The easiest way is to make it so the tailcap spring retains the magnet, it is not coming out when the flashlight is assembled.
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I’ve tried several options. In my humble opinion in terms of quality and convenience they are arranged like this:
I use headlamp for camping. I want your new headlamp to have red light (not with filters but pure red with a led). Side button instead for top button would be ideal for a headlamp. Quick access to red light (single press or hold). My preferred fuel is 14500, but 18650 also works fine (18350\cr123 support with tube also is nice to have). I HATE the stretchy loops headband, snap fit in to C-clamp with o-ring to secure it work the best.
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- I kayaking at night in marathons. That’s why my headlamp is like this)))
- Stabilized driver. 3000K to improve visibility in fog.
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Also please look at Sofirn SP10 Pro - it still is considered as great light despite outdated LED and driver. Dual fuel 14500/AA Anduril light made it unique. But now we have Emisar D3AA 
So even you will update SP10 Pro with better driver/LED/AUX or made it headlamp equivalent it would be great!
I would like to see a company develop a headlamp purely for the home, concentrating on using it during blackouts for activities such as reading books, playing board games and cards, and doing things on the kitchen counter and such.
A headlamp with low lumens, lower lumens, and a moonlight setting and super long run time using perhaps a single AA.
With a catchy blackout/hurricane/storm name and catchy description for blackouts and emergencies identifying what it is, it could find a solid place in the market for every member of the family, wife, kids, grandma, dad, being regulated would be nice.
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Personally, I would be using a headlamp for either working on a car, working on small things like flashlights and knives, and for camping.
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Working on car: Need hi CRI, preferably in a 519a, and an option for UV to search for leaks.
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Working on small things: Need hi CRI and preferably something in a warmer, 519a 3000k-4000k range
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Camping: Need an option for a red light and preferably something in a warmer, 519a 3000k-4000k range.
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Wurkkos HD10 limited to the lower power levels? Current version is LiIon 14500 only, but a dual fuel is announced. The LiIon model has amazingly low moonlight (too low even for reading), 95CRI emitters and anduril.
Sofirn HS10 is not as dim on moonlight, but still pretty good for reading in the dark imo. 16340 though, I do not like that battery size.
- What do you use your headlamp for?
Camping and Urban exploration
- What functions do you want your headlamp to have?
Also come on moonlight at start up, sublumen mode, Anduril
- What kind of headlamp experience annoys you?
I despise memory mode
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What do you use your headlamp for?
-close-up work (installing a tent, looking for woods, finding stuff in a backpack…) -
What functions do you want your headlamp to have?
-100% pure flood, lightened switch for easy find in the dark, moonlight mode -
What kind of headlamp experience annoys you?
-Throwy. (never understood why you would need long range illumination for an headlamp), too many modes (4 levels and that’s it, no need for disco modes or Anduril), too heavy (no 21700 for me)
- What do you use your headlamp for?
Camping
- What functions do you want your headlamp to have?
3000k and below CCT. Nichia 519A emitter. Buck/Boost driver. Wide angle beam profile.
- What kind of headlamp experience annoys you?
Narrow beam and low Cri emitter
If it’s for the general public (NOT enthusiasts who it seems are already starting to demand stuff which isn’t neeeded or required for the general public)
Good but simple UI - on/low/med/ sustainable high (maybe turbo but personally don’t think it’s needed) - and or ramped
No internal tubes or Anduril
Good quality button and especially good quality clip (I hate clips, but many people who use a headlamp would for sure want a good one)
Choice of 3 leds cw/nw/ww
AA battery and maybe dual fuel ( but again for general public not really required)
A few nice colours of anodising
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Working on car, home renovation/plumbing, gardening, small work like soldering. The 4000K D25L is my most frequently used flashlight/headlamp; I love it.
High CRI, warm or neutral CCT (4000K or 5000K, not more. 4500K might be a nice balance), wide beam profile with smooth transition between hotspot and spill. Regulated output would be nice. Centered light (T shape) is preferable instead of right angle light (L shape) for a dedicated headlamp.
Large size, heavy weight, narrow beam with too strong of a hotspot, blinkies/strobes. Personally I don’t see a need for red light or UV, so I’d rather the focus be on doing one thing well.
Thanks for consulting users to inform your designs, and thanks for the giveaway @Sofirn !
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- Night running (up to 2hrs), at camping as general “workhorse” light
- 14500 form factor, compatible with Li-Ion and NiMH, stabilized driver, usb-c charging, high CRI emitter, wide beam
- narrow beam, visible PWM
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- I use my headlamp for painting mini figures or working on other flashlights.
- For my usecase, I would need it to be high CRI or at least easily swappable. Ideally a well-regulated driver to minimize the need to recharge.
- I don’t like headlamps that are too heavy since my head is sensitive to weights so the lighter the better.
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Thanks @sofirn for asking the community – and of course for the giveaway! 
Here are my answers:
Everything, from walking outside at night (medium-to-high lumens), to toilet trips (at very low or even moonlight lumens) when I wake up in the early morning and don’t want to wake up the wife, to working inside the house when I need better illumination (usually high lumens if for a few moments, or medium lumens for extended jobs).
For your reference, here’s my headlamp history:
- First was a Manker E03H II, but the manufacturer proved to be totally non-reliable, and moreover it doesn’t run Anduril;
- Then I switched to a TS10, which is what I mainly use to this day; yep, a straight, non-angled flashlight can work very well as a headlamp once you mount it in a suitable headband; I use my TS10 with this headband, and it works perfectly: by mounting it on the top/central loop, I can even adjust the angle by sliding it up & down the curve of my head; I it use all day, every day.
