Great pics!! thanks for sharing.
I was thinking if the board fails, go the multi-7135 route. Hardest part would be finding a panel mount switch that drops into the hole to go in-line with -B. You could also probably bypass the switch and use the body as a twisty.
looks like a great light though!! I went a different direction, single XML + 26650 route... but I've got this one on radar! watching to see what the DIY modders can come up with too.
weiser701...I think you hit the nail on the head with your observations. I had my doubts about the KINGs reflectors being more centered than the others, I would imagine that is the cause for the slight donut hole. The Ultrafire reflectors are quite a bit larger than the others, no doubt accounts for its better throw.
I'd like to know the answer to that one too. I would have purchase the J12, but then these smaller form factor lights hit the market, so that's what I ended up going with. The J12 is under-driven but has 5 LED's, maybe someone that views this thread will chime in for an estimate of where the J12 fits within this group of lights.
Can someone give me a bit of advice checking the tail reading on my KING? I assembled some high end silicone wiring soldered to neodymium magnets in order to secure them to the negative battery terminals. It was difficult to make this measurement, but on HIGH I get 5a. I can't be completely sure all batteries were in full contact with the positive end, but I did my best.
Batteries were Redilast 3100's fully charged to 4.2v each. Here is a photo of my contraption. I also don't know if the magnets were affecting the readings.
Is 5a a low reading for a parallel battery configuration?
Nice comparison pics Richie086!
The KING has a donut on the center, that is notorious in the pics, and the DRY has the nicest beam pattern, but I'm a bit skeptical about the brightness... Were all the pics taken with the same camera settings? I mean, always the same exposure, ISO, White Balance and that type of settings.
That’s weird… maybe the resistance of the magnets? Maybe the test leads you are using (try with thick wires only, directly on the DMM). It is not easy to measure tailcap current with this flashlight… maybe the best thing to do is put the DMM directly to the driver at one LED.
Hi FX...yes, all digital camera settings were the same. 2.5, F5.0, ISO 80. I manually adjusted the settings so the photos appeared very close to real life before taking any beam shots. Yep, the DRY is really one amazing little torch.
Based on EXIF data they seem to be: 2.5 sec, f/5, ISO 80, WB:Manual
Others are reporting over 7A, 1.8A per cell so yeah 5A does seem lower.
Maybe try turning the magnets over so the tinned wire makes -B contact and you're not conducting through the magnet? I would also firmly press the cells down against the +V while taking the measurement, to simulate the spring pressure.
How are you making probe contact with the -V on the driver board?
I'm contacting the -V on the driver board in the exact spot the tail cap would contact. Yeah, I had misgivings about using the magnets. I'll try as you suggest and see what I get. Thanks.
Turning the magnets over so the tinned wires make -B contact achieved 5.85a. It was difficult holding everything together and applying a good amount of downward force. Needless to say, using this method on this particular flashlight is much to imprecise, so I know I'm still missing out on some higher readings.
After attempting this, I believe the only proper way to get a precise current reading is to take it apart which I don't think I want to do at this time. It's certainly putting out enough power from what I can see, I was merely curious. Thanks for your great suggestions.
Try thick wires with DMM, You will see the result 
Here I've just take some photos for you
You can see very thin stock wires.
Now changed for better contact with thick wires.
My DMM set up, never push/pull out the wires for measurement Amps/Volts 
That is a great setup. I'm going to look around the internet and grab a couple of banana clips and some super size alligator clips and make this same setup. Thank you for the great photos!
I don't see the doughnut hole on the King's!
No doughnut hole for almost multiple LED
I'm about to order one of these from CNQ, but which output color looks better? The CW or the NW? Anyone have a kelvin rating on these? I have a Fenix TK35 and a Olight i1 EOS and both of those seem to emit a warm white. Is the NW rating of the Skyray King similar to my current lights? I'm just being careful as this is my first quad-digit light canon. ^_^
This is what I get:
Invalid Forum specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator 
1 hour ago it worked.
It was actually a pro comparison of the King vs TM11, by someone who said English is not his native language. Maybe it was from China.
yes. that fellow, aku is well-known on the chinese forums. he's the chinese selfbuilt haha. Seems as if he or cpf deleted the thread.