Leads are about 15cm long and about 12-14awg with gold plated banana connectors soldered on the ends. I use a Fluke DMM.
Maybe you should have soldered a 22ga silicone wire to ground on the inside of the driver and used the ground screw Sinner provided in the pill.
haha I had no idea what that screw was for! but it makes perfect sense now! I would have thought the way I have the earth setup would still be a pretty good connection?
If I connect a battery directly to the driver spring and ground ring and take a reading that should rule out an earth issue shouldn’t it?
Ok, some improvements have been found but I’m still not there. Turns out I picked up the slightly used VTC5 and not the one I had checked the voltage of (stupid me!!). Anyway now with the definite 4.20V VTC5 I am getting 6.80A at the tailcap. So it’s an improvement but still not the 10A I was hoping for.
I am now getting 7.30A? Does the battery perform better once it has been sitting for a while?
I have seen that or similar. I think that’s why they typically measure tailcap current after 30 secs to get a ‘truer’ measurement?
Well I just took it for some testing outside and wow this thing is unreal for its size!
A ton of output, a great tint and an absolutely stunning host!
Honestly even at 7.30A this chunk of copper heats up in seconds anyway so I think I will just leave it be.
Now I can’t decide which optic I want to use!
Comfy recommends it as being a wee bit tighter than a 10507. I’ve got 3 up XP-L’s de-domed under mine. It was “only” pulling 10.7A so I’m redoing it this morning. I too bypassed the ground screw and I think it’s pretty tough getting a solid ground on that big copper pill with solder. At any rate, the solder came off all too quick and clean so I’m pretty sure I’ll see more amperage and output with the ground screw utilized.
Damaged the driver getting it out, building a new one. Hoping to see more than the 3126 lumens I was seeing. 
Might the 3xXP-G2 that Lsx is using vs. 3 x XP-L account for the current diff?
Ah that’s interesting, I hadn’t thought of polishing a frosted one. Do you recommend anything in particular to polish them?
I also found that the solder wouldn’t stick to the copper so I sat a piece of copper braid in the edge of the opening and then pressed the driver into position and it took a bit of pressure so the braid will be making good contact with the pill. I then soldered the exposed braid to the driver. I’m pretty confident I got a good earth doing it this way.
On mine I was running 2 dedomed and one dome on XP-G2’s. The exact measurements (using an external shunt) was 13.45A with 18AWG, tuned down to 11A with 22AWG. I was going for less so I ended up dialing the PWM_LVL back to 200 to give me 8.4A.
That’s huge numbers! I wish I had bench tested this set up before installing it in the light.
Oh man, you should ALWAYS bench test! Even if its a light you’ve built many times before. RMM got on me about this several months back and let me tell you it’s saved me SO MANY headache’s on tiny little things that shoudnt have been an issue at all that had the light been put together would of taken me much much longer to diag & fix.
I just went through that today actually, cost me 2 drivers. So the moral of the story is a good one…benchtest! 
Yup, learned that the hard way too. Comfy recommended to polish the carclo with jewelers rouge on a sheet of paper, I’ll try to find the thread and post a link. Dedomed XPGs also make a nice beam in a Carclo triple.
Now after seeing those pics again, I think I like the 10507 with dedomed better…
I found this and thought it would be a good place to store the find…
Pretty sure I posted that in Chibi’s thread on anodizing Titanium… but as it’s so helpful this is a good place for a backup.
A refresher…
Nice build LSX. I hate to repeat what everyone said but I to learnt to test and retest after every step to save disappointment. Its about time you invested in a new house with air conditioned garage. 