- Then I got a Cyansky HS5R in a GAW right here on BLF (thanks again @Cyanskyflashlight!); pretty good flashlight, but not having Anduril was a major no-no and I gifted it to family;
- I also got a Wurkkos HD15R – fantastic light, but due to not having Anduril it now sits in my wife’s bag.
- My backup light is a Wurkkos FC13 – I usually operate it in hand, but it also fits the headband I mentioned above so I also use it in place of the TS10 whenever needed/justified.
- What functions do you want your headlamp to have?
The more important & more used things my headlight (as well as all my other flashlights) need to have are, in order of importance:
a. Anduril
b. Anduril
c. Anduril (seriously, I won’t even consider buying a light without Anduril; everything else is negotiable, but not Anduril)
d. Flashing pads (so I can reflash its firmware easily), preferably following the @gchart/@thefreeman layout;
e. Capable MCU (ATTiny1616 at minimum, an AVR32DD like the D3AA from Hank would be even better;
f. AUX LEDs in the main optics, ideally RGB, but red is also acceptable; AUX LEDs in the switch if not feasible in the main optics;
g. Difficult-to-activate-accidentally switch, but also with a precise, clear click response (the TS10v1 switch is just about perfect in this regard);
h. Battery can be 14500 or 18650; not 21700 please (too big/heavy for my usage);
i. If 18650, a USB charging port, preferably with reverse-charging/powerbank functionality (so I can use it to charge eg my phone in an emergency); with a 14500, spare batteries are so small (and, for the powerbank function, capacity is so low) that an USB port is not useful nor justifiable IMO.
j. Good LED options, at least one with 4000K +90 CRI and slightlly negative DUV (no need to be of any specific brand/model – the no-name CSP LED that came in my TS10v1 was just about perfect. But people seem to just love the Nichia 519A).
k. an efficient driver like the @thefreeman one that comes with the D3AA would make such a light a must-have for me.
l. If possible, a secondary LED channel with true-red LED(s) would make it perfect (but that’s not a hard requirement by any way);
m. a good, easy-in/easy-out/light/firm headband if the flashlight is in angled format – but as I said, I would be perfectly OK with a non-angled/straight conventional flashlight to use as a headlamp – actually it’s what I’m using right now.
n. cost <$50 would be great, but it’s not mandatory – I would gladly pay up to $100 for such a light.
EDIT: as a very distant last, I would add being “dual-fuel” (ie, being able to be fed both 3.7V 14500 Li-Ions, as 1.2-1.5V eneloops/lithium primaries, and in a dire emergency, even argh alkaleaks). But that’s totally optional, and should be noted would come for no additional effort with an efficient boost driver (like, IIUTC, the one in the D3AA).
I don’t give a damn about body colors or materials – as long as there’s a black anodized-aluminum version, I would be happy.
- What kind of headlamp experience annoys you?
Nothing annoys me more than a stupid, idiosyncratic, incapable and inflexible UI. Have I told you that Anduril is a hard necessity for me? In case it isn’t clear, let me put it in just 4 words: NO ANDURIL, NO DEAL 
Besides that, having no flashing pads also annoys the heck out of me. And then the lack of the other functionality I listed above, in order.
We will collect your feedback to our R&D team. Please feel free to share your thoughts and ideas, and we wish you all the best.
This is great, I’m very happy to see Sofirn reaching out to us enthusiasts. And if I may add, Sofirn has a big opportunity right now to launch a revolutionary headlamp and turn over the tables on all other manufacturers. I hope you can make it happen.
Both would be great, but if you need to settle on a single CCT, I would choose 5000K or thereabouts.
–The weight of the headlight does not need to be too heavy, otherwise it will be a burden to wear on the head. For example, our HS20 received feedback that it is too heavy. For light source switching, I think click+click-hold would be more convenient.
I don’t use mine for running, just for hiking – so weight is not so much a factor (as long as it isn’t 21700-fed).
I think that if @Sofirn didn’t want to position this light for enthusiasts, they would not be asking about it here 
Oh man, that makes Baby Jesus cry But seriously – different strokes for different folks and all that, but I think the market is already flooded with non-Anduril lights and neither the market nor Sofirn needs another one.
The UI of the sp40 was pretty good. The only thing you need to change is to add a press and hold for moonlight.
And add a 1 lumen moonlight.
Type C.
2700 or 3000k.
Any and all of your future lights should be high Cri.
It needs a beaded lens for a very very very wide smooth beam.
Larger switch preferably on the side.
A quick release headband Mount would be preferable and if you can keep the clip on it that’s a whole lot better.
A long strong clip that can be mounted in either direction.
Not a two-way clip.
18650 3500mah
Springs on both ends.
At least a three or preferably four stage battery indicator.
It’s down to 3.7v I don’t want to leave the house with it. So I need to know.
Edit.
Based on the picture it looks like you’ve already got most of the design and choices figured out.
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Well, well… Just copy Skilhunts H300 head with side switch, no integrated charger, no T shape PCB, no inner shelf for led star, no grip on tube to reduce overall weight .Keep weight <50gr. Use popular TIR optics for manual replacement. Make buck or boost driver with simple UI with 4-5 main modes , separated firefly and turbo. High mode 3-4W, turbo 10-12W. Do not overpower turbo mode and so on … aand sale it for less price of skilhunt. Do it properly, don’t waist materials
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