I wouldnāt want to put a number in it, I built mine from a host kit with an xm-l u2 and an ld-25 2.6a max driver. Bright enough is probably a fair answer, it warms up on high fairly quickly, as any small host pushing an xm-l likely will do.
Guessing, probably 700 lumens or so on high, but that is only a guess. It does give a lovely smooth beam and is extremely useful for its intended purpose, ie, a small bright pocket light that you can keep on your person at all times.
I love the sunwayman c20c that I have and it is one of the smaller 18650 lights I have.It's not really budget but the UI and output is worth the extra $$.It has a lock out feature for the side switch and sos and strobe are hidden.I hardly notice this light in my pocket and it's built tough,no regrets buying this one.Hope that helps.
Thanks, your guess is good enough for me. Since I can no longer buy the 10 packs of CR123ās(USPS doesnāt ship anymore), I thought Iād shift to a rechargeable capable light and since I have a few 18650ās already, I thought Iād replace my beat up P2D. Iād be really pleased with a brightness of around 700 lumens since I often return home during the night and I live in a bit of a secluded area.
Thanks again.
EDIT: Is that 700 lumens stock or after you modded it?
Mine started life āmoddedā, a host kit is a light with no led or driver. The light I linked just needs a battery. It uses 7 x AMC7135 chips so about 2.5a, mine uses a different driver that gives 2.6a, you wouldnāt be able to tell the difference side by side. So mine is good indicator of the standard u2 light, only real difference is, if I want the blinkies, I can pick them with the tailcap, the driver is either 5 mode or 3 mode, you pick what you want on the clicky, its also current controlled in all light levels, you never see flicker on a fan or running engine, whilst pwm doesnāt really bother me, and the nanjg drivers are sufficiently high pwm its almost unnoticeable, you can see it on the pulleys of a running engine. Since this is where my light seeās most action, its nice not to have it.
My driver also has memory (the nanjg drivers do too) so I memory low mode, high is a click away.
Saw this light a few days ago. Really tempting, host cost only $2.5 less
I donāt understand very well group switching āRuning 5 seconds on Low mode the light will flash,then you charge group by half pressing the switch.ā
So, if Iām on LO, and then I want HI, it will change the group instead of HI? :~
Host review by match: Review: OEM hosts from CNQG/Fancyflashlights.com
No, if you want high, wait for the flashing to finish, then select high.
It sounds odd, till you have a light with a selectable set of groups in hand, then it all makes sense,
If you want to change groups, select low, after a couple of seconds the light will flash, after or during the flashing turn off and on, you change groups (depends on the driver as to the exact when) if you just leave it, no mode change happens and you keep low.
A few of my lights have this setup now and for me it works fine, I can get 3 modes or blinkies, what ever I want and the (small) price to pay is a flash on low. I really wouldnāt worry about it tbh, its a good UI.
But then, it will always blink on LO after 5 sec?
Thanks, gords
PS: donāt remember very well, but that driver has low volt. warning or does it turns off automatically at, lets say, 2.8V so you can use it with unprotected cells without any problem?
But then, it will always blink on LO after 5 sec?
Thanks, gords
PS: donāt remember very well, but that driver has low volt. warning or does it turns off automatically at, lets say, 2.8V so you can use it with unprotected cells without any problem?
I think the low voltage warning is at 3v, yes you can use unprotected cells, you just have no over current protection ie dead short situation. I would prefer protected cells myself although I have just bought four unprotected Samsung 2800mah cells, Iām covered for fussy lights, Iāve just not found any yet, I have used one all week in a light on test (testing both cell capacity and light durability), that included extended time in a head strap as a head light - Iām not that worried, and that light did have a reflector shorting issue that Iāve resolved now.
Bottom line for me, ideally, good protected cells, a driver that has low volt cut off is a nice secondary protection but Iām unconvinced about it being the only protection, with the reflector short, I read 19a at the tail capā¦ā¦think on that when saving a couple of dollars, a protection circuit would have tripped, as it was I could have had a nasty accident if Iād not found and dealt with the issue.
Not to be picky, but thatās a whole 4 fricken millimeters longer than the last two suggestionsā¦
Although the tr-801 is supposedly more meaty host - better able to deal with heat, as I donāt yet have one, I donāt know for sure.
If lengths of no concern, Iād go for a trustfire t2 (side switch host) fit a 20mm 3up xp-g2 nw emitter set up with optics and a 12 x AMC7135 ak47 driver (yep, its stacking time).
Thatās one in the works, although substitute xp-g2 for nichia 219 hi criā¦.
Oh, one more thing. Any problems with battery fit? Does any 18650 fit with no problems? I was gonna choose between the palight and the EDC but it seems the palight has some battery fit problems.