OP doing “research” here already from 2012, but research didn’t come to Convoy or Emisar lights yet… 
Holy hell! 10 years. I feel played. Haha. Stop messing with us, Meeshu, we know you have a D4S already… 
[quote=meeshu]
Not seeing the logic. It is nice to have manufacturers specs as a starting point. But the fact that there aren’t any available, but people you asked for advice are recommending something, and reviews are out there… hardly seems to warrant completely discounting those options.
Advice from people using a light along with reviews from trusted reviewers with hard numbers and beam shots, is without a doubt better for making a decision than marketing numbers from the manufacturer. Especially when they don’t even document how they got the numbers.
You have a set of requirements that are hard, if not impossible, to attain from a single light. You are making your life more difficult by writing off many excellent lights based on the absence of published specs. But your choice… A bit of self imposed agony IMHO.
Anyway, I wish you luck.
There are some nice 999999900lm lights out there if you look. 
[/quote]
[quote=Mandrake50]
Thanks!
I have now found four lights so far that seem to be suitable based on my requirements. Most of the suggested lights here have been looked into, but a lot of other lights from (major) manufacturers have been looked into also. The suggestions here are appreciated!
As mentioned previously, reviews of lights are not always helpful, especially in terms of lights outputs and runtimes. Most reviews seem to focus on turbo and high runtimes only and skip testing the remaining lower levels of light outputs. Not really helpful. Review beamshots, though, are helpful.
Word of mouth suggestions for lights that are without any light specifications and/or without any light reviews are not really useful, as it is somewhat open to subjective interpretation what is floody, what is throwy, high bright they are, and how long they run for. So it helps to have actual data on the lights.
Nice. What four light are you looking at?
The question is too vague.
Is the Astrolux EA01S in the running? Multiple tubes for different cell sizes; 21700 is an easy fit in a 5th pocket in jeans, and gives you the option of using a 26xxx cell tube when you want. 4 LEDs make it floody, and has mode memory (and ramping) to pick the exact output you want. If you’re running it around 2-4k lumens (not near to turbo max), runtime should be well over your requirements.
In the end there were several lights to consider - Acebeam EC65, Thrunite T2, Klarus G20, Wuben TO50R, Imalent MS03, Wurkkos TS22, Olight Baton Pro.
Acebeam EC65 - didn't get this light as it is difficult to find, and it is a bit on the expensive side
Thrunite T2 - bought this light
Klarus G20 - bought this light also!
Wuben TO50R - didn't buy this light as it is quite expensive(!) Plus, it is possible to mix up operating the two button switches as they are right next to each other
Imalent MS03 - didn't get this light primarily because of its proprietary battery cell requirement. Plus it is way too expensive!!
Wurkkos TS22 - didn't get this light because I bought the T2 and G20 instead. Plus some runtimes are a bit on the low side
Olight Baton Pro - didn't get this light as it seems to be unavailable now anyway
Ironically, I was just reading the thread and thinking my Klarus G20L might fit the requirements. Did you look at that as well as the G20?
Yes. I did look at the G20L. Although this light has a fairly decent spill light, its hotspot beam is just a bit too narrow for my purposes. This is based on data from specifications and reviews.
It actually has quite a wide beam and doesn’t throw that far- noting I haven’t got a G20 to compare it to. I’ve got an XHP70.3 HI ready to fit in mine (to improve the throw), but am waiting on some other bits I need to do the job.
IIRC the G20 has a narrow reflector with the body the same width as the head, whereas the G20L has a larger diameter reflector and head? That makes it bulkier to carry.
fw3a is small, somewhat floody, long run time for 18650
wle
Thanks. The G20L has what I consider a standard beam, not really floody and not really a narrow beam either. Regardless, the beam is not floody enough. And yes, the G20L has a wide bezel/head which I don't really like anyway.
Thanks. I did look into the Lumintop FW3A light, but the light beam is not floody enough for my purposes.
What is your purpose and how floody?
