Sleeping Beauty - Stock looking 2AA Maglite with a 3-Up Nichia 219 set-up. - Beam Shots



From the outside, it's a sleeper, till you look at the lens.

I bought a couple parallel 3-up stars from Illumination Supply. They are bare stars for the Cree XP-G and of course, the Nichia 219 fit right on. I also bought some Carlco Optics from IL. I got both the clear and the frosted.


I started with the stock head and opened it up to 20mm, with a dremel tool. I made a copper heat sink as well. It's much thicker than the normal ones I do, because the stack up on the star and optic is so thin.

Here's a video on the heat sink



I reflowed the 3 Nichias on to the star, using my normal method, with a soldering iron under the star. It worked well.


Here's how thin the stack is. It leaves a lot of room for a heat sink.


Wired up. Remember, these are in parallel.


Everything together and ready to go.


A little insurance for heat transfer to the head.


I am testing with a dummy cell that I made and a Saft cell that was given to me by scaru.


It works!

I will do some beam shots later tonight. It's not a house on fire, but it is bright. Do they make IMR 14500 cells? It would need to be a strong 14500, to really give this any amps. No I didn't check amp draw. I might do that later.

Very nice!!

Very nice, O-L! Yes, AW makes an IMR 14500 for high draw applications. I use mine in a C-X modified Balder SE-1.

Yeah, they make IMR 14500s. In my expierence the saft ones and normal 14500s can do 2-2.5 amps while IMR might be able to handle 3-4 amps.

Almost forgot to say it but, Nice work!

2 thumbs up! Great job!

So this one gonna be the next christmas sale???

Nice. Are you taking pictures with both lenses? I picked up a couple of AW 14500's the other day from this link from HKJ. Not cheap though.

ISO 100, Daylight WB, F:2.7, 1 Second


ISO 100, Daylight WB, F:2.7, 1 Second


ISO 100, Daylight WB, F:2.7, 1 Second


I think a lot of the problem is with the battery. I don't think the Saft battery can give enough amps to the leds. I tried a second battery and the light got brighter for a minute or two.


I think IMR will be needed to run this little light.

Cool how-it’s-made video, O-L. Too bad those 3xAA Mini MagLED lights aren’t being made anymore. I have a feeling 3xAA NiMH would work really well in resistored/DD parallel 3-up light.

So this is obviously direct drive? Adding a driver would theoretically be as easy as using the driver itself to form the base of the pill and adding a copper tower instead of a spring? Though the you couldn't fill it with copper shot for obvious reasons...

Yes, it is direct drive. I prefer direct drive for two reasons. First, I’m old school and a flashlight should turn on and off. Second, is yes, a driver takes up room and that does mean less of, or no heat sink and I know what that brings. (LED heat stroke). Wink