Thanks, your guess is good enough for me. Since I can no longer buy the 10 packs of CR123’s(USPS doesn’t ship anymore), I thought I’d shift to a rechargeable capable light and since I have a few 18650’s already, I thought I’d replace my beat up P2D. I’d be really pleased with a brightness of around 700 lumens since I often return home during the night and I live in a bit of a secluded area.
Thanks again.
EDIT: Is that 700 lumens stock or after you modded it?
Mine started life “modded”, a host kit is a light with no led or driver. The light I linked just needs a battery. It uses 7 x AMC7135 chips so about 2.5a, mine uses a different driver that gives 2.6a, you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference side by side. So mine is good indicator of the standard u2 light, only real difference is, if I want the blinkies, I can pick them with the tailcap, the driver is either 5 mode or 3 mode, you pick what you want on the clicky, its also current controlled in all light levels, you never see flicker on a fan or running engine, whilst pwm doesn’t really bother me, and the nanjg drivers are sufficiently high pwm its almost unnoticeable, you can see it on the pulleys of a running engine. Since this is where my light see’s most action, its nice not to have it.
My driver also has memory (the nanjg drivers do too) so I memory low mode, high is a click away.
Saw this light a few days ago. Really tempting, host cost only $2.5 less 
I don’t understand very well group switching 
“Runing 5 seconds on Low mode the light will flash,then you charge group by half pressing the switch.”
So, if I’m on LO, and then I want HI, it will change the group instead of HI? :~
Host review by match: Review: OEM hosts from CNQG/Fancyflashlights.com
No, if you want high, wait for the flashing to finish, then select high.
It sounds odd, till you have a light with a selectable set of groups in hand, then it all makes sense,
If you want to change groups, select low, after a couple of seconds the light will flash, after or during the flashing turn off and on, you change groups (depends on the driver as to the exact when) if you just leave it, no mode change happens and you keep low.
A few of my lights have this setup now and for me it works fine, I can get 3 modes or blinkies, what ever I want and the (small) price to pay is a flash on low. I really wouldn’t worry about it tbh, its a good UI.
But then, it will always blink on LO after 5 sec?
Thanks, gords 
PS: don’t remember very well, but that driver has low volt. warning or does it turns off automatically at, lets say, 2.8V so you can use it with unprotected cells without any problem?
Sashi, it's very similar to the UI Balder uses on the BD-2. It really does make sense once you use it a few times.
Pok, thanks for the link on the XIAOZHI.
But then, it will always blink on LO after 5 sec?
Thanks, gords
PS: don’t remember very well, but that driver has low volt. warning or does it turns off automatically at, lets say, 2.8V so you can use it with unprotected cells without any problem?
I think the low voltage warning is at 3v, yes you can use unprotected cells, you just have no over current protection ie dead short situation. I would prefer protected cells myself although I have just bought four unprotected Samsung 2800mah cells, I’m covered for fussy lights, I’ve just not found any yet, I have used one all week in a light on test (testing both cell capacity and light durability), that included extended time in a head strap as a head light - I’m not that worried, and that light did have a reflector shorting issue that I’ve resolved now.
Bottom line for me, ideally, good protected cells, a driver that has low volt cut off is a nice secondary protection but I’m unconvinced about it being the only protection, with the reflector short, I read 19a at the tail cap……think on that when saving a couple of dollars, a protection circuit would have tripped, as it was I could have had a nasty accident if I’d not found and dealt with the issue.
Tr 801 is small too 118mm
http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/trustfire-tr801-3mode-memory-led-flashlight-118650-p-5554
Thanks.
Not to be picky, but that’s a whole 4 fricken millimeters longer than the last two suggestions… 
Although the tr-801 is supposedly more meaty host - better able to deal with heat, as I don’t yet have one, I don’t know for sure.
If lengths of no concern, I’d go for a trustfire t2 (side switch host) fit a 20mm 3up xp-g2 nw emitter set up with optics and a 12 x AMC7135 ak47 driver (yep, its stacking time).
That’s one in the works, although substitute xp-g2 for nichia 219 hi cri….
Oh, one more thing. Any problems with battery fit? Does any 18650 fit with no problems? I was gonna choose between the palight and the EDC but it seems the palight has some battery fit problems.
Thanks sanka.
I have a keeppower 3400mah cell in mine, how much bigger would you like to go? :bigsmile:
Aha… :bigsmile:
Thanks.
I went to buy it though I don't need it and I cant log in. Is that good or bad?
I'll just reiterate... Do yourself a favor and don't get the Palight V60. The tap interface is really kind of a joke.
Thanks.
I think you can buy it without logging in, or is that not helpful?