I just want to comment that these lights make excellent "mules" for tailstanding "candlelight" - even stock (stock esp. if you want more runtime I suppose). Just unscrew the head and you have a very wide even spread of light. Tailstand it and you'll light up a room (or a tent, etc. . .).
Quick question and a little bit off topic, I have some of the flashlights from this old thread: Linky Which Cree LED should I buy? There are so many different ones that I don’t know which one to choose. Thanks again.
I'd suggest going ahead with an XM-L (neutral white T6 3C - see International Outdoor - probably want 20mm ) and run it like this one - direct drive single mode. I think Old Lumens did a mod similar to this one from those same lights - would have to search for it. Wait! Here it is! I see O-L beefed up the heatsink. I also saw in your linked thread that dchomakmodded the heatsink with pennies.
You could go with the Nichia 219 as well for better CRI, but it won't be nearly as bright.
Believe it or not, the Nichia is darned near as bright as the XM-L. I believe that is because the AAA cells can’t put out the amps necessary to push the XM-L, so it’s all limited to the AAA bottle neck.
You could use a T5, or T4, an XP-G or G2. Any number of leds can be used. It's all in what you want for output and use. As I said, the 3AAA batts limit the output anyhow, so just decide on a small hot spot or larger hot spot. A Nichia would give you a smaller hot spot. A XM-L will give you a larger hot spot. An XP-G will be somewhere in between.
If you don't know, then it's probably good to do some basic searching. Google image search for Cree XM-L, or Cree XP-G or Nichia 219 and add "beam shot" or "tint" and you should find some images showing tints or at least beam shots. Other than that, I would suggest the Nichia for better indoor color rendition and the 5700k and higher crees for "seemingly" brighter beams outdoors.
I totally missed this thread. I bought these and modded one too. I didn’t do Nichia, XP-G instead. I also didn’t fill the pill in, But at one Amp it’s not a heater. Driver swapped to AK-47A.
I did manage to get it to fit an unprotected 18650. I had to trim the nub off of the switch retainer.
Not a bad little light; up to three hours run time on high, and throws half-decent too.
The one I have (Defiant 3xAAA, in 2 pack, one black, one silver) has a single piece head. There’s no seam at all on the head, so I don’t think there is a bezel. I’ve tried to carefully grab the hole of the reflector from the back (didn’t want to damage it), but it doesn’t budge, or turn, at all).
Do you push it from the front (i.e., push the lens from the front) and then both the reflector and lens come out the back (the threaded end) of the head?
Yes, you are correct. As you probably suspect, it would just push out the front and not hold the LED down if it pushed the other way. I just dug mine out and verified it is just pressed in. No glue. You should just be able to push out with your thumb.