measurements Ive seen from contactcr show LH351d duv goes down after shaving, by about duv –0.0020.
That puts the tint below the bbl after shaving. The shaved LED also gets about 10% warmer CCT…
fwiw long links that break, do work as you said, by copy and past
they can sometimes be made to work more easily, by using the Link button and attaching the link to a typed comment…
Thanks, repaired it 
I dont remember if the dome of a LH351D fits in this optic but that’s a good price for 2700K LH351D. I’ve used them combined with 5000K on several multi-emitter lights for very nice tint mixing.
It does.
Problem is a different one: The head is now glued. Really glued.
Yeah, just noticed the same with a raw aluminum one that I received today. 
Jon, there is a bit Green at low level when not shaved and Duv go above BBL?
Barry, are you able to machine brass? I wonder if a limited edition C01S in brass would be possible for something like $15. Without knurling, just a smooth finish.
In regards to Duv “Green” is only really noticeable around 3500K-4000K and higher temps
In warmer temps <3500K higher Duv begins to look more yellow than green
If you look at the below chart you can see. BBL refers to the black line in this chart. So the “rosy” color people like is mostly noticeable in that 3000-5000K spectrum but higher and lower than that and other hues may be more present.
well done
You think guys these from Sofirn are the same Bin Chromaticy of Digy-key tested Leds or you find difference at low current?
So you got SST-20 4000K from Intl-Outdoor in February? I asked Hank if it was FA3 bin, but didn’t get a reply.
Yes.
I have asked Barry before about a brass C01S (although I suggested extra deep knurling instead of smooth), and he answered that brass was not something that Sofirn could do. But things may change over time 
contactcr said:
“In warmer temps <3500K higher Duv begins to look more yellow than green”
good point
hard to see a big difference in tint at incandescent cct
it still helps when you offer duv numbers to compare sliced and unsliced
pic originally by contactcr, is a link to his
LH351D 2700K 90CRI thread:
shaved = orange sunset instead of lemon sunset? lol
the tint difference above and below the bbl, at 2700k, looks quite small
Stupid questions, but:
a) has anybody tried to use the driver of these C01S flashlights with 2xAAA cells?
b) what is the worst that can happen if I try to use the driver with the 2xAAA ? Fry it?
:cry: :confounded: :weary: :person_facepalming:
from most to least likely
driver melts and dies, and cannot be fixed
LED poof!
creates a short that ignites the batteries
and you cant find the fire extinguisher
there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers
Ahah, that’s what I thought 
Flashlight meltdown, at the end
I am just asking because I saw this post the use with 10440s (for a short amount of time). Knowing that:
a) this should be a 1.2-1.5V driver
b) it didn’t go completely “boom” when some people used it with a 10440 Li-Ion 3.7V
c) that 2xAAA will be at most 3.0V
I was trying to perceive wether I could/should move this driver to other host I have that takes 2xAAA, therefore - hipothetically - increasing runtimes (well, if it didn’t go “boom” throughout the way)…
I’ll see what to do meanwhile! :+1:
AFAIK having AAA in a 2S configuration will probably only result in all mode being brighter and not extra runtime as it is a boost driver.
I could be completely wrong though.
Hum, if that is the case, my point wouldn’t be totally missed out, but it would things less funny, as I do appreciate the lower “low” mode… :person_facepalming:
I just did a quick little test 1S vs 2S on two of my C01S lights.
The high mode is the same brightness on both 1x AAA and 2x AAA (within margin of error on my crude test setup).
The low mode on the other hand is more than 4 times as bright on 2 vs 1 AAA.
Thanks for your input on this Noir! Well, I guess it won’t worth the trouble trying to change the driver from one light to the other…
I’ll keep it as it is, both of them!
Thanks again :+1: