Thanks all. I have had the tiny, I just gifted an Olight to my son. He did say that the button was stiff.
Looks like I am down to a washer or just feeling the heat. Might just have to stick to my modded Partner or my stock Prime.
We need someone with a lathe to make a custom taller ring for the Emisar D4 and then offer a group buy here on BLF.
I’ll take 10! 
The Wuben E05 that I received two days ago has a very stiff switch - stiffer than I like, but the UI is a lot unpleasant for me and reportedly doesn’t activate unintentionally in pockets with other stuff.
Today is the first time I’ve carried it and it’s not down in my pocket, but clipped to the top.
I don’t carry lights down in my pocket, so I can’t comment on in-pocket activation.
For my Utorch UT01, I rotated the clip around to be in-line with the switch button and never had an accidental activation.
Kiriba-ru might be the one to ask about that. Its not copper but he seems to do quite a few other custom parts.
Hank might even do it if he had enough request.
I don’t think I’d want a copper retaining ring around the switch button. Copper transmits heat really well …. perhaps too well for a switch retaining ring.
A retaining ring around the switchboot that’s going to be brushing my finger is not the kind of thing I’d want to get burning hot. I think steel would be fine.
I meant he usually makes copper parts but I think he could do steel also.
Another option is to get a D4 and mechanically lock it out at the head.
This can be done rather simply by rotating the head 10 degrees to the right for lockout. You should be able to easily do it one-handed without adjusting your grip.
I’ve never had any light do that, and most of mine are side switches.
DQG tiny, utorch ut10, thorfire tk18, tk05, wuben t70, xtar wk42, manker u11, none of them ever did that
I own a number of Emisar D4 lights and have had them occasionally turn on in my pocket accidentally. It’s happened several times over the last year.
I always turn them off in moonlight mode. Most of the time it turned on accidentally it stayed in low power and did no harm.
However, a few weeks ago one accidentally turned on in my pocket and the button stayed depressed and ramped up. I only noticed when I felt my keys pressing into my leg. The light had burned a 1” hole in the side of my pocket. It was on the side of the pocket facing away from my leg so I didn’t feel a thing. Surprisingly, only the pocket was damaged. The thicker cloth on the outside of my pants adjacent to the hole wasn’t even singed.
This happened with a late model titanium D4 with a VTC6 inside. I’ve noticed that the switches in my more recent D4 lights tend to be softer and more likely to accidentally click on. And the extra weight of titanium and copper is more likely to apply enough pressure to make it happen.
My D4 is probably on in my pocket more then out 
I wear jean most of the time.
AEDe hooked me up with a switch bezel for my Skilhunt H03, and it works GREAT. I will ask him. I PM’ed him with a link to this thread.
I would be down for a few switch bezel gaurds.
When I use the Emisar D4 and the SP10B in the pocket I normally give them a slight twist in the head, that hinders them from turning ON.
As seen above, if you opt for the Sofirn SP32+A, you can also try to use it in a “shorty” configuration with a Convoy S2 18350 tube.
At least one of its versions (maybe the V1, released after the SP32) worked with the tube 
In size, it is about 5mm longer than a S2+ 18350!!
I wish there were a detent to make a “click” I could feel when a head or tailcap is turned to an effective lockout position.
That would add a slight bit of pressure holding the rotating piece in position too.
Something like this might work 
Another nice idea for a D4 would be for a flip-up cover attached to the bezel. The cover would be a flat box on a hinge and some kind of spring to keep it close. When closed it would completely cover the switch preventing accidental activation. Flip it up with your thumb to reveal the button. Sorta like those weapon safeties on attack helicopters or fighters.
If I had something like that I might even feel comfortable enough to turn off my D4 in turbo mode without first going back to moonlight.
EDIT: Hahaha… Chadvone beat me to it. But I’m thinking of something much, MUCH smaller and flatter.
I recently picked up the Fenix E-16 and it is a great little light. It is a very small light that I am planning using on the bill of my ball cap.
It puts out 700 lumens in turbo with a rechargeable 16340. Obviously it warms up fairly quickly being as small as it is. It is new so there is no modding history and it doesn’t look easy to do.
The biggest plus is that the pocket clip will prevent it from being turned on by accident if it is rotated over the switch.
It’s worth a look anyway.
Bob
LOL, Like minds. Took me a while to find what it was.
I agree smaller and flatter, spring loaded like a Zippo lighter and it comes on when you open it and off when you close it.
Thanks Bob. Can you still turn it on with the pocket clip over the switch?
Yes, but you have to push it very hard to turn it on. There is no way that it would happen accidentally.
I also like the magnet in the back end.
Bob
The Olight S1 mini Baton also doesn’t turn on, even if you press it flat on a surface.
But it is hard to mod and HCRI tends to a green ring
Just did a very simple mod on one of my Emisar D4 lights.
- Remove the retaining ring. Best way that I found is to use the nail file from a standard small Victorinox mini pocket knife. The tip of the file tapers to a flat end. And unlike a conventional screwdriver there are no sharp edges so the rubber button shouldn’t be damaged. With the file portion of the file almost parallel to the button boot, insert it at a shallow angle over the top of the button. Dig the tip of the file into the rubber below the edge of the retaining ring, then lever upwards. The ring should pop right off.
- Remove the rubber switch boot. On the underside of the boot is a tiny post intended to hit the switch.
- Snip off this post using a small scissors. The scissors in the Victorinox mini are ideal for this purpose. The goal is to cut off the post so the interior of the button cover is flat. Take off only the post. Do not go deeper.
- Reassemble. Place the switch boot in place and then insert the retaining ring. To get the retaining ring to lock back into place, I found that placing the switch upside down on a small anvil and then applying steady pressure by hand worked well (do not hammer). I tried to only have the edge of the retainining ring I wanted to press down on the anvil. Once that was in I rotated the light and repeated. I tried to avoid placing the center of the switch boot directly onto the anvil.
Result: The button now requires noticeably more pressure to depress. My guess about two to three times as much. It also clicks on at a deeper depth than with an unmodified boot. I can now place the light button-down on a desk and press and the pressure from the desk will no longer activate the switch.
The entire mod was pretty fast and took less than 5 minutes. While this doesn’t eliminate chances of accidentally pocket activation it certainly makes it less likely.