What "lectronic switch"? Does that driver use an "lectronic switch"?
-Garry
No electronic switch…tail clicky.
double dumbass only got as far as poks photo when scrolling back lol.
so yeah, that 5a driver would be great, dedomed xp-g2 on copper or xm-l2 u2 dedomed on copper and its gotta hit at least 200kcd
I have not been able to make it do more than 5,2A best. My testing have been limited though. I went back to stock, 5A. Unless someones makes it do 5,5A+ then Ill consider 5A the limit..
LCK-LED (/intl-outdoor/lightmalls) driver is the default "backup driver" for small pills... Ideally, Id like to use a driver that can do higher current in this light..
good to know, it is just a modded ld-29 at the end of the day, it must have limits. I’d not seen any testing reported though, guess you were keeping it under your hat.
so what 6a drivers do we have available?
Well, I don't write about everything I do. And its not that many weeks since I did it.. Most people does not have much interest for minor details. I have tried to share various small stuff in my flashlight collection thread. But little response/interest/questions.
High current drivers for single XM-L thread.
Btw, I have done beamshots of various throwers and lights, some at 5amps..
Edit: I skipped the word "don't.... First sentence now fixed "I don't write about everything I do" :p
fyi.. The LCK-LED and the IOS driver are the same driver, just different resistor values. That driver is easily resistor mod-able. Also, the FT $8 (FT-2-3-lithium-5-mode-3a-led) one is also the same driver, just a different inductor - I resistor mod'ed that one.
Racer86 - good info. I work with EE's, one guy who has worked on LED designs before. Basically the circuit design and components is based on the max amps spec to a degree, so you could have been seeing a brick wall there for this design with the 5.2A limit. Of course your test may depend on the voltages in and out, ie 2-3 cells, 1-3 LED's, etc. Using the TI website tool to design your circuit, if he puts in 6A as output, the parts get rather huge, too big for driver sizes we need - it was interesting, but of course that auto circuit generation is based on everything being within spec I'm sure, while we tend to go over a bit beyond the limits 
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Thanks the for the pictures. Good to know that the base of the reflector has step. 
The driver in this light looks to be the same as in the uniquefire UF-X6S, and its several siblings.
Here is a close up:
I never tried to mod it. It gave it away in a giveaway.. These days I always see what can be done with stock drivers before changing them.
So, we have two (sense?) resistors. R200 and R270. Im guessing they are in parallel. Adding more resistors will probably equal higher current. :) ^^
(if not poof, sorry Garry, I did warn you on the 3-18V driver 0:) )
We also have 2 of those brown thingies (aka capacitators). Putting a low value resistor on top of one of those normally fixes next mode memory. (330K or lower will probably do) Anyone know which one??
I also see a resistor/bridge marked "0". Could it possibly be like some various others drivers and transform the light into a 3 mode if its not there/bridged?
Cool thanks for the info. I guess it will be another DRY driver for me. I should buy stock in the company. Mine was marked shipped but the tracking number doesn’t work.
I sure wish the MT-G2’s would de-dome as easy as XML’s. Has anyone figured out a consistent way to do that yet?
They seem pretty easy to dedome to me. I've done 3 so far. My favorite way is to use a heat gun. I aim it down on the emitter. When I see the solder melt, I turn off the gun and wait a second for the solder to solidify. Then I lift the dome off. It always breaks up. So you basically have to pick/crumble it off. Just keep the temp high so you don't remove phosphor.
I leave scraps of silicone over the diode area because I'm chicken. I don't want to lose any phosphor because I like the NW/WWish tint. I think it can be all lifted off, but I need to get some magnification and have a steady hand day to try a total silicone removal. The scraps (actually like silicone crumbs) don't seem to hurt the beam. Probably reduce lux a bit.
I don’t have a heat gun, I doubt a hair dryer would work would it? I have a hot head torch for melting glass I think that might be a little overkill though. I suppose I could just overdrive it until it’s blazing hot and try that. Does it help with the throw a lot or just so so?
I don't think you would have to overdrive it if you don't have it heatsinked. I did the first two heating from underneath like reflowing. It works but the phosphor seems to get softer and easier to lift off. It is much slower and feels like the emitter is being exposed to way too much heat.
I use an el cheapo hot air gun from Harbor Freight. Less than $10. I use the low setting. I use a sharp dental pick to pick off the silicone.
Throw improves tremendously. Here are some measurements. How's this for a beam shot. The reflector is from the Defiant XML Spotlight. The tint does not appear yellow in real life. This is beige wall and the camera sitting is daylight which seems to always make yellow pictures. The emitter is slightly off center.
Cool I might have to give it a shot. It’s a wicked looking beam.
Here is the emitter from the above shot. It was my second dedome. I didn't try to get close on the silicone removal as I was a tired. I should also say you want to protect the dedomed emitter from flux splatter when you solder near it. Also, clean it with alcohol every time before you put it back in a light. I squirt the dedomed emitter with alcohol and also use an alcohol soaked Q-tip to wipe it down. I haven't lost any phosphor doing that and I have cleaned the first couple dedomed emitters many, many times.
Thanks it sounds like it should be worth giving it a shot. I like these but I’m not really 100% sold on them yet. Maybe if I get good at de-doming them I will like them a little more.
From a pure throw perspective, I'm starting to get frustrated with the MT-G2. That's just because I want to get supper high kcd readings. But from a real actual usage perspective, I love the emitter. It throws further than I need for must situations. I've been focusing on big reflector lights so far. Once I finalize some MT-G2 lights, I will will have to make a good RaceR86-type SRK and see how it compares. He makes a compelling argument for the multi-emitter lights.
I like my 2x but it gets hot fast on turbo but it has the nicest pure flood of any of my lights. It has a hotspot if you are whitewall hunting but not noticeable and no rings at all. it’s really great for walking in the woods with.
It will be interesting to see what an MT-G2 will do in this light. I haven't seen any beam shots to get a feel for how tight it focuses for throw. Given it's dimensions, it will probably flood and have decent throw (probably in the 40 - 60 kcd range) with a domed MT-G2. Dedomed, it will probably be in the 80 - 100 kcd range. I hope it surprises me though.
Got my light today..
First impressions, nice mod host for the price.
I saw 0,9A at the tail and 1,8A at the emitter, slightly lower current than with my other similar driver in the uniquefire (linked to above) and compared to _the_.
Did some very quick testing..
1,82A to the emitter "bench setup".
Added R120. 3,8A to the emitter, driver got hot very soon, did not dare to test it for some time..
2,56A to MT-G2 with same setup (extra R120). Due to this, I would not recommenced the driver for MT-G2.
Despite being so hot wiht and added R120 I added another R500 on top of that J) (there might be a slight possibility it was another R120). Saw 4,2A but current was dropping towards 4A fast, and it smelled burnt. This will most likely kill the driver very fast!
Not even sure if this driver will handle 3A++ (to XM-L). But it is easy to resistor mod. The driver is nicely regulated with quite stable output. When input voltage gets low (for 2 series setup) emitter current increases a little bit, up towards 0,2A.
The light can fit long protected batteries.