it’s a rebranded Astrolux EC06 (dunno who the manufacturer is), the only change I noticed is that the MCU is now a T1616 that Sofirn tends to use now instead of the T85.
I have the Astrolux version of this light (EC06) in 6500k and can attain 27,800lm at turn on with high-drain cells (Samsung 40T). Molicel P42A’s give me about 26,500lm at turn on.
Last year, I owned two EC06’s - one was by far brighter on turn on than the other (tested using the same cells in a controlled environment). I suspect there is a variance in build quality across the production run.
I found this light to be average, even with the “wow factor” of nearly 28k lumens at turn on…
Tiracova, with all due respect… I strongly suspect those numbers aren’t correct. The 50.2 has been tested extensively to reach a maximum 5700 lumens at high amperage. That said, 6 running at peak would not even reach 24,000 lumens.
There’s a wrench in the works somewhere.
Edit: Obviously my math skills need youthful vigor. Geesh! Well, I’ve applied all the shortcuts and swspped to the best FET I’m aware of and 21,300 was what new 40T’s managed. My lightbox is calibrated with Maukka test lights. Maybe it’s my wrench…
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Now you’re making me want to adapt it to an original Q8 driver and see what happens.
I built EC06 with 6 SFN55.2’s and according ceiling bounce lost some lumens. It also wants to desolder negative wires after mosfets if run for longer than 10 seconds. Those stock mosfets have pretty high resitance on lower voltages and SFN55.2 has low VF. That’s probably the reason for enough heat to desolder and lumen losses.
Sofirn and Mateminco are the two Astrolux OEMs that I know of - obviously in this case the EC06 is made by sofirn
I tried an old stand-by to further reduce resistance. I cut a disc out of copper to solder Berrylium springs on, bypassed the springs with 18 ga Superworm wire. Did a lot of work for 700 more lumens. But now it’s at 22,000 lumens.
It has occurred to me that this is also using 5000K emitters.
Pretty much all there is to do.
Wait…I’m not the electrician am I? Cuz that house would burn down for sure.
No obviously a thicker gauge is gonna be better lol.
Put it this way, I got the empty casing for a power tool battery right here that I took the cells out of last week. They were Samsung 20R’s, so you know, pretty high drain cells, 22amp max continuous. This was a Worx PowerShare battery, 5s1p. Worx makes a lot of outdoor tools, so this pack is intended for use in stuff like lawnmowers, chainsaws, leaf blowers… You know, high drain stuff. And theyll pull over that 22amp rating all the time. Just opened the pack back up and the thickest wire in there is 26awg. And they want like $65 for this
Less resistance, les voltage drop in the wires, higher voltage to the LED, more current.
I made a direct driver calculator a while ago : LED direct drive current calculator
Graphing Calculator - GeoGebra
Decrease Rflashlight (or Rbatt) and the current increase.
Yeah, and the EC06 is now discontinued, so it’s possible Astrolux had exclusivity but not anymore.
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I once was asked to help a custom made flashlight produce more output. The machining was exceptionally well done, but internally the man that made it literally used length and gauge to control output! It had two switches, one each for high and low. The high beam used about 8” of 22ga wire, the low beam had like 18” of 24ga! No driver, just the wire resistance for control.
Thinking about mixing the LED’s to get a more universal beam profile. As it stands there is a hot spot at close range but it disperses at any real distance (60-100 yds there is a wall of light)
I have SFT40’s, weighing how much the textured reflector will negate throw… yes, I know, output will fall greatly depending on whether I replace 2, 3 or 4 of the 50.2’s. Overall color will also suffer. These 5000K emitters are pretty decent, better at higher outputs but not horrible in the low region.
SFQ60’s might be interesting, have some on the way but am losing patience. Lol
Well we tried using a resistor but it got real hot.
LOL
There were even twisted splices in the wires, wrapped with black electrical tape.
Edit: I guess he lost the keys and “hotwired” it!
Lmao “hot wiring”.
Btw have you taken apart any of the SP36s?
I assume yes lol. Wheres the link to that.
The term “hot wire” is already taken for a different type of torch though 
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I have or have had the mini Q8 but don’t recall modding one. It’s one that they offer in good emitter choices that don’t really need any modifications.
Ah. I just wanted to see what the internals looked like without taking mine apart and whether they differ at all between the different versions. All the teardowns I can find are on the original version
Gee thanks Jeff, now I just had to go and replace my 36 Pro! 
Double checked at Sofirn to see if I wasn’t aware of a version and found a decent sale on the Pro, picked it up. Incorrigible I know.
The more compact triple 18650 size paired with four LH351D in 90CRI 5000K tint is just ideal as far as I’m concerned. Shipped, with cells and charging cord this is an excellent choice as a gift. (If you care enough about someone to give them $50!)
At a claimed 5600 lumens it’s tough to pass up. Will post on measured lumens… it’s US based shipped so I should see it this week. 
Thinking this one would really utilize the SFT40. 