Might be worth considering different optic types. Reflector lights (even multi emitter ones) tend to have a spot and spill beam. Larger LEDs normally have a bigger hot spot and brighter spill. And an OP reflector can help blend/merge the hot spot corona into the spill more evenly. This means a small LED (XP-G2/SST-20) can give quite good throw and quite good spill flood at moderate drive levels (assuming a tube style light). A large LED will be brighter, but to get the beam distance you’ll need to drive it harder and probably still not match the lux readings of the smaller LED. So it is a bit of a trade off and balancing act. If you have to drive the LED hard (high amps) to get the beam distance, it means the torch will generally run hot and likely only have shorter runtimes at that beam distance. But up close the beam should be brighter and more even. The smaller LED will normally be able to attain the higher lux without being driven really hard, as it isn’t relying solely on lumen output to attain beam distance.
A shallow reflector will give you a wider spill beam and usually a larger hot spot. While a deeper reflector should give you a more focused hot spot and a smaller diameter spill beam, which should be slightly brighter than a really wide spill beam from the same setup.
Multi emitter setups will use smaller and usually shallower reflectors. So based on the above, you can see they will offer a bigger hot spot and wider spill beam as a rule.
Also take note that the bezel can also impact the diameter of the spill beam, if it is a deep bezel. Shiny bezels (stainless etc) can also sometimes cause rings and other artefacts in the beam.
The other option is to look at TIR optics. These can be single or multi emitter. A TIR is generally smaller than many reflectors or a similar size to a shallow reflector. TIRs also come with different internal dimensions, it is these that will change the focus.
A TIR can have a bright central hotspot. Although generally the spill beam diameter is more narrow. And you’ll often see two distinct spill beams. One quite narrow and bright and a wider duller one. The transition is less smooth than an OP reflector light. The hotspot can also often be quite big with a TIR, even with small emitters. When you have a hot spot, the TIR can still throw quite well, but it is balancing trick and most are not setup for max throw, but a blend of useful characteristics.
Other TIR setups can be setup much more for an even flood. Essentially what you are getting is a “huge” hot spot, that is even and bright. The spill beam is very small and dims rather than a sharp cutoff. I really like this kind of beam for EDC. The beam is not as wide as the spill from a reflector, but because the hot spot is massive by comparison, it means they are nice for walking and lighting up things in front of you for 1 - 3 car lengths. Throw is not their main attribute, although the beam distance can still be quite good, especially at higher lumen outputs.
Multi TIR setups will generally allow more lumens, but often less throw as they are smaller lenses. These can be tailored to have a wide or narrow beam also.
There are some rare zooming TIR lights (Led Lenser/Coast mostly). Which can give some very good beams, although sometimes they can be a bit ringy on full flood, but it does depend on the emitter and lens.
There are other zoomy lights that use aspheric lenses. These can offer really nice flood beams that are completely even with a sharp cutoff at the edges. And zooming in can give you quite good distance in a narrow beam. But you do end up with the LED profile being projected when zoomed.
1 Thank
Thanks for the detailed reply!
A real floody light is preferred (with main beam angle in the region of around 50°, I believe this was mentioned in my first post). The reason being this would light up more areas without having to move the light left/right and up/down in order to illuminate wanted to be seen areas. This applies particularly when recording videos of walks/explorations inside and outside.
A bit of throw is also preferred as light would be used outdoors where some throw is beneficial to seeing what is in the (near) distance.
The Thrunite T2 and Klarus G20 lights that I've just bought seem to meet my requirements, so far. Although I have yet to carry out extensive testing to confirm these lights suitability for certain.
I have also purchased and looking at purchasing alternative lights with slightly less flood (and with beam angle around 35°) and with more throw for use outdoors (primarily). One such light is the Sofirn SP33s which I've just recently purchased seems to be about ideal for this outdoors work. But again, I have yet to carry out extensive testing.
I have yet to obtain a decent (video) camera to carry out tests. The camera I have in mind is fairly expensive (somewhere around US $2500), but it is rugged and works well in low light situations. Camera purchase will have to wait until early to mid next year. Although I have a cell phone with video recording capability, this is not of good quality and a better (video) camera is strongly preferred.