Sofirn HS10 LED swap to 219b 3000K
Step by step photo album showing process to change the LED, including showing the tools and supplies used:
Link to HS10 First Impressions w stock LED
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Nice man !
Thank You TARTARA! 
Your kind words are very much appreciated 
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Nothing at all man, have a good one !
Nice neat soldering, wish mine looked like that! I can never get the wires to stay down, I seem to lack a suitable tool.
I gifted my HS10 instead of keeping it and swapping to a warm LED, I’m holding off ordering another in the hope the HS05 gets re-released, a ~2700k AA reading headlamp would be excellent.
I (wrongly) assumed all 219b had negative duv…? Is it only the sw45?
yes the sw45k has Much lower duv than other 219b, some sw45k have duv below -0.0100… the sw45 without the K are even less pink
the K bin is guaranteed to be below the BBL:
https://i.imgur.com/cbv3Hnk.png
but sw45k can still vary, quite a bit (there are different bins such as D200 and D220)… and they also vary even within the same bin:
https://i.imgur.com/sPL8j7R.jpg
I was disappointed by the duv of the 3000K 219b I put in this HS10. I do not usually see 219b values above the BBL. But the 3000K 219b duv is not much lower than -0.0030 ime
Here is another 3000K 219b, that has a tint I prefer, duv -0.0029:
https://i.imgur.com/K8UAxpw.jpg
and here is another 3000K 219b with Tint Duv of -0.0013 (I was disappointed, as Im hyper sensitive to neutral or yellow tint, it is a reason Im not excited by 519a…):
https://i.imgur.com/t4sMajw.png
tint variation is normal… LEDs are like snowflakes, each one is unique… LOL… ime they tend to vary within a range of about 0.0030 plus or minus…
Thanks for the kind words about my soldering… It is getting better, but still could improve. So far the two things that are really helping are, putting flux on the solder joint before applying the iron, and then cleaning off the used flux that stains the mcpcb, with isopropyl.
I can never get the wires to stay down
it can be tricky for me too… I use sharp tweezer to hold the wire (not the insulation), down on the solder pad, and try to press the wire flat to the pad with the soldering tip… or sometimes I use a tiny flathead screwdriver instead of the tweezers…
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Thank you for the information! I don’t recall learning about the ‘k’ identifying below BBL bin, I suppose CREE just use tint bins below the BBL for theirs?
Wonder what nichia do with the out of spec. LEDs that are too low duv… Seems there’s a niche market here for them (!).
Well, the manufacturers don’t produce for flashlights with one single LED.
They produce and bin the LEDs for lamps with multiple emitters, normal light bulbs, car headlamp etc…
Then everything evens out.
LED manufacturer: How many LEDs do you want to buy? Five?! Please come back when you need a full reel.
Flashlights are not the target market.
Probably not very many of those at all since they are harder to produce to begin with. Yellow and blue naturally want to make green, so achieving the “nice” tints or those farther below BBL isn’t easy. The yields of “low tint” emitters are far less than the rest. Those that are too far off end up in the wider bin orders as long as they still meet the range spec (i.e. 2- or 3- or 5-step bin/order codes). Getting nice tints is kind of a magic science, something that Nichia has always excelled at and put more focus into.
Just one reel? Idk for sure but I’d think you’d need to order wayyyy more than that if you’re ordering direct from manufacturer. Like, one reel from Samsung is 800 LEDs. The lighting fixture I grow with has >1000 Samsung LEDs on just the one fixture and it’s sold on amazon.
And many of these do seem to have flashlights as at least one target market. Almost all the sst/sft datasheets under “applications” list
-Portable Lights
-Bicycle Lights
-Work Lights
The lh351d datasheet has “hand torches” in that section…I mean those are flashlights. Not the biggest market but they’re acknowledging it’s one of them.
Jon, I’ll have to try that. I’m always trying to hold the wire by the insulation and its such a pain. I figured holding the actual wire would create a heatsink and draw heat away from the solder. Thanks for the tip!
Bob.
it does, I can tell because the tweezer tips get warm, Ive raised my iron from 300C to 350C… to make the solder melt more easily…
holding the wire I tend to split the insulation, which makes me unhappy…
There are tweezers with ceramic tips.
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Titanium tweezers limit the sink and solder won’t stick to them, either…can get those pretty cheap on ali (have to search a little to find normal ones that aren’t edc-fat-tip or super hair tips for fly wires). The ceramic interchangable tip models are decent, too, but the tips may be a bit fat for some work. Could also get a ti or tungsten solder pick and grind the tip a little to suit (or even used stubs of tungsten rod from a tig welding friend…). I usually use a pair of fairly thin-tip small hemostats but the ti tweezers are sure handy.
i feel like ceramic would be too fat as well. But I’ve never tried it myself. Could work.
Tungsten tweezers do exist. I used to have some. You can make your own out of the green TIG electrode or just buy the rod. Cost about the same either way.
They look liike this. Notice the warning on that page.
“TUNGSTEN IS AS FRAGILE AS GLASS AND WON’T WITHSTAND EVEN THE SLIGHTEST KNOCK OR BANG - FOR THIS REASON, WE WILL NO LONGER REPLACE BROKEN TUNGSTEN TWEEZERS”
They aren’t kidding. That’s what I say I “had” tungsten tweezers lmao. It’s the most fragile thing I’ve ever seen. Would not recommend.
Titanium is good. Ive been using whatever then I just wrap the tips in heat resistant insulating tape. Either kapton tape, unless that’s too slippery, then fiberglass tape, probably called wiring harness tape at the hardware store. No heat is sinking past that. Its fiberglass insulation in tape form. Something like 500x lower thermal conductivity than the bare steel or titanium
I now use a simple toothpick to hold the wire. I snip off the pointy end then file a V shape into it to straddle the wire. Position the exposed wire onto the solid solder blob amd hold it there, then apply the iron to the wire. The wire will heat up, in turn melting the solder blob underneath it.
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Ah, simple and expedient! Love it.
…I had almost convinced myself I needed Ti tweezers , now I’ll have to come up with another excuse 
I almost convinced myself to buy some neat looking ceramic-tipped tweasers because ‘think of all the times I lose my toothpicks on my messy workbench.’ Then I talked myself out of it, haha.
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Ha! Then it would become (when holding delicate components in place with one hand) ‘where the hell are those ceramic tweezers now, damn toothpicks everywhere!’