Mine is 1.9A. Good beam and working mode memory, too.
I quite like it. I'm 2 for 2 in decent products from Skyray.
Make sure your battery is good.
Well now I have excelent excuse to buy another light :) Thats how it starts... flashaholic.
Is this really q3 led?
I have tried 4 different batteries - 2 x GP 2700mAh, Gp 2000mAh and Aerocell alkaline batteries. No difference in output... I doubt that my batteries have so much more internal resistance compared to Eneloop. Maybe my multimeter is faulty, but thats not likely...
You can't tell bin without somewhat sophisticated methodology.
That emitter looks badly mounted. You can take out the pill (unscrews from the back of the head) and see if there's anything amiss.
It looks ok as far as I know... I probably just got diferent (low power) driver :(
If you have some wires and a couple extra hands you can try connecting the battery terminals direct to the driver's back to eliminate the body as a problem.
Or if you have a small value resistor/diode, a lithium, and some more hands you can connect right up to the emitter. If you had yet more hands (or a battery carrier :)), 3 x nimh works well too. The way that emitter is mounted looks a bit wonky to me.
There seems to be space between the LED and the base (badly mounted,should be perfectly flat over the base) 
if so, the LED will overheat in seconds and emit less light quickly.
This reflector is not specific for XPE. Should expose all of the LED package...
The reflector is specific to the XP. Nothing else will fit. It's the other kind with the big hole that is inconsistent in centering and all that.
Maybe, but my Fenix TK12 R5 expose all of the LED (XPG) package and also my ITP A1 (XPE) and both have a perfect beam...
Sure it exposes the whole led, it's just harder to center, which is bad news on the cheap chinese lights (when you consider they even screw up the light above, lol). When I look down the barrel of my A1, the whole reflector is yellow, which is good.
How many hands do you have? 
Never enough ;)
Pozdravljen Udo! (Welcome) :)
Btw, don't ever again buy that HOFER Aerocell alkaline batteries! :) Pure junk and low energy density. Try GP AA alkalines can be found cheap in our country. VARTA high energy are also good but very expensive. Don't bother with duracell as we import lower quality batches it seems. Oh, and switch to Li-ion technology... it's a whole new world if you haven't yet.
Hello Budgeteer, seems such a small world to bump into another Slovenian on this forum
Aerocell are LIDL batteries and by my experience and several tests on the internet are actually quite good, especially for 0,2€ - at that price I am almost to lazy to use recharchables.
Some tests: http://www.testberichte.de/p/aerocell-tests/alkaline-batterie-mignon-aa-lr6-testbericht.html . I also have 8xAA GP 2000mAh and 8xAA 2700mAh ni-mh, which are also quite OK.
But yes, li-ion is the way to go - I have 2x14500+charger on the way.
Hi UDO,
Yes indeed. Oh i must be getting old... I mix up often LIDL and HOFER since i shop in both. :)
I bought them in one occasion and i was pretty disappointed. I use enelloop's for nimh and sanyo 2700nimh. Bought the eneloops for my wife camera to justify the 4 pack so i can get 2 for me. :)
Anyway... since going on li-ion i found out the light's arent that much bigger compard to a good AA using a 18650 cell. Now i carry a L2 clone which is roughly 12cm in lenght. The cell also last for hours
and above all li-ion have a very low self dicharge which is pretty good.
Beware what charger you get! Most are so low in quality that you might consider a good one to not burn the house down.
Update: today I got 14500 and I tested it in skyray S-A1. Much better than on AA, but still not totaly satisfied and my multimeter comfirms it. Still only 0,6A current draw on max with 14500 - so it looks like my skyray has a current limit of 0,6A, no mather what the voltage is... Now im going to try c30 zoomable with 14500 in direct drive - because I am tired of low power lights and I really dont care if P4 led blows :)
Hopefully I dont purchased it
There's something wrong with the contacts in that light other than the driver itself. There's no way it's a boost/buck, and on "direct drive" above the lowish Vf of xp-e's should produce higher current. You can try checking resistance with your meter.
Of my two A1's, other than the generally crap threads, 1 is great, and the other has offset emitter board I need to fix.
two of these from DX and both were excellent. The output on a 14500 was quite the same like the Trustfire F25.
The only thing i dislike on my S-A1 is when battery voltage goes below 1,32V the memory function goes crazy. Sometimes it doesen't even work at all and the flashlight won't light up.
Is that for alkalines? At that level, they're likely drop to <1.1V under 2A load, and tend to lie about their capacity if you measure w/o load. If it doesn't work at 1.32v, nihm's wouldn't work at all.