I like, but the UI is a lot unpleasant for me and reportedly doesn’t activate unintentionally in pockets with other stuff.
Today is the first time I’ve carried it and it’s not down in my pocket, but clipped to the top.
I don’t carry lights down in my pocket, so I can’t comment on in-pocket activation.
For my Utorch UT01, I rotated the clip around to be in-line with the switch button and never had an accidental activation.
I don’t think I’d want a copper retaining ring around the switch button. Copper transmits heat really well …. perhaps too well for a switch retaining ring.
A retaining ring around the switchboot that’s going to be brushing my finger is not the kind of thing I’d want to get burning hot. I think steel would be fine.
Another option is to get a D4 and mechanically lock it out at the head.
This can be done rather simply by rotating the head 10 degrees to the right for lockout. You should be able to easily do it one-handed without adjusting your grip.
I own a number of Emisar D4 lights and have had them occasionally turn on in my pocket accidentally. It’s happened several times over the last year.
I always turn them off in moonlight mode. Most of the time it turned on accidentally it stayed in low power and did no harm.
However, a few weeks ago one accidentally turned on in my pocket and the button stayed depressed and ramped up. I only noticed when I felt my keys pressing into my leg. The light had burned a 1” hole in the side of my pocket. It was on the side of the pocket facing away from my leg so I didn’t feel a thing. Surprisingly, only the pocket was damaged. The thicker cloth on the outside of my pants adjacent to the hole wasn’t even singed.
This happened with a late model titanium D4 with a VTC6 inside. I’ve noticed that the switches in my more recent D4 lights tend to be softer and more likely to accidentally click on. And the extra weight of titanium and copper is more likely to apply enough pressure to make it happen.
When I use the Emisar D4 and the SP10B in the pocket I normally give them a slight twist in the head, that hinders them from turning ON.
As seen above, if you opt for the Sofirn SP32+A, you can also try to use it in a “shorty” configuration with a Convoy S2 18350 tube.
At least one of its versions (maybe the V1, released after the SP32) worked with the tube In size, it is about 5mm longer than a S2+ 18350!!
I wish there were a detent to make a “click” I could feel when a head or tailcap is turned to an effective lockout position.
That would add a slight bit of pressure holding the rotating piece in position too.
Another nice idea for a D4 would be for a flip-up cover attached to the bezel. The cover would be a flat box on a hinge and some kind of spring to keep it close. When closed it would completely cover the switch preventing accidental activation. Flip it up with your thumb to reveal the button. Sorta like those weapon safeties on attack helicopters or fighters.
If I had something like that I might even feel comfortable enough to turn off my D4 in turbo mode without first going back to moonlight.
EDIT: Hahaha… Chadvone beat me to it. But I’m thinking of something much, MUCH smaller and flatter.
I recently picked up the Fenix E-16 and it is a great little light. It is a very small light that I am planning using on the bill of my ball cap.
It puts out 700 lumens in turbo with a rechargeable 16340. Obviously it warms up fairly quickly being as small as it is. It is new so there is no modding history and it doesn’t look easy to do.
The biggest plus is that the pocket clip will prevent it from being turned on by accident if it is rotated over the switch.