What did you mod today?

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
11273

Playing with my Anakim X1, actually 600lm vs the touted 1600lm, but it’s got a decent intermediate-range beam, but it’s too fried-eggy for my tastes, so after stumbling upon some grainy diffusion film, I decided to smooth out the beam.

Ring in front holds the glass in place, unscrews easily, so just washed it thoroughly to have no oils, dust, etc., on it, applied the film, trimmed it, replaced the lens with the film on the reflector side, put everything back, and now it’s got a nice smooth beam.

11274

I reflashed Anduril 2 onto my Sofirn SC21 Pro, which came with Anduril 1.

Really happy about the result. Not only is Anduril 2 consistent with my other Anduril lights, the reflash gave the light 10x lower lows, plus LVP is added to the button light circuit.

I reflashed a version of Anduril 2 onto my SP10 Pro, to eliminate the blink at top of ramp. Love the result, NO Ramping Blinks.

and reflashed a version of Anduril 2 onto my Wurkkos TS10. Now the lows are 10x lower, the aux lights turn off when main LEDs are On, and the aux circuit now has LVP.

all thanks to gchart for selling me the programmer and wire harness for SP10 Pro. Also very grateful for all the time spent coaching me by PM to install all the software on my iMac. I also had help from zumlin, Adair21, and BruisedMonkey, who helped me find the right driver for my iMac. Thank you all for your time and support.

11275

I like your method to hold the pins in place. For years I have prepped the commands ahead of time and had to do everything with 1 free hand but I may have to give this a try!

11276

thanks!
fwiw, that pic is of an SP10 Pro, which has holes in the flashing pads, so the pins stay stuck even without clamping.

But for the TS10 it is really helpful to clamp the pogo pins to the pads, as there are no holes, and the pins can slip off the flashing pads, if only hand held. Potentially putting power onto the wrong pad and killing the driver.

Plus, at my age, with cataracts and shaky hands, trying to reflash holding by hand was a recipe for disaster. I can not see the pins or pads thru my bifocals, I have to wear a jewelers visor to see the pins are properly situated on the pads…

For the SC21 Pro, I did not have proper pogo pin spacing, so I soldered the wires to the pads.

That works really well, as long as I dont get the wires wrong, which causes the flashing process to fail… dont ask how I know…

And lastly, since reflashing involves at least 4 separate commands in Terminal on my iMac (ping, backup, erase, install), trying to copy paste all those, while holding the pins steady on the programmer, is a recipe for utter frustration.

Which is why Im so happy that after weeks and hours of screwing around with hand held pogo pins, I Finally Haz Success! :wink:

for an encore I plan to learn how to actually edit config files and compile Hex files… after I come down off Cloud 9 (why 9?)

… sooo thrilled to have Flashed my first Anduril lights!

11277

Nice! I was thinking about doing the same for the flood channel, but mine is really glued down, so i haven’t gotten around to it yet. In the meantime, i glued some zircon minus green just around the flood ring, and that’s improved tint enough to keep it as-is for a bit.

11278

I decided to make already crazy budget monster Astrolux EC06 even crazier by modifying it to use SFN55.2 leds. So I need board for 7070 leds and there being none, I made one myself from 0.5mm copper sheet.
1st. Phase:Cut templates

2nd. Phase: Test fit filed down pcb’s. Still some more filing to do.

3rd. Phase: Solder everything together on a hot plate. Beforehand reflector holes were reamed to 9mm. Reflector was then used to hold leds in correct orientation.

4th. Phase: Wire management. Not the easiest one.

5th. Phase: First full power test with Molicel P42A’s. Wires desoldered themself from driver because of heat. It was few pops and light went off.

6th. Phase: Cleaned the solder pads and added higher melting temperature solder. Everything back together and it works. Hasn’t desoldered again. Very bright and also has hotspot instead of pure flood.

1 Thank
11279

This is the kind of crazy stuff that hasn’t been done for a few years!

11280

#Haukkeli :+1:

That mod/post is OL Challenge worthy/ready.

11281

Nice! We want a beamshot!

11282

I was thinking exactly this :wink: :crown:

Well done Haukkeli!!!

And…beamshots, or it didn’t happen :smiley:

11283

I was thinking maybe I should participate in that contest, but I might still build something else. It’s past midnight before it’s dark enough for beamshots. Northern country problems. In summer there’s never dark and in winter there’s never light.

11284

With these skills and ideias, I guess you should really participate :wink:

Oh, I know , not easy to take some bemashots at this time of the year :expressionless:
It is probably a beast, though, shinning at the “darkest hours” of the day :wink:

11285

fwiw
Not all types of Beamshots have to be taken outdoors at night.

I take indoor beamshots during the day.

Here are some examples of different kinds of Beamshots, only the first example requires being outdoors at night, the other four examples are all indoor photos taken during the day:

1. outdoors at night

2. wall shots showing full beam profile, these can be taken during the day in a dark room or shady corner.

3. flat shots, this is by a window during the day, that is why you can see the flashlights, not just the beams. I find the gray soldering mat background works really well:

4. Corner shots (folded printer paper “wall”), also daytime

5. Composites w duv info, from a daytime shot, and measurements taken during the day in a dark room

11286

It’ll just be a white picture :smiley:

11287

this is a beamshot taken indoors during the day:

(if you cannot see my photos on BLF? here is a direct link https://i.imgur.com/5MXB2ZR.jpg)

11288

Haukkeli’s monster mod is probably more than 30 000lm, so I’m joking about the resulting picture being simply white if taken indoors.

Like Zeroair’s beamshots that are done with fixed exposure/aperture for comparison.

11289

I guess the problem is more the “night” thing, since in the Nordic countries by this time of the year there is light almost “day” and “night”, so there is no complete darkness :zipper_mouth_face:

But I’d say that a “close to dark” environment will allow and even better photo and will still portray how good it lights the “non-darkness” :wink:

11290

Unicorn 4000K 519a 10° TIR

Opple data:

Original MCPCB is pretty small:

Beam comparison:

Sunny TIR pattern visible on the wall:

11291

Copper S2+ with 15A Convoy driver and three Osram CSLNM1 and Astrolux S1 lighted switch

11292

Nice one Luna :+